

Quattrodave
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Posts posted by Quattrodave
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I'm not adding an NRV. The current setup has an internal tube from the top of the fresh water tank to the bottom with an NRV at the bottom of the tube. Then externally to a gauze filter, pump, accumulator, square d pressure switch and on to taps / boiler etc...
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Afternoon all,
Quick question, is it normal or even needed to have a non return valve at the bottom of the water tank pick up tube?
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@DucksAreFaster I would assume they wouldn't have been built with a weed hatch you can't remove... I take it you've tried swinging the steering either left or right see if it can get clearance...
Any chance of some pics of the offending area?
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@wouldiwere123 Any chance of a photo of the inverter and surrounding area please....?
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Yet again, another post open to interpretation and misunderstanding.
If we had decent, full & clear facts from the outset it would have made it much easier and quicker to respond appropriately....
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I'm not sure Tesla's come factory fitted with indicators or dipped beam headlights...
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Yes I could just laminate it but the ones the EA used to supply were then self adhesive on the outside so you could stick it to the inside of your window... They were pretty smart pouches...
The closeest I've found are 'self seal laminating pouches' or 'cold laminating pouches' but they arn't adhesive on the outside.....
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not any more, they won't even print your registration for you 🫣
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Weird question.... does anyone remember those self adhesive plastic registration holders that the EA use to supply a few years ago... Any idea what they're called and where I might be able to get some...??
Thanks
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What are you trying to achieve and on what device??
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My guess would be 4800
Although I do wonder what your trying to do & with what device...
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On 10/02/2025 at 14:58, Alan de Enfield said:
You can get XL (25") and XXL (30") shafts but the are horrendously expensive and are designed for the monster 500+ hp engines.
If you are planning to steer the outboard(s) 'by tiller' you really need to have the engines and 'pivot point' above the stern of the boat, or you are going to need a complex arrangements of universal joints.
Or, as has been suggested, clamp them onto the existing tiller and maybe remove the actual rudder blade.
Last year I accidentally (just don't ask🤦🏻♂️🤦🏻♂️) purchased a Tohatsu 25HP 4 stroke extra long shaft outboard. Bloody nice emgine BTW... if you can wait till the weekend I can send you @Dom Hopking measurements and part numbers if you're interested??
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Have a look at melloronline.co.uk they sell lots of diesel heater parts.
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Personally I remove the crappy tails from devices (where available) and replace them with tails and power connectors of the required spec. I find it makes a much neater, cleaner install. I will also use tinned cable wherever possible, it is however more expensive but I feel the upgrade is worth it...
Hopefully the OP has calculated the cabes for 'the round trip' not just 'to' the device...
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IMHO surveys arnt worth the paper they're written on!! Read the small print, for everything listed there is a 'get of of jail' for the surveyor... If i couldn't see it, not covered; if i didn't see it, not covered; if i got it wrong, not covered, if i just plain forgot, yup you guessed it not covered...
Its all well and good someone saying its a good boat but if there is zero comeback you don’t really know....
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Ive just been reading my insurance, by my understanding my boat can be used by any 'competent' person whom I give permisson to... It however does not cover hiring of the boat.
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Dont use duct tape, use green house repair tape, dry and clean with meths before applying, something like this:
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Perfectly feasable to make any diesel heater BSS compliant, safe & reliable, are you planning on diy install? Be aware if its an automotive unit the voltage cut in/out settings are different.
Have a search on the forum, definitely a thread where I listed required parts and links....
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My money would be on the fridge or a bilge pump, the type that turn on momentarily to test the weight of water in them 🤷♂️
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1 hour ago, john cowie said:
However I am having difficulty actually getting any useable power out of it.
You won't, they are pathetic.
Even good, well designed wind turbines produce surprisingly little power for they're size and are surprisingly noisey...
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The only drill bits we buy for the workshop are 'Dormer' use a decent cutting compound, personally Temaxol, slow speed with plenty of pressure.
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2 hours ago, SiFi said:
I did not want to pay the premium you have to pay if you get a dealer to identify their equivalent.
Riiiight.......
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1 hour ago, LadyG said:
the last guy I had on board said it would take him an hour to identify what was happening at the moment
I think he underestimated that, I think it would have taken longer, but he was open and honest with you.
1 hour ago, LadyG said:me, I just turn off each isolator (plenty to choose from) in turn to find out what's happening.
Yeah, that'll tell you everyting you need to know won't it... 🤦♂️
1 hour ago, LadyG said:There is a diagram somewhere but I've never been asked about that.
That's because it will cause more confusion than it solves... Have you added to the diagram any changes you've had done?? Boat electrics are generally ripped up, modified and altered and re-layed so many times over the life of the boat its usually a complete mess. Finding the cause of a problem can be a nightmare!
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Also you've guages are probably so wildly inaccurate they'll cause more more confusion than they solve, by your own admission you were reading one backwards!!
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Oh great, more stuff the EA is trying to away without doing... Just because you call something by a different name, doesn't mean its function has changed...
Getting really fed up with the EA doing less and less and blaming the problems on everyone else...
I was in Brampton Lock 2 months ago, there were contractors there supposedly doing repairs, they spent the entire time running around like 5 year olds throwing cement balls at each other...
Water tank pickup non return valve.
in Boat Building & Maintenance
Posted · Edited by Quattrodave
In theory I'd agree with you but depends on the pipe work level and where the leak is... you could end up with the syphon effect and the tank will still empty its self or semi empty its self.....
But yes I still prefer a top take off....