TheSaintlyOne

So the project boat is progressing gradually and all the little engine niggles are gradually getting sorted. The biggest area of concern appears to be rust!!! The well deck appears to drain under the cabin floor down to the back of the boat where it is pumped out. This seems to be a bit of a stupid design!!! But as I understand not uncommon. The rust itself scrapes off easy and appears to be worse at the front of the boat where the shower was also previously located couldn't see any sign of a sump tray when the old shower was removed??? So the plan is to scrape off the loose rust treat with Aqua Steel (if it works on oil rigs) and paint over with something suitable - suggestions welcome. Has anybody had welded in a new well deck floor to prevent this problem in the future so that the water just drains over the side rather than down through the boat ?????

So obviously priority is to get a thickness test on the Hull but noticing in the area that used to house the shower/sink area the steel is particually flaky. But appears there may have been some sort metal sump tray/liner that has rusted away as the flakes are quite large in so much as that they peel away to leave the main cross beams looking completely in tact and a solid floor underneath. Was this a way of building dumps when the boat was made in the 70s or do I likely have a thickness problem. Rest of the bottom is bone dry

Yes as I understand it the well deck is not solid so the water that enters channels down to below the the stern deck where it is cleared by the bilge. I suppose the problem is in old boats the engine bilge below the stern deck gets oily filthy and its no longer just rain water getting chucked overboard. I have two options really as I understand it. 1) to channel it into a pipe overboard or to seal the well deck floor and create drain holes as someone on here did.

I think most of the water is coming in via the well deck design which allows water to drain back towards the engine bilge.

The noise is only present when engaged, in neutral it sound like I guess it should, well similar to my diesel transit connect.. same in reverse. Not sure on the gearbox make Not sure about the rest tbf I posted a vid of the boat on my Facebook below that is the sound!!! https://m.facebook.com/story.php?story_fbid=10163141063840389&id=621550388

So a weekend of Discoveries on my new 48ft Project Boat. In awnser to a previous query the boat has a suitable lip on the frame between the steel hull and the Fibreglass coated Marine Ply Top so no worries about leaks and she is altogether a dry boat. She does have one of those deep well deck thingys that allows water to drain back towards the engine bilge area. Rather than over the side. So on stripping out the two old flimsy bulkheads and bath Fittings and a couple of soft floor boards (I will be replacing the entire floor with 18mm something or other. Reccomendations welcome) I discovered that there is some flaky rust below the balast slabs . Niw im not too worried about this apart from the possibility of more crushed fingers another discovery concrete slabs are very heavy I plan to lift the slabs in sections, clear the flaky rust with ????? And in them apply bilge paint and lay the new floor. So what is your suggestion for the treatment and the bilge paint. I saw Bonds Primer mentioned somewhere is it any good. ?????

So the BMC 1.5 on my new 48ft Narrowboat Project is running well apart from a little issue with a loose coolant hose now replaced. But the prop shaft when engaged makes a loud noise. Like a constant grinding sound I thought the engine was just really loud when moving until I had to pass another fellow boater and engaged neutral and the BMC sounded like a typlical diesel transit. Any ideas what the noise might be and the best way to rectify it.

Yes you are correct about the licence being the same but the point is you can apply for a licence as a continous cruiser which you have to state when you apply and follow set guidelines https://canalrivertrust.org.uk/enjoy-the-waterways/boating/buy-your-boat-licence/continuous-cruising I woukd suggest its because by its very nature with a constant cruising licence you do not have a fixed address. As you are required to constantly be on the move. If I was you o would cov3r it with some form of home based income selling wares or doing odd jobs here and there. If your not fit for work how are you fit enough to move a boat. There are plenty of jobs about the difficulty on a cruising licence is securing a mobile occupation something I'm dwelling on for when I finally decide what to do when the boats complete.

I woukd suggest its because by its very nature with a constant cruising licence you do not have a fixed address. As you are required to constantly be on the move. If I was you o would cov3r it with some form of home based income selling wares or doing odd jobs here and there. If your not fit for work how are you fit enough to move a boat. There are plenty of jobs about the difficulty on a cruising licence is securing a mobile occupation something I'm dwelling on for when I finally decide what to do when the boats complete.

Of course there is a continous cruising licence what are you on about.

So what 12v fridge would you reccomend to a new canal boat owner. I'm constant cruising so needs to be run off available generated power ie Engine/Solar

If enough rain water enters the boat it upsets the balance of the boat and the boat gets overladen and sinks but tbf it is easily avoided by fitting a few automatic bilge pumps which will kick water out before it becomes a problem

That was Third Party Only. I guess if that's the case it will have to have a survey but I was under the impression a survey is not needed for a boat on third party as they are not insuring the boat rather you as a boat user against collision etc I will look into it. The boat will be coming out for blacking in the new year anyway so can do it then if needs be.

Thanks everyone went with Craft Insure as insure4boats seemed to want a survey regardless. And as it's a stripped out project boat I would only be getting a survey done on the Hull.. £8.99 per month

Yes you remember correctly. Thanks for clarifying that. Third party it is then for now.

Need to insure my 48ft Narrowboat Project that will be on a continuous cruising licence starting on the Grand unio in London and initially spending time moving eastwards to the river lea Any Reccomendations ???? Also what cover should I go for third party or Boat (Hull & Machinery) and third party Any info greatly recieved

Hi everyone. How much in a ball park figure kind of way is it to get a name and simple picture of a playing card painted on the side of a narrowboat in London. I want a white Ace playing card with a stick figure and the name "The Ace Of Knaves" below it in an arc. Boat Top is green painted Marine Ply and will be the background to the whole design if that makes sense Can you guess what it is yet ???

Great thankyou I will give them a try ?

What boatyard????

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/18MM-PHENOLIC-PLY-8FT-X-4FT-SHEET/392424292365?hash=item5b5e4f800d:g:FkIAAOSwpCFcbHTd I came across this stuff whilst searching around for buffalo board anyone know it it appears very weather and water resistant and hard wearing.

What's the best product to seal the edges

Thanks do you know where I could get it

Hi everyone noticed the Cockpit Boards in the cruiser stern over the engine bay are starting to feel a little bit weak and need replacing. Now I presume this has to either be done with marine ply or osb3 but I presume as they will be subjected to the elements they will need to be coated treated painted etc but with what abd how Im more used to dealing with saltwater elements. Somebody mentioned another option of using diamond cut is this viable.obviously I need access under all boards so they cannot be welded on ?

Thanks for clarifying I presume it fits snug alleviating to some degree the food drop issue

Thanks everyone is there a particular reason not to put a cooker hob in front of a window on a narrowboat. There will be no extractor and the window gives the best location in terms of positioning base units