TheSaintlyOne
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Posts posted by TheSaintlyOne
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1 hour ago, ditchcrawler said:
Here is one with a radiator and fan, the thread is live at the moment
As the OP The issue with this system and overheating seems to be that it was loosing water and coolant from a poorly attached hose the black one over the top of the engine The fan mentioned comes on when the engine gets hot to cool the engine and it does work. The system will be available at the end of August as we are swapping out our engine.
Here is another picture of it
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1 hour ago, Slim said:
As I recall ASAP used do some form of captive screws for the pump plate
We are going to cut an access hatch behind removable Companionway steps for that very reason ?
1 hour ago, Tracy D'arth said:Thought it was, it now seems to have leapt onto the back of the engine!
TD'
Yes indeed gearbox was detached for transport but we do have it
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2 minutes ago, Alan de Enfield said:
You don't clear it from 'outside' the filter is inside.
A hull fitting (sea-cock) allows the water in, thru a pipe to the filter, then piped from the filter outlet to your cooing system - exactly the same as on 'lumpy water' boats.
I don't mean the vetus raw water strainer but some suggest on another thread the actual inlet can get blocked on the outside via plastic bags crap etc meaning they have to go in the water or at least find a method of clearing it
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So upon reading about how raw water intakes get blocked up meaning a trip into the canal. Is there any reason that the intake could not be mounted near the weed hatch or at least with touching distance so if something was to catch/block the inlet hole a reach around via the weed hatch would be a much more civilised way of clearing the debris ????
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1 hour ago, OldGoat said:
It would be awful if everybody agreed - removes all the fun....
FWIW when we started boating we hired from Teddesley and all their boats - those that they had built - were FWC. They ran quieter, the engine bays were cooler and the final clincher was that when I had the inevitable visit down the weed hatch, there was no red hot (erll very hot) exhaust pipe sitting there waiting to burn your arms. Couple that with when we hired a boat from "the Wing Commander" (actually a squadron leader) if anyone knows to whom I was referring - it got very hot indeed when going upstream on the tidal Thames (because the skin tanks were inadequate for that use).
When I ordered my hull I asked for a 'decent sized mud box' - and that's what I got and it's been great for some 20 years....
Interesting that you mention Teddesley boats as Although my boat is of an unknown to me make I have had people suggest it was a Teddesley due to the rear mounted gas lockers
28 minutes ago, Tony Brooks said:There was a raw water pump on his old engine so presumably the OP knows about the access. However that pump may not be in use. If it is difficult I think the Speedseal easy access (easier access) cover may now be available again in the UK.
Have they not shut down due to illness I followed another link earlier from another thread
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4 minutes ago, Tracy D'arth said:
Looking at both photos of the new engine it would seem to already be set up for raw water secondary cooling with water injection for a wet exhaust.
Seems to be a complete power unit except the thermostat housing.
TD'
We are more than happy to keep it indirect raw water but have heard bad things about weed and silt if anyone can shed light on this or any solutions to prevent problems
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If anyone can shed better light on the idea of drawing water from the canal then please feel free as this was our original option idea (as said being sailors this is am quite common on saltwater boats) but some seem to think it's a bad idea with reports of inlets clogging up within 90 seconds through silt and weed build up.
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10 minutes ago, OldGoat said:
// grinding axe mode
I have a feshwater cooled (Beta 50) and no problems on the canals as did all the boats that we have hired in the past.
As your engine has been nicely set up for fresh water, might that not be the easier solution?
It does need an adequate mud box and intake in the side not the bottom of the hull.
We are hearing mixed advice on this. It's something we are used to both coming from sea and sailing where saltwater corrosion is the biggest issue but we are hearing nasty things about silt and weed being too much of a problem on the canals
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We have had issues with our original BMC 1500 since buying our 48ft cruiser stern project boat with overheating, smoky and noisy, fluid leaks & general reliabillity issues. And has to be said what seems like an overly complicated system with a large car type fan radiator and two skin tanks one either side on each swim she also has two fuel tanks one each side but with only one filler cap. I understand she was previously an ex hire boat
We have recently obtained a Heat Exchanger Raw Water cooled BMC 1800 which was refurbished on a millitary seargeants budget with resources availavailble
Which we plan to fit when we get into the marina at the end of August after a total clean and refurb of the engine bay.
Ideally we would like to convert to skin tank cooling as drawing water from the canal is not reccomended
What are the nessacary steps to convert to skin tank cooling. Any advice much appreciated
The BMC 1800 recently aqquired for £1000 in a nice millitary green ?
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I purchased a Seaflo shower tray to gp under our shower inbetween the ribs in the baseplate but have recently watched a you tube vid EdsBoat where he was told this was not reccomended and to just use a Whale Gulper Pump connected to the shower waste and then to a skin fitting????
What's best does the lidded SeaFlo trap have any drawbacks over the Gulper???
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6 hours ago, Tracy D'arth said:
I have never had much success with bag tanks. They seem to crack where they crease when empty and are very vulnerable to puncture or wearing through on the smallest protuberances. You would also need a bulkhead to retain one.
I have had stainless tanks made for less than you quote, a mild steel tank would be heavier but properly painted inside would last quite well.
Welded plastic tanks are less common but do the job, some say that they taint the water, I don't know.
You could have a bulkhead and deck floor welded in and have an integral tank, again properly painted will last the boat out. The advantage with an integral bow tank is that you get the maximum capacity without any side to side ballasting problem.
Another advantage would be that you would then have a self draining front deck.
Any options as to tank builders you'd reccomend ????
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Having stripped out the old weakened wooden bow doors that some thieves had managed to get through nicking a generator old fixie bike and dog food!!! And a bench covering the old 400ish litre plastic baffled water tank which protruded 800mm into the cabin and into the bow.
The layout we have chosen is similar to below with a bed off to the side and side door leading out to the bow area
Option one is to have a custom steel bow tank fabricated at a quoted approx cost of around £700 giving about 500litres
Option two is the cheaper option to use the existing baffled 400liter tank positioned under the side bed which even if we replaced for fresh new tank would cost £170
Obviously the main concern would be balancing the boat any ideas suggestions or don't do its are welcome
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Thanks everyone I have slabs not bricks (Which are all now broken as lifting whole slabs was not that easy as they were wedged in, a little bit of a jigsaw puzzle) but love the tile spacer idea.
Bitumen Rusting???? Forgive my ignorance. Then that could of what's been down before as there seems to be a smooth black layer below whats loose.
Is there a bitumen product anyone would reccomend????
Will just applying bitumen stop the rust continuing or will I need a product like Fertan or Aquasteel
The grease idea does sound another good one but laying the slabs on it ????
Finally had a chance to get some photos uploaded.
In terms of boards for the sub floor it already has about 3/4 of the boat done in 18mm Ply and treated with something like preserver although all loose planks at the mo. So just finishing that off with about 2 8x4 Sheets
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Thanks, the boat never had a Cratch Cover installed although a frame did come with the boat. We are now in the process of building a catch cover frame and this will prevent water from entering at the bow and draining through to the back
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I'm currently in the process of treating the baseplate inside which has suffered some corrosion where water has entered the bow and run to the back where it is deposited via a bilge pump. I have lifted the ballast slabs in sections and scraped all the loose rust.
The plan now is to use a rust converter either Aquasteel, Fertan or vactan before coating with an as yet undecided coating and then relaying the slabs and then 18mm External Ply Sub Floor coated in cuprinol
Any suggestions about which products
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On 10/04/2020 at 20:53, starman said:
These people made a couple of custom rigid plastic tanks for us - very good, helpful, family firm.
http://www.jpplastics.co.uk/index.htmlWhat was the ballpark figure you paid can't get an exact quote at the mo as we have to strip out the existing doors and square plastic tank but an 8dea would be nice
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Oki looking for reccomendations who's good at making a custom fit water tank to go in the bow. Don't 2ant to go with flexible as I want to maximise capacity and they tend to be limited to 150l
Thanks in Advance
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Yes I think it is the biggest issue for me was stopping water coming in and under the cabin floor but the addition of a Cratch Cover will stop tjis anyway
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I think if it's anything North of a Grand then redoing the whole thing in Wood is probably the better option as my boat partner is an established carpenter. And as said with the install of the Cratch Cover Frame he is currently constructing this will stop water ingress.
Thanks for all the replies
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So looking for a ball park figure Of what it would cost to have someone weld in a new Well Deck. Either fully sealed round the edges or a sort of suspended platform
The space is about 1.7m x 1.5m
My boat which has a wooden top currently has a wooden front door which is connected to a wooden platform over the watertank. This needs replacing as that floor is delaminated severly. As you may or may not know alr3ady the boat was designed so water enters the well deck and drains to the rear where it is pumped out.
We are currently building a Cratch Cover to stop this but will need the floor redone as said either in wood or in steel so just seeing what the comparison is cost wise
Regards
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http://marineenterprises.apolloduck.net/detail.phtml?id=386286
One option listed is the Thorneycroft that appears to be a BMC 1500D.
I also know from experience that Betas tend to be drop in as they have adjustable feet designed for just that reason.
What is the acceptable HP for a 48ft Narrowboat
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It's smokes a hell of a lot!!!! And it's slow to start often taking a while I to get going
In terms of direct replacement some of the options what are BMC direct replacements.
Having come from sailboats is it not just a question of engine mounts and prop angles etc ?????
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£2500 for the engine which would normally include a gearbox
36 minutes ago, Tony Brooks said:Does your boat have a skin tank that is serviceable or is this to be fitted in the price for keel/tank cooling. If it has one is it large enough.Although I dislike them immensely for canal use it will probably be easer to fit a heat exchanger engine.
My choice would be that Bukh DV36
Yes it does whether it's serviceable is questionable. I was leaning towards heat exchanger options tbf
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I'm looking at Marine Enterprises at some used engines as I feel it would be easier to replace the aging BMC 1500 to something more reliable and efficient.
With a budget of £2500 which seems to give me a good range of choice. What would be a good replacement considering the following:
48ft Narrowboat HP requirements
Keel cooled or Heat Exchanger in terms of providing additions like hot water etc
(The BMC current set up uses an additional powered cooling fan much like a car with no external water intake)
Brand including availability of spares, reliability etc
Thanks in advance ?
BMC 1500 to BMC 1800
in Boat Building & Maintenance
Posted
Yep the gear box which was remov3d in the top picture but we do have it ?