Jump to content
Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble
Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

2 Neutral

Profile Information

  • Gender

Previous Fields

  • Boat Name
    Maggie May
  • Boat Location

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Hi all, many thanks for advice. What we did in the end was not pretty but it will hopefully work. The guy I'm working with was not happy with trying to force the battens to bend by putting rods underneath them. He wanted to cut curved battens with a jigsaw. Because I reckoned that would be really time-consuming (I'm on a budget), we decided instead to cut the battens into 200mm sections. I have existing wooden battens screwed into the crosswise steel battens, which are 25mm deep and 10mm wide. So we screwed the 200mm sections into the existing wooden battens and also stuck them to the ceiling and the existing battens with sikaflex. We filled in any small gaps between sections with more sikaflex. The existing wooden battens are in decent condition so I think it'll be ok. Hope no one tells me I've made a disastrous mistake. It looks pretty solid. I tried notching two battens to help them bend (small notches - only about 1.5mm) but one split on a knot when I bent it against the ceiling and the other one split on one of the notches. RW Davis told me that if you have time you can weight them and soak them for a month in the canal before bending them.
  2. Yeah, that's an option I've been thinking about. Am worried that if I run four lengthwise battens, then, with my crosswise battens, I will have to chop the kingspan up into little chunks and lose a lot of insulating value.
  3. Ok, thanks all. Also, just to be clear, I'm bending them on the 38mm side, to put up 40mm kingspan. (So hope that seems doable to people).
  4. (I'm gonna reserve steaming them for last resort just because it might be time-consuming).
  5. Ok, thanks a lot for replies. So, if I'm struggling to get them to bend (later today when I have someone here with bigger muscles than me), is cutting small notches toward the centre of the batten an option? Or will it cause them to split/eventually degrade? (What do you call the steel battens running crosswise on the ceiling?)
  6. Hi all, I've had a look to find techniques for bending ceiling battens but don't have a clear picture yet. My transport options are limited so have got my battens from B&Q. They're 38mm x 25mm. I have crosswise steel battens on the ceiling of the boat at 500mm intervals. So far, my understanding is: Drill holes through steel batten and matching holes through wooden batten and brute force the batten to bend until you can screw it in. Or, dampen/soak the batten in some way (not sure with what) Or, cut small notches into the ceiling-side side of the batten to help it bend. Also, do people agree that sikaflex is good enough for attaching battens (even to the ceiling) or is screwing them in preferable? Thanks for any advice... Kerry
  7. @Neil Smith Ok, thanks a lot, Neil. @David Mack Thanks very much, that helps. I had been told that all steel surfaces need to be covered with insulation but wanted confirmation. Interesting that even 2mm polystyrene will do it.
  8. Oh, I see a bunch of people haven't used screws at all for battens, just stixall/sikaflex/marineflex.
  9. Hi Neil, thanks very much for replying. Ok, so based on what you did, there is no need to attach celotex to floorboards. Just set the celotex sheets down on top of the ballast. Ok, that's a lot simpler. And on the steel channels on the hull sides...ok, I hadn't actually grasped that I needed to attach a horizontal batten down the length of the channels. So, you do that rather than loads of vertical battens, I'm guessing. I assume you screw it onto the steel channel? (And, as you say, put silicone between the steel and the horizontal batten). When I removed the existing lining, there was no horizontal batten attached to the channel.
  10. Hi all, If anyone on this thread has the time to respond to a couple more questions about insulation.... To install 25mm celotex under the floor boards, I'm thinking to cut the celotex to fit between the floor supports, then temporarily lay some loose battens on top of the ballast as a raised surface to lay a strip of celotex on. Then apply the glue to the celotex, then lay a floor board on top. So the celotex would be a sort of 'tile' on the underside of each floorboard. And the floorboards would have a border with no celotex, which will rest on the steel floor supports. Floor supports themselves will just have floorboards resting on them with no insulation. Is this ok? Also, I have two steel horizontal 'runners' on the hull walls under the gunwale (don't know what term for these) - like lengths of square steel tubing with the bottom cut out. Have inserted pic. I would fit my celotex underneath these. But should I put shallow 12mm strips of celotex on the runners themselves so that I don't have bare steel against my lining? Should all steel surfaces be covered with some form of insulation?
  11. @Neal Smith Ok thanks, yeah. The current weather has a....sobering... effect on one's insulation choices. Mildly terrifying to a newbie. Woke up on sunday to 0 degrees inside the boat. No doubt it's -5 right now. (I'm elsewhere). @system 4-50 Ha, ok, some debate about the drainage channel, then. @Tam & Di Yeah, thanks, I'm gonna do some major flake sweepage.
  12. @ BWM Ok, right, I understand. Thanks very much for advice. @nb Innisfree Hm interesting point about the drainage channel. I didn't know about that. Will figure it into plans. Thanks.
  13. Ok, thanks, I'll look into glass mineral wool. But does it come in slab form and also loose, stuffing, form? If one stuffs it in, without using adhesive, will it be airtight enough against the steel? Or do you use adhesive?
  14. Ok, I'd better just do the ceiling then. I'll be getting a loan to cover it all anyway. I can actually see rust under some of the light fittings. So 50mm celotex on the ceiling, I'm guessing? Or is 25mm good enough (since it's more effective than polystyrene)? @BWM Ok thanks for advice about removing loose rust. Will make sure to do that.
  15. Marginally superior to just sleeping under the stars, yeah. Marginally. Yeah, gonna do 25mm celotex above gunwale, 50mm below gunwale and I think maybe 12mm on the floor. Currently 25mm poly on the ceiling. Was maybe going to leave that for later - do you think ceiling is critical?
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.