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Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble
Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble


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  1. I dont mind the look. But would prefer some alumium frames to match ones I already have as close as possible
  2. This is good to know. I do need 3 more smaller windows. It might be worth getting domestic windows and cutting the curved part of hole into a right angle so it fits.
  3. Hiya. Do you mean drilling through the aluminium frame too. Getting to the middle part from the side? See photo. That's a great idea. I've seen the kits you can buy with the piping and pumping some kind of chemical all around the inside. I think to reseal or treat the rubber bit that is treated with a chemical and probably gone now due to the water. Then leaving the holes open but sticking some kind of filter over. One of the holes high and one low. I saw a YouTube video on it. But for a house window of course Definitely worth a go. Im not sure taking it all apart is a good idea though. Putting it back together may be an issue. I didnt pay alot for these windows so definitely worth trying to salvage.
  4. Great. Yes I'll give them a call. If it helps here is another photo of the windows wigh less shadow
  5. Hiya. I wondered if anyone here can advise me if my new Double glazed windows are able to be saved. I picked them up second hand and have fitted 3 of them. There are 4 more to go. However, after fitting I noticed there is condensation in between the panes and it appears someone has attempted to reseal with sealant that hasn't cured in places. Is it possible to simply scrape out the old sealant and redo on both panes of glass at the edges. Or does the glass need to come out completely and replace the rubber bit that separates both panes as well. I've also seen a method of drilling small holes to let the moisture out. However it's toughened glass I think so not sure if this method is possible. Advice gratefully received. I spoke to a window maker who i thought might know. But he only makes them new to order. Which is very expensive and im trying to do things cheaply. Have included some pics. Thanks.
  6. Yes its steel. And i don't doubt there will be some corrosion. Someone did one for me a while back and need to cut a strip from steel above anyhow as new windows slightly bigger. I have rust treatment. Angle gjnder with wire wheel. And red oxide. Do i need more primer than this? I beleive thats whats used before however I will redo the one already done as i want them all matching. And the glazing tape on Windows ive got is old from previous fittings. I cant imagine how just using the tape will make it water tight as there is a big outside lip that tape doesnt fully cover. I will photograph later and send. Right now I'm thinking to clear off all previous tape/gunk and use sikaflex with rivets
  7. Hello Its me again. Im looking for some advice on fitting windows on my boat. I need to take out old leaky ones which have been fitted badly. And I've acquired new ones ready to fit at the weekend. They are largish rectangular. Hopper style double glazed aluminium. I have heard varied methods of how to fit the new ones. Use self tapping screws, tap a thread and use screws. Rivets. Nuts and bolts. Ive got sikaflex for the sealant but i also notice there is some rubber tape along line of where screws go through on window edges. Some are intact and some are wasted/missing. Does this rubber tape need to be used as well as the sealant? And what is the best method to screw into place? And sizes of screws to buy?Any other tips to prep me for the weekend gladly received. Thanks
  8. Thanks everyone. I did it a while back. A bit bodged but its on there. Will need to redo at some stage as only held down with mastic and the rust is quite bad on the underside. May need to cut out and weld a new patch of metal in future. Here's a pic. I have painted with red oxide around outside since this pic taken. I regret not painting it all before resealing. Oh well.
  9. Thanks for your replies. I was planning to live on it for a few years yes. I was hoping to do it up and make it my home.. and add value. The flue pipe at the top had rusted a bit. Some came off in my hand which is why its looking short. Im guessing a replacement flue might have to happen too. No problem about the insulation underneath. Ive cleared it under there looking for the bolts. Btw there were no bolts underneath. Didnt seem to be anything holding it down firmly. I could wiggle it. What are captive nuts? I have someone coming on sat who i can ask to check this out. Will try not to panic til then
  10. Hi all Thanks for all your advice so far. I got started yesterday and got a nasty surprise when i found a little hole in the roof. See picture. Ive temporarily covered it up ready to finish on saturday. But what to to about this hole. Its not covered by the collar its just outside the join. Is there something i can do other than welding. This has made me nervous about rest of boat.... Thanks Sadie
  11. I see your point. Im just really eager as ive got loads more to crack on with after this. Dont want to make the stove all nice before ive sorted the leak too. I saw a 3 day break in the weather. Wed to fri. This could change though so will check wed am before i start. I also have another place to stay for next couple of weeks so ideal time to let it cure. However, this cold weather might prolong sealant cure time. Btw i do have some flat sanding discs already but not the backer. Saw this in the video posted. Would this be less savage than the flap discs? Thanks Sadie
  12. Note that a flap sanding disk is MUCH more aggressive than a wire brush attachment Actually perhaps wire brush is better since im sure there is an attachment for this kicking about already. Hope to do on weds. Will post progress. Thanks for all the advice. Its really valuable Sadie
  13. Hiya. Do you have to take the rust off first with this method? Cheers Sadie
  14. Ok. Im going to get a couple of flap sanding discs. I thought i had to hold the sander disc flat to the surface but it appears on that video he's holding at an angle ( maybe thats where it gets the name). So the guard can stay on if thats the case.
  15. I like the idea of the high temperature paint. Then i can get funky. Great idea. I can see theres already harsh marks from the angle grinder from previous owners attempt at taking back paint and redoing. I have gauntlets and eye protection. Good advice on the earplugs too. The sanding attachment may be enough for the roof and perhaps the collar needs going over with the wire brush attachment as it looks very rusty under there. Someone to demonstrate would be good. I can ask around. But a youtube video may have to suffice. Or just the wire brush by hand. Ive got the high temp sealant at thd ready. Just got to buy some new coach bolts, find those nuts on the inside to get the thing undone. Then hope theres no unexpected things lurking. Got a dry day free on weds. Thdn thurs and fri looks dry. Sat rain. Enough time to cure? I can stay away a few nights while it all sets. Out of interest is there some other tool i can get other than the needle gun that will be handy for rest of paintjob later. Or shall i just crack on with the angle grinder and sanding attachments. And. I couldnt see how the sanding discs attach and work with the guard. Guessing that comes off. Yeah need a bit of instruction on it i reckon
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