Tracy D'arth
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Posts posted by Tracy D'arth
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3 minutes ago, Tracy D'arth said:
If it is a fuel tank it needs to be certified fuel hose. https://www.advancedfluidsolutions.co.uk/18mm-d-nitrile-rubber-fuel-hose-tubing-34-breather-pipe-2118-p.asp
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If it is a fuel tank it needs to be certified fuel hose. https://www.advancedfluidsolutions.co.uk/18mm-d-nitrile-rubber-fuel-hose-tubing-34-breather-pipe-2118-p.asp
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Thanks for that info. I always considered that lift pump to be a puny affair, this confirms it. With only less than 10" of lift its a wonder that it ever copes with a near empty conventional counter fuel tank. Perhaps this is a cause of the occasional post on here about Beta trouble bleeding fuel lines and engines cutting out.
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Some of mine have been from Royal Mail vans!
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4 hours ago, christiaan said:
Does anyone know if this is still the same with the 60/40 split? Is there a list of marinas that operate by accepting your own decleration? I l live on a wide beam that stays put so only use it for heating and not water but the marina insist on 60/40 even though I haven't moved in 2 years I've had the boat.
any info welcomed.
Where? UK? Europe?
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If you cut up a used filter, 99 times out of 100 you will find not much in it other than oil. I would have no qualms using the smaller filters providing they are changed every oil change.
Even then I reckon you could use them twice as I always do with the larger cans. Besides it probably filters better with a bit of sediment closing the paper pores.
I always have a neodymium magnet on the can to trap steel dust. Perhaps it does nothing but it costs nothing either.
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Just now, blackrose said:
After all that I ended up with the wrong belts. The ones I took off were toothed and the ones I ordered and sent to me were plain. I assumed the SPA reference number would specify everything but apparently not....
The eBay seller has agreed that I can return them, but why is it I always end up doing everything twice, even when I think I've asked all the right questions? 🫤
Always use cogged belts on alternators because of the small pulleys.
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21 minutes ago, Tony Brooks said:
So true, but as long as you know the filter numbers, bargains can be had from boatyards. I needed a new filter for the Bukh while we were on our summer cruise so I called in at a well respected yard not far from Fradley Junction and asked if they had one - they did at a price. I then say they also had a BMC1.8 one that was far cheaper. Knowing both engines use the same filter, guess which one I bought. The Bukh one was in Bukh branded box, while the 1.8 one was a generic Fram filter.
I never buy anything from a marina or chandlers unless I cannot find the item elsewhere. I do not begrudge them a profit but most prices are just cheeky and extortionate. I buy filters for popular engines in 10s from trade auto outlets like The Green Sparkplug Co in Middlewich where you get great service and sensible prices.
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4 minutes ago, IanD said:
If that's the case then you'll find out at the first lock that you need to do things differently to "normal", and change to opposite-side-first -- as you say, this is an exception to the rule, but one that might well apply to the OP since they mentioned the T&M.
And there are some broad locks where neither seems to work and the boat gets pushed across whatever you do... ;-(
Big Lock in Middlewich is a classic for anything can happen. The hire boats first day out have a high old time at this lock.
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Whilton's other site is Venetian Marine in Cheshire, same applies, you can view as many as you like. A lot depends on where you are based.
2 minutes ago, Alan de Enfield said:Corrected that for you !
Unfair Alan. Many do and have had good experiences of buying from them. Its only the bad ones that get talked about.
I have bought from Whilton and have no complaints but it is alway buyer beware wherever you buy.
I do not like the unanswered question of ownership that sometimes comes up with Whilton though.
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Your sealed system has zero pressure. It would look to have a red expansion vessel and a tap for filling with a hose connected to the water supply from your pump adjacent to that gauge. The photo is a bit close to be sure.
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BMC 1.8D sump oil capacity including filter was quoted as 8.24 pints which is 4.68 litres. I use 5 litre cans and save a little for topping up later.
But there are 3 designs of sump with differing capacities.
Unless you have a very odd or very damaged sump, you are not getting all the old oil out.
Have you tried draining from the sump drain plug rather than pumping (presumably by sucking from the dipstick tube) which may not be emptying the sump?
Your dipstick could be wrong or the tube in which it sits could be the wrong length, I have seen many that have been changed.
How long is your dipstick from the full mark to the top of the tube when it is installed?
Your Mann, Fram and Crosland numbers for the filter are correct. There are many equivalent filters.
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1 minute ago, Manxcat54 said:
Update on the state of affairs, so after having the guy flame cut the old pump out toilet tank out, I spent 4 hrs shovelling you know what out of it (not nice) then I put some sawdust and flakes in (they were once for my chickens, but I got rid of the buggers) so they came in handy, I let them do the work, then today I used a tough scraper and got it virtually down to steel, just a sort of glaze left, but don't forget, this tank is an integral part of the hull, it was welded on all sides to the base plate, so in this area it will be 1/4" thick tank plus whatever the base plate is or was (I really should have checked that with my ultra sound before I painted) anyhow I have absolutely smothered it in red oxide, that can be let to dry for a day or so, then I can begin to clean the area up, get the base plate painted, new woods on the cross members, and then a bit of floor installed.
That area of baseplate will be the best pickled bit of steel in the boat!
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1 hour ago, Jen-in-Wellies said:
If you are planning to be on your boat in winter, don't underestimate how cold the floor can get. There is no insulation, only steel, concrete and a bit of wood between your feet and the canal that's hovering around 0C. I have a reputation for being cold resistant, wearing sandals on bare feet through much of the winter, but I notice the cold striking up through the non carpeted sections of my boat floor.
A scientific point, the floor will always be at around 4 degrees C or higher as will the water under the boat unless you are in ice as thick as your draught.
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1 hour ago, cuthound said:
I'd heard that Danboline is no longer as good as it used to be, just after I repainted my engine hole and lockers with it last year!
The original Danboline had lasted 16 years before speckles of rust broke through, so hopefully my repaint will last something similar and easily see me through the boating days left to me.
I too have found it not as good as it was, but then I do go back a long way when paints had some body in them and you could not clean brushes in water!
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Which ever rivet puller you use, stick a thick foam pad around the head. You will be glad you did when it jumps and narrowly misses your paintwork/glass.
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The current is not going to make much difference in your speed out and back, the canal is busy at that time of year.
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Its a Supertap. The washer is on a jumper that is also the splash preventer vane. You replace the whole jumper assembly. Where you could buy one needs research.
It comes apart by undoing the back nut above the handle which then unscrews off the stand pipe, releasing the jumper.
I will see if I can find you spares.
Try here https://www.taprefurbishment.co.uk/supataps-supa-taps/ Or ebay of course.
Or here https://www.diydoctor.org.uk/projects/repairing_a_supatap.htm
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C&RT have told me that all mooring agreements are cancelled when a property changes hands. New owners have to apply.
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From experience rivets are too hard to pull, they squash whatever seal is used and are too permanent. Ally ones will corrode away, steel will rust, stainless take massive power to pull.
Tapping the holes for stainless round cap allen heads is the way to go.
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With that design of vent in the rail you get massive condensation in the steel tube! Many of them rust away badly.
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Where is the tank vent?
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Almost certainly you do not own the canal bank. There is generally an access strip of 6' or so that C&RT have rights to, they will consign you a yearly lease so that you can use this land, no building allowed, but they always have access rights. Last I heard it was £150 pa with £100 admin fee for setting up.
If you moor a boat there they will demand that you register and pay a fee of 50% of the local mooring rate, there is an admin fee too.
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Faced with unstable cuttings, I cannot understand why the chanel is not dug out and large concrete pipes dropped in to form a tunnel. Tow path not required, one way working but a simple solution. Then the pipe could be covered and the land above sold for development.
A perfectly serviceable tunnel was made in Stoke-on-Trent whilst the bypass was reconstructed and it worked well.
Valves
in Boat Building & Maintenance
Posted
Peglers ball valves, the quality is far and away better.
Buy cheap rubbish, expect problems. Gate valves have no place on a boat unless as balancing valves on a heating system, they never close properly.