Quattrodave
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Posts posted by Quattrodave
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5 hours ago, Stroudwater1 said:
Everyone seems to want an inverter nowadays but thats extra things to go wrong.
Agreed. Personally I don't have an inverter, everything on the boat (lighting, radios, TV, fridge etc) are all natively 12v. Phones, tablets & laptops all charge from a decent quality USB C 12v charger that really want much money (Anker PowerDrive III Duo if you're interested). I find it much more efficient (power, cost & simplicity) this way.
Solar panels are in my opinion defiantly worth it. Mine are currently charging at 8.46 amps, I recon batts should be fully charged by 11am
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Just a thought, not wishing to be rude, have you ever had a boat before?
If not maybe suggest standard LA batterys first, once you know how to look after them install LiFePO4...
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2 minutes ago, Paul C said:
On many locks, using the lock landing is pretty slow, there are better/quicker places to put the boat. So a boat on a lock landing really isn't a bother to me. Sometimes it takes a little more to wiggle round them, sometimes that involves 2800rpm of engine power.....
On a canal I'd agree with you but I spend most of my time on rivers, very often the lock landing is the only place to moor...
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Hahahahahaha oh I so wish it had the bottle to do that!!
Although if you'd have seen the state of the family and possibly more to the point, the boat at the water point, well, the boat may well have sank whilst I was moored along side it....
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What is it with people who moor on lock landings and water points when they're not using the lock or water point?!
Yesterday:
'Excuse me, are you using the water point?' (When clearly not!)
'What water point?' (The one with the massive sign behind you!!)
A couple of days ago:
'Hi, hello, yeah you, are you using the lock?'
'No, we're having some lunch.'
(So get off the lock landing dumb ass!)
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Hmmmm perhaps it's more a case of 'user error' as opposed to 'mechanical error'...
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I have a titan canopy, it's OK. Probably 5 years old now, I would guess I will need a new one in the next 2 years...
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5 hours ago, n-baj said:
I’ve just had my engine mounts replaced
Purely out of interest, how are you finding the new mounts? Has noise and/or vibration been reduced?
Any idea which engine mounts have been used?
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2 hours ago, Garethh said:
I'm very new to boating, hence all the questions, hoping to gain some knowledge from more experienced people on here.
As I see it there are 2 options:
Option 1.
You need to have very deep pockets, lots of time & tools and be highly skilled in many disciplines.
Option 2.
Walk away very quickly, if fact, run! -
23 minutes ago, HenryFreeman said:
Apologies if it came across as having a go! I wasn't at all. Badly formed words on my part. You're not wrong, just in this case I don't think there was anything I did to cause problems at the boat yard. Not arguing 👍
No it's absolutely fine, no need to apologise (although it is appreciated it's rather rare on forums 😁) I understand that tensions & frustrations may be running rather high to say the least! 👍
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1 hour ago, HenryFreeman said:
Either way, is there an excuse for the first boat yard taking 10 months to sandblast (and consequently fill my boat with sand) and put a single coat of paint on it, of which had to be removed entirely and started again by the second boat yard? I don't think there is. A shit job is a shit job and they did a shit job and took their time over it.
Easy tiger! I will re iterate 'Not wishing to say anyone is right or wrong here, but there are 2 sides to every story.'
Just to further that I can't and won't comment on your particular job because I don't know both sides and as thus it would be distinctly unfair of me to do so or draw any conclusions. I'm not trying to say you are wrong, I'm not trying to argue with you, you are quite entitled to your opinion, just like everyone else is entitled to their opinion.
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Not wishing to say anyone is right or wrong here, but there are 2 sides to every story.
A number of years ago i started doing some work for a new customer. The first time I was on site all they did was slag off the previous company... The alarm bells should have been ringing, I soon found out why... the customer was a right pain in the arse, constantly trying to micro manage, constantly telling me how to do my job, even tho they had no idea, constantly changing their mind then accusing me of not doing what they asked & always trying to argue prices... They were not customers for long...
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12 minutes ago, HanaE said:
How long roughly will the battery last once powered to full and with only a low volt fridge/freezer and low volt heater?
Massive subject there and one you will need to get to grips with pretty quickly. Please read and digest the 'Battery Primer' sticky post that will help you get an understanding of living with batteries...
Sorry really too many variables to answer your question directly. Ideally you'd need a power audit and need to know what, how many and battery condition, how much solar & your recharge routine...
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I too am thinking its air getting into the diesel lines. I had a similar problem it was a fault mechanical fuel pump. Not definitive but check your oil level, is it high??
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22 hours ago, gaetano said:
atm I also need quotes, as the purpose is to negotiate a discount before finalizing the sale.
Be a little careful there, if anyone asks me for discount, (unless they are a very good customer that I know well) get the 'that's the price, stop wasting my time, if you don't like it go elsewhere'
Good, well known trades people are sought after, I know it sounds backwards but you have to work with them, they don't have to work with you. Oh if you have a trade on site, don't be tight with tea, coffee & cake it's worth it's weight in gold!
I've had it before where a bloke tried to negotiate a discount after agreeing and after I purchased all the equipment and I was one site installing it... I knew then he was going to be a pain, removed the equipment and left...
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1 minute ago, Tony Brooks said:
But if Nick is right, he usually is, and it is simple to tap and decode the Smartshunt output on the Pi then his way is best. I have some reservations about the decoding simplicty though.
I quite agree, if it was a semi permanant install that's exactly how I'd do it.
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27 minutes ago, David Mack said:
But can you access the ends of the shunt part only, avoiding the added smarts.
Yes, just use the main terminals. A shunt is just a big ass resistor, all you need to do is measure voltage across the resistor and apply ohms law, amps = volts(your measurement)/ohms(resistance of your shunt).
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13 minutes ago, GUMPY said:
Thank you, I'd just found the same thing 😁
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48 minutes ago, Tony Brooks said:
The buzzer works that way in the same way as the charge and oil pressure warning lamps. It indicates that the buzzer has not failed each time the engine is started.
Yup thats a fair point. I suppose it also acts as a 'you've left the ignition on' reminder too...
50 minutes ago, Tony Brooks said:In any case, if the alternator did fail totally, the charge light would tell him.
And the buzzer would go off. Buzzer will go off on oil pressure failure, charge failure or overheat.
10 minutes ago, GUMPY said:A delay timer on the buzzer, say 30 seconds, Ignition on you have 30 seconds to start it before it sounds.
Dare I say a 555 timer would be ideal for the job
Ooooh thats a good shout!!!
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OK the back ground is that a good friend has a buzzer which goes off in the event of oil pressure loss, charging loss or over heating. Its really annoys him that the buzzer goes off when he's starting the engine. So I figured it would be easy to only have the buzzer active when the engine was actually running. But being a mechanical diesel there are no electronics to take a 'running' feed from so now I'm a little stumped....
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I'm trying to think of a way to detect if a mechanical diesel engine is running, originally I was just going to use the alternator output but that would rely on the alternator working and belt intact and not slipping. Ideally needs to be robust and reliable. I did think about putting a hall sensor on the flywheel but wondered if there was simpler solution??
Thanks
Dave
Edit
Also thought about a VR sensor on the flywheel which could be triggered by the teeth but that would require more complex driver circuitry...
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It would all depend what type of VPN is being used, different types use different ports, some of which can't be blocked. Ok to be accurate you could block them but websites then wouldn't load... I often use SSL VPN as it gets round VPN blocks...
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2 hours ago, Bargebuilder said:
Not sure about the output of your Morco, but my F11e had to have a 15mm pipe dedicated to it
Crikey! How much gas does the thing use?!
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More of this would be amazing (the chasing down not the riding)
5kg Patio Gas Cylinder
in Boat Equipment
Posted
Yes, as I understood it, 'Patio Gas'is a really expensive way to purchase gas...