Quattrodave
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Posts posted by Quattrodave
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39 minutes ago, PaulJ said:
SSA seems to be somewhat broken at the moment , at least on the G.Ouse.
Locks have Yellows boards on them but noone seems to have had any emails, txts etc.Even my Teamup was showing Reds until today when it miracously back dated itself to the 10th!
For the last 3 months published data on the Great Ouse seems to be all over the place, levels reading really high when they're pretty normal etc... Also saw it the other way, data said normal but water was over the bank and racing past....
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54 minutes ago, David Mack said:
Has anyone suggested that the prolonged failure to get Keadby sliding bridge sorted should mean that Network Rail is told to divert all the trains so the canal can be kept open for boats?
With all the strikes and delays on the trains my bet is that no trains would actually need the sliding bridge...
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This is sounding much harder work than it should be... A number of solutions spring to mind...
1. As Tony said, drill straight through and use wood screws into battens behind.
2. As a previous plan, pop rivets, use blind stainless rivets, drill straight through to the correct size & hire or borrow a battery or air pop rivet gun.
3. As again previously mentioned, tap and machine screw. Drill straight through with the correct drill for chosen tap. Most battery drills have screw driver torque setting with is great for tapping, use Temaxol for drilling and tapping.
4. Rivnuts, again you'll need to drill straight through to correct size first, squeeze in rivnuts wind in machine screws.
5. Nuts, again drill straight through but you'll likely need somone else in the inside to hold the nut and wind in machine screws....
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3 hours ago, GUMPY said:
On Loddon Tol used some other type of more solid stuff which was infinitely better.
Out of interest, do you remember what you used?
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Why do want to stare at the mud & trolleys?
I'd have thought a camera and a screen would have been much cheaper and safer...
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A peugeot engine I worked on recently had to have the tach sensor screwed in a specific amount to geta stable reading. With engine running I wound it in by hand till second person shouted the rev counter was working IIRC I went a further 1.5 turns before it was stable, then tightened the lock nut...
I believe to test with a multi meter you'd need it set to AC. Personally I'd use the tach sensor over alternator, once working would be accurate and reliable...
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Samsung do they're own repairs and they will come to you. I had a phone repaired a few months ago after I dropped and it broke the screen. Came to me where I was working that day, the little guy sat in the back of his van, stripped and re built the phone in just over an hour... IIRC it was a little over £100
Edit: but yours should be under warranty if its not deemed damage...
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I used lino on my bathroom/ shower ceiling, water proof, hard-wearing and wipe clean...
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On 13/03/2024 at 11:32, 19Granny66 said:
I'm just looking for honest opinions.
My first thought when I saw the pictures was 'Which nob designed that, and which nob built it...'
1 hour ago, MtB said:The whole thing is a money-wasting job creation scheme dreamed up by that idiot Prescott.
The most honest sentence I've read in a long time, well said!!!
On 13/03/2024 at 19:01, magnetman said:All life that has ever existed on earth is and was solar powered.
Until relatively recently this was the general consensus, but hydrothermal vents were discovered thousands of meters under the sea supporting complete eco systems cut-off from everything else. TBH the organisms that live there are often referred to as extremophiles due to the environment they thrive in previously though unable to support life....
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7 hours ago, Adam1991 said:
anyone know what needs to be swapped out to make it a compliant install with bss?
Installed a number of these, keep the heater unit it's self bin everything else. Start by remaking positive and negative in the wiring loom with decent spec cable & decent connector.
Marine fuel pipe:
Fuel filter with tap:
https://www.melloronline.co.uk/Heater_Installation_Accessories_/912/Webasto_Marine_Fuel_Filter.html
Exhaust pipe:
Extra exhaust lagging:
Skin fitting:
Mount:
Hot air pipe:
That's just a basic install, you'll also need some way to get the diesel out of the tank (usually a stand pipe), hot air pipe lagging and adaptors...
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9 hours ago, IanD said:
To go with what router -- 4G or 5G, 2x2 MIMO or 4x4 MIMO? What's your budget?
As a rule 5G antennae cost more than 4G and 4x4 MIMO cost more than 2x2 MIMO, but in both cases you get either better coverage or higher data rates for the extra money -- assuming there's a 5G signal where you are. However a decent external 4x4 MIMO 5G antenna (e.g. Poynting or Panorama) is likely to cost more than £200... 😞
https://www.3grouterstore.co.uk/product-category/5g-antennas/4x4-mimo-5g-antennas/
Thanks for your reply, that's a fair comment, I should have added some detail there... I'm currently using an Inhand IR302 4G router, some models have 2 cellular SMA connectors but mine only has one. Currently has 1 tiny cellular antenna but wouldn't mind upgrading it if possible, I'd quite happily spend £80 ish but no idea what I'm looking at when it comes to 4g antenna. Granted it's s not the fastest router in the world (although better than my smart phone) but so far very reliable & stable, natively runs from between 9 and 36 volts with very low power consumption...
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Cheers Tony, TBH after Internet searching it was down to the MT3 or an Ultraflex unit, both around the same price. A friend swears I should buy a Kobelt unit but at £1300 they can go swing 🤣
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Can I ask what external antennas you recommend. Any companies you'd recommend to purchase them from??
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Afternoon all,
Working on the project boat today. I've taken the morse mt2 control apart as it's stiff, notchy & generally feels awful and that's without any cables connected 😁
There looks to be loads of wear on all the parts, one of the forward dogs is so badly worn that it misses forward gear half the time... Anyway doesn't look to be any service parts available so was looking to replace it with the Morse MT3 but then wondered if there was anything better available??
I don't mind paying more for better quality parts...
Thanks
Dave
Edit:
I've already ordered replacement teleflex cables so they will be brand new...
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Like you've already been told, speak to Lancashire Rotating Electronics.
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You need to calculate the guage if wiring using maximum ampage length of run and acceptable voltage drop. Most people vastly under estimate 12v wiring. Give us an example of what you want to power and how long the cable run is...
I was going to carry on but BEngo beat me to it 😁
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thanks guys 😁
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Cool, so shrader valve at the top (water inlet at the bottom) with flexable pipework. As close to the pump as possible? does it matter if higher or lower than the pump??
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5 minutes ago, blackrose said:
I don't know what you mean by "inlet at the top of bottom"? Doesn't your accumulator only have 1 port?
Yes only 1 port, does it matter which way up i mount it, inlet pointing up or inlet pointing down?
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Afternoon all,
Currently in the process of re fitting the galley. I'm moving the fresh water pump and pressure accumulator. What the past practice for mounting the pressure accumulator, inlet at the top or bottom, above or below the water pump..??
Thanks
Dave
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I'm really confused by this thread. Is the title a question or a statement? Is there actually a question posed??
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37 minutes ago, Tony Brooks said:
Diesel knock can sound very like a rattly engine, so when were the injectors last overhauled?
Both the injectors and pump were overhauled last year.
37 minutes ago, Tony Brooks said:When were the valve clearances last adjusted? An engine that old may well have wear holes in the rockers, so they may needs adjusting by using a DTI (or patent clearance adjuster).
Valve clearances were last adjusted in the spring (9 months ago) using usual feeler guages and the opposite cylinder rocking method, never used a DTI...?
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To be honest that's a fair argument. I wouldn't want anything with comon rail or a turbocharger.
It's a bit on the noisey side, a bit on the rattley side and does blue smoke a bit... but its oil pressure is OK, it does hold fuel pressure and starts on the button...
You're quite right, I could spend a hell of a lot of money and really be no better off 😁
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Thanks guys,
Sorry probably should have said the boat in question is a project boat 30' GRP cruiser with an outboard leg & is currently on a river.
6 hours ago, Tracy D'arth said:Maybe time to go electric and beat the rush?
Somthing i have thought about and i don't think would be too difficult but charging would be a major issue!!!
19 hours ago, Bee said:there are many automotive engines that can be marinised, VW, Peugeot, Ford, Mercedes, most manufacturers have a 2 to 2.5 litre diesel in their range somewhere. Thing is that to get a bit more power you will probably need to change the prop and more bits and pieces as well as the plumbing and you might get cooling problems with more power too. Personally I would stick with the 2.2 if it runs OK
One of the engines ive looked into is the Ford Transit 2.5DI (banana) engine... Not too worried about all the plumbing...
Juust wondered if there were any reasonablly priced engines out there that ive over looked, somewhere around the 70hp mark i think would do nicely....
Thanks
Dave
Building a Category C narrowboat!
in Boat Building & Maintenance
Posted
What ever you build / have built is going to be a compromise, my guess is a massive compromise but hey, what do I know.... Hire a marine architect and pays your money... TBH you're gonna need one to get it's certification...