SadieF

I dont mind the look. But would prefer some alumium frames to match ones I already have as close as possible

This is good to know. I do need 3 more smaller windows. It might be worth getting domestic windows and cutting the curved part of hole into a right angle so it fits.

Hiya. Do you mean drilling through the aluminium frame too. Getting to the middle part from the side? See photo. That's a great idea. I've seen the kits you can buy with the piping and pumping some kind of chemical all around the inside. I think to reseal or treat the rubber bit that is treated with a chemical and probably gone now due to the water. Then leaving the holes open but sticking some kind of filter over. One of the holes high and one low. I saw a YouTube video on it. But for a house window of course Definitely worth a go. Im not sure taking it all apart is a good idea though. Putting it back together may be an issue. I didnt pay alot for these windows so definitely worth trying to salvage.

Great. Yes I'll give them a call. If it helps here is another photo of the windows wigh less shadow

Hiya. I wondered if anyone here can advise me if my new Double glazed windows are able to be saved. I picked them up second hand and have fitted 3 of them. There are 4 more to go. However, after fitting I noticed there is condensation in between the panes and it appears someone has attempted to reseal with sealant that hasn't cured in places. Is it possible to simply scrape out the old sealant and redo on both panes of glass at the edges. Or does the glass need to come out completely and replace the rubber bit that separates both panes as well. I've also seen a method of drilling small holes to let the moisture out. However it's toughened glass I think so not sure if this method is possible. Advice gratefully received. I spoke to a window maker who i thought might know. But he only makes them new to order. Which is very expensive and im trying to do things cheaply. Have included some pics. Thanks.

Yes its steel. And i don't doubt there will be some corrosion. Someone did one for me a while back and need to cut a strip from steel above anyhow as new windows slightly bigger. I have rust treatment. Angle gjnder with wire wheel. And red oxide. Do i need more primer than this? I beleive thats whats used before however I will redo the one already done as i want them all matching. And the glazing tape on Windows ive got is old from previous fittings. I cant imagine how just using the tape will make it water tight as there is a big outside lip that tape doesnt fully cover. I will photograph later and send. Right now I'm thinking to clear off all previous tape/gunk and use sikaflex with rivets

Hello Its me again. Im looking for some advice on fitting windows on my boat. I need to take out old leaky ones which have been fitted badly. And I've acquired new ones ready to fit at the weekend. They are largish rectangular. Hopper style double glazed aluminium. I have heard varied methods of how to fit the new ones. Use self tapping screws, tap a thread and use screws. Rivets. Nuts and bolts. Ive got sikaflex for the sealant but i also notice there is some rubber tape along line of where screws go through on window edges. Some are intact and some are wasted/missing. Does this rubber tape need to be used as well as the sealant? And what is the best method to screw into place? And sizes of screws to buy?Any other tips to prep me for the weekend gladly received. Thanks

Thanks everyone. I did it a while back. A bit bodged but its on there. Will need to redo at some stage as only held down with mastic and the rust is quite bad on the underside. May need to cut out and weld a new patch of metal in future. Here's a pic. I have painted with red oxide around outside since this pic taken. I regret not painting it all before resealing. Oh well.

Thanks for your replies. I was planning to live on it for a few years yes. I was hoping to do it up and make it my home.. and add value. The flue pipe at the top had rusted a bit. Some came off in my hand which is why its looking short. Im guessing a replacement flue might have to happen too. No problem about the insulation underneath. Ive cleared it under there looking for the bolts. Btw there were no bolts underneath. Didnt seem to be anything holding it down firmly. I could wiggle it. What are captive nuts? I have someone coming on sat who i can ask to check this out. Will try not to panic til then

Hi all Thanks for all your advice so far. I got started yesterday and got a nasty surprise when i found a little hole in the roof. See picture. Ive temporarily covered it up ready to finish on saturday. But what to to about this hole. Its not covered by the collar its just outside the join. Is there something i can do other than welding. This has made me nervous about rest of boat.... Thanks Sadie

I see your point. Im just really eager as ive got loads more to crack on with after this. Dont want to make the stove all nice before ive sorted the leak too. I saw a 3 day break in the weather. Wed to fri. This could change though so will check wed am before i start. I also have another place to stay for next couple of weeks so ideal time to let it cure. However, this cold weather might prolong sealant cure time. Btw i do have some flat sanding discs already but not the backer. Saw this in the video posted. Would this be less savage than the flap discs? Thanks Sadie

Note that a flap sanding disk is MUCH more aggressive than a wire brush attachment Actually perhaps wire brush is better since im sure there is an attachment for this kicking about already. Hope to do on weds. Will post progress. Thanks for all the advice. Its really valuable Sadie

Hiya. Do you have to take the rust off first with this method? Cheers Sadie

Ok. Im going to get a couple of flap sanding discs. I thought i had to hold the sander disc flat to the surface but it appears on that video he's holding at an angle ( maybe thats where it gets the name). So the guard can stay on if thats the case.

I like the idea of the high temperature paint. Then i can get funky. Great idea. I can see theres already harsh marks from the angle grinder from previous owners attempt at taking back paint and redoing. I have gauntlets and eye protection. Good advice on the earplugs too. The sanding attachment may be enough for the roof and perhaps the collar needs going over with the wire brush attachment as it looks very rusty under there. Someone to demonstrate would be good. I can ask around. But a youtube video may have to suffice. Or just the wire brush by hand. Ive got the high temp sealant at thd ready. Just got to buy some new coach bolts, find those nuts on the inside to get the thing undone. Then hope theres no unexpected things lurking. Got a dry day free on weds. Thdn thurs and fri looks dry. Sat rain. Enough time to cure? I can stay away a few nights while it all sets. Out of interest is there some other tool i can get other than the needle gun that will be handy for rest of paintjob later. Or shall i just crack on with the angle grinder and sanding attachments. And. I couldnt see how the sanding discs attach and work with the guard. Guessing that comes off. Yeah need a bit of instruction on it i reckon

I just had a look at a needle gun with chisel attachments too. It seemed reasonable at £30. But then if having to get hold of a compressor too things could really start to add up. I already have an angle grinder but not used if before. Not sure of all it can do and the attachments. If i used the wire brush attachment could i also clean the rust off the stove with that. And could i clean and repaint stove without taking it apart. Or is it advisable to paint parts separately then reassemble. I do have a fair few other jobs to do. Taking back paint and rust for when repacing windows and eventually the paint job on whole thing. So i dont mind investing in the right tools. I also saw a scraper tool on a video i saw. Could the needle gun be used when it comes to blacking too?

Hiya. Im looking for a bit of advice on reasealing my flue pipe. Its leaking a fair bit and the water is making my stove look very shabby and contributing to rust. Ive got the right sealant, ive got the red oxy paint. Ive seen a youtube video and waiting for a dry day to get this done. But ive gone to look further to check the two bolts and it appears they are circular. Will attach photo. So im wondering if anyone has come accross these type of bolts before and know what tool will get them open. Also what is the best tool i can get for taking the paint back to bare metal. Some tips would be good. And. I will attach a photo of my stove too. There is a circular piece spare. What part is this missing from. Im also wondering if i should treat my stove at the same time as resealing the top or is it possible to do this afterwards (as theres nothing wrong with thd seal inside it just looks a bit shoddy) Thanks

Hiya Can anyone let me know an insurance company that insures liveaboard cc'ers. I just got a boat and having a bit of online faff with it. I also don't have a survey, so probably only third party available til I get it. Please let me know if that's right. The boat was made 1975. Any other cc'ers out there, can you advise me what you did for insurance. Thanks in advance Sadie

It does look very high. i wonder why that is. it really is a minefield out there. I've been in touch anyway - waiting for some more pics and info.

Thanks. This looks promising. Does it mean the entire original hull has been replaced - rather than plated in places. http://narrowboats.apolloduck.co.uk/boat.phtml?id=569823

Hi Mike the Boilerman Thanks for this advice. Yeah i'm dubious about the engine. The owner texted me the other day saying she wanted 17k for it. I spat out my tea involuntarily through shock. I think that's a bit silly, so i'm going to leave it and sit tight for a better deal that's within my budget. Working engine and sound hull has to be a priority. There was an advisory in the survey about the engine possibly needing a full rebuild and being costly, however she advised this wasn't the case, .... yeah if it's going so slowly and smoking it doesn't seem right and i feel like i'm being taken for a ride a bit.

I believe the surveyor was saying it's been plated from the bow 8 feet back. so measurements starting from the back. and it's just the base plate. Even so, this is quite alot of overplating work. The owner has got back to me and they are wanting 17k. i think this is a bit ridiculous so i'm going to leave it. I can't really be bothered to haggle it down as the overplating and potentially dodgy engine are a bit off putting. I can't afford to spend money on a boat that might sink or need loads doing. It's not a springer. it's unknown. the orginal post was about a springer

Thanks for this. yes i saw it but i think it's a little too wee for me. yes i thought it seems a little dubious. i'm no expert but it should be able to go at a normal speed if it was 'sound'

Hi Alan de Enfield Thanks for that message. I think i've found a similar boat. it's a 30ft narrowboat, unknown manufacturer, 1977, cruiser stern. needs blacking - done 3 years ago. has a solar panel, and inverter. calorifier, space to install a shower - (started but not finished). good burner. full size gas hob and oven, sink. no fridge. it's small but it's really well laid out with a double bed partly going underneath the bow and a sitting room as you walk in that can convert to a small double for guests. The engine is a bmc 1.5 water coolled and is said to be sound, but doesn't go fast - smoke comes out on high revs i was told! I had a brief look at the last survey done 3 years ago and there appears to be a bit of 'hungry horse' effect where plates bend in on the sides but it says 'not affecting the integrity of the structure at this stage'! The base plate has been overplated from 22ft to the bow extending full width, also 6-14ft, and a small bow plate welded under stern peice. So it's had a fair bit of overplating! . It's a nice little boat inside. I wondered if based on this info people here could help me decide how much they think this boat is worth. and any further questions i should be asking/checks to do. I'll of course be getting a survey, before actually buying. What would be the advice re. the overplating? My budget is pretty low so I'm not sure if a hull that;s sound with no plating is possible on this budget. Hope to get some advice . Thanks. Sadie

yes - these things are a must. I will keep on looking. My budget is pretty low though 13k max right now. I'm not entirely sure it's possible to get a decent boat for this cash. What's your thoughts on this. Yes. I think it's going to work out pretty expensive for the owner once that happens. Maybe a van would be a better option for now. with my lowish budget, low for a boat, for pretty good for a van budget. hmmmm.