TheSaintlyOne
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Posts posted by TheSaintlyOne
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Just now, MtB said:
Amazon tends to impose higher standards on its retailers. First hit on Amazon gave me this one, which looks just like the ebay kits but is twice the price but the listing states the sizes of all the adaptors. Get what you pay for!
Glow Plug Adapters sizes:
M10 x 1.0: 83mm
M10 x 1.0: 91mm
M10 x 1.0: 102mm
M10 x 1.0: 113mm
M10 x 1.0: 119mm
M10 x 1.25: 64mm
M10 x 1.25: 135mm
M12 x 1.25: 47mm
M22 x 1.5: 118mm
Injector Adapter Sizes:
M20 x 1.5: 75mm
M22 x 1.5: 73mm
M24 x 1.5: 88mm
M24 x 2: 63mmThanks for the information shame its a day to late 🙄🙄🙄
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This was the point of the original question which asked what the adapter size was. TBF getting really peeved off with this effing BMC nothing works 🙄🙄🙄🙄🤔
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Thanks Tony all Ordered. Definitely looks like a better kit 😁
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Define a decent Kit. I'm not looking to do alot of these and was looking at a fairly cheap ebay option
This kind of thing
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Have ordered the Fuel Lift Pump and New Filter and expect to replace these in the coming week. As suggested I am going to perform a Compression test. (Well my brother will) so I need to get a diesel Compression testing kit. But what adapter size do I need to make sure is in any kit I buy will be compatible with the BMC 1800.
Regards
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Oki so the plan is. Purchase a new Lift Pump £28 from calcut (provably other suppliers but happy after seeing the calcut one on a YouTube vid) get a new oil filter and new oil (still to decide which one) and try it. At least then we know that the lift pump will be good!!! If the problem still persists then we will look at getting the injector unit refurbed.
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4 minutes ago, Tracy D'arth said:
I am relieved, I was thinking of another source of spray paint recon engines. I hope it is not a dog for you.
I do believe the guy had some BMC experience and a military workshop.
"To the OP, have you checked the valve clearances?"
I haven't checked and tbh when my Bro is about to help he is often on limited time so not sure
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4 minutes ago, Tracy D'arth said:
Tell me where the "refurbished" engine came from please.
If a diesel engine will not start with fuel at the injectors and a decent battery, it has low compression.
Was purchased privately from a guy from a military barracks in Dorset. It was going to go into another boat but that has some serious delamination to its shell and they sold off the engine.
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Will the engine run okay once started with Easy start regardless if there is a problem with the lift pump ????
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The story is that we had the refurbed BMC 1800 craned in last year. We has starting problems by which I mean it would not start on the control button and seem to require bleeding and lifting of engine boards not something you want to do regularly on the canal. My brother came along and got it started bled through & few squirts of easy start and it ran okay. We shifted it up the canal (it did cut out when the throttle was pushed hardish) but restarted and covered a few miles. But when it came to moving again a week later no luck. Myself not being a mechanic of any kind could do nothing. Bro came along again just before Christmas and got it running again We moved it again but winter kicked in and this past weekend Bro was able to come to the boat. Got it started after checking it through fuel coming out at all points. But would not crank. Few squirts of easy start and if fired into life and ran okay for a few minutes before we noticed that fuel was dribbling out of the bottom of the oil breather where it connects to the engine.
Bro drained the sump (about two Gallons all told Oil and diesel mixture but more fuel density than oil.
When it starts it runs fine but requires the easy start squirts and obviously we have the fuel in sump problem
Hope that clarifies
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So after trying to fix the poor starting problem that has been persistent for some time. We used a few squirts of easy start and the engine chugged to life. But we then noticed that Diesel was dribbling out the bottom of the Oil breather housing.
All was drained out of the sump about two Gallons in total Diesel.
Over the past 6 moths we have not run the engine alot and on the few occasions that my bother a mechanic has been available we have tried bleeding the engine through.
Anyway as said we have now drained all from the sump and plan to put fresh oil and filters back.
I am reading from other similar threads that the likely cause is either a Faulty Lift Pump (Diaphragm) or Faulty Injector.
In terms of the Lift Pump I have heard that others have Retro fitted an electric pump in place of the lift pump.
What is the details on this please and of course any other support help you can offer would be much appreciated
Regards
Duncan
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22 hours ago, Tracy D'arth said:
Its just 1/2" bsp on the 1.8 D so you need male 1/2" bsp to whatever pipe you use adapter and ptfe tape the thread. The 1.5 D BMC is 20 mm conduit thread.
Hi just found the old thread and on this you said it was NPT
Just want to make sure I get it right 😎
Head tapping on a 1.8D is NPT thread, on a 1.5D its 1/2" BSP. Calcutt can provide the NPT one. Some heads are reworked ones from the factory so check first, BMC were fond of making unannounced changes! NPT is the same thread as electrical conduit if that helps.
Edited June 29 by Tracy D'arth
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It wasnt my engine at the time this photo was taken so cant comment on the suitability but the guy that sold it to us is apparently an expert at BMCs and this wasnt hos first one so presume he knows his stuff
2 hours ago, Tracy D'arth said:The flow tapping is on the top head near the gearbox end, close to the rocker box, 1/2" BSP tapping, will have a plug in it at the moment. This goes to the BOTTOM of the coil in the calorifier.
The return from the TOP of the coil goes into the water pump via a tee piece in the hose on the port side under the heat exchanger/exhaust manifold. Stick a vent tee on the pipe to the calorifier at the highest point, usually on the top connection itself.
!5mm pipe will be sufficient for these pipes unless the calorifier is over 10metres away from the engine.
Os it just a standard 1/2 inch BSP or do I need something specific
Regards
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Hi everyone following on from a previous post we now have the BMC 1800 runming and the Calorifier ready to go in currently in place but only situ.
I remember some of you saying I needed a few specific bits for the engine to connect the Calorifier can you remind me what those are and where best to get then. Screw threads etc
Picture of our engine before install for reference.
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Thankyou It was due when I bought it but due to engine issues/swap covid etc we havent been anywhere to do it.
Hopefully We will get a space before november cancellations etc
Regards
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21 minutes ago, TheSaintlyOne said:
Because its well overdue by a year and the annodes are next to nothing and need replacing. London is very busy to book
Forgetting November as an issue can anyone give me an awnser to the other points posted a kit is advertised but seems iffy????
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Because its well overdue by a year and the annodes are next to nothing and need replacing. London is very busy to book
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Can you gimd me somewhere quicker that november then as that is the first available slot and its september to many people buying boars these fay slots are all taken up. I get what you are saying bit im not prepared to wait and do zilch til April.
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Whilst I do appreciate the temprature issue as I said we do need to do it. Booking a slot is dam near impossible with all slots taken up asap. Hopefully we might get a cancellation before november but given the forst available slot is november is a pretty good indication of the state of play sadly!!!
If nothing else the annodes will be done and something applied to help tide us over.
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Hi all.
We have arranged now the engine is working to sort our blacking and have contacted High Line and will be out for a month come the start of November. The first available unless something comes up beforehand. We will be Diy so just paying for crane and jetwash.
Its the first time we have done it but it definitely needs to be done so regardless. We can also use the month to sort a few jobs inside.
Question is how much blacking do we need????
My boat partner is a bit odd at google and came up with the following:
https://www.smlmarinepaints.co.uk/offers/canalboatmaintenancekit/3050_Maintenance
A blacking kit that has 10ltrs of blacking plus thinners and kit for £71
Now to me 10ltrs dont seem much, thinners Ive never heard of thinners in terms of blacking and £71 sounds very cheap????
Your thoughts and reccomendations please
Regards
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5 minutes ago, Tony Brooks said:
PRM changed the spec for their mechanical boxes from engine oil to ATF some years go but engine oil is correct for thr hydraulic ones.
Personally I would expect 5W40 to be a bit thin and maybe cause oil pressure problems, I suspect it is actually 15W40 so will be fine. I simply do not believe Calcutt would sell a 5W40 grade oil (if there is such a thing in mineral oil) for a 1.8. Please check back with them because you might not need to change the oil.
In an emergency almost any mineral oil you can find would do in the short term, I think even a semi-synthetic in the more viscous grades would do as a short term one off.
For short term u
I may have been wrong there about 5w/40
whats in it is was reccomended by calcuts
But will that halfords oil be okay or do I need to find something else. Finding non synthetic oil seems to be a bit difficult without ordering. Im at bulls bridge near London not exactly farm country
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Delta A20 apparently????
1 minute ago, TheSaintlyOne said:Delta A20 apparently????
PRM but you probably knew that already
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Just now, Tracy D'arth said:
But we are talking diesel engines here are we not? That is far far too expensive, you can buy for £2 a litre in 20 litre drums from farm suppliers and trade outlets. Forget Halfords, wrong place to shop for value for money, they have all those expensive overheads and buildings to pay for.
Unfortunately its a bit of an emergency as having now got the engine running with whatever was in there. I believe 5w/40 non synthetic as apparently reccomended by calcuts. We need to make sure we have enough as we have to move the boat a few miles up the canal as we have been on a 24hr mooring since before lockdown.
Hence no time for ordering/buying from cheaper suppliers.
Sorry Im a bit confused and tbf your right they probably are not upto spec on API. This engine oil will be suitable for our deisel engine BMC 1800
We have enough engine oil but not alot in the gearbox and Im told its the same oil. Please correct me if wrong
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3 hours ago, Tony Brooks said:
Probably original 20W50 in API CC but I am sure SAE 15W40 in CF will be fine, avoid synthetic oils.
Seen this but bei g told its no good and for petrol engines
Which Compression Tester Kit for BMC1800
in BMC
Posted
Well the kit arrived today. It seems very American as all the cars listed as compatible are American cars. However below is the list of compatible adapters and M12x1.25 seems to be there.
I've added the list. Thanks for the help as you can imagine having not has a great deal of fun with this engine in the narrowboat I'm getting tetchy and for that I apologise if I've been too stroppy.
Regards and Thankyou