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Not alternator load. For those unfamiliar with hunting, it is an engine surging (change of rpm) around every second. Engines can do this at cold but should vanish when warmed up. Putting the engine under load (in gear) at low revs does worsen the problem. Occasionally this problem can disappear - but then comes back. Hence thinking perhaps a sticky governer. It's an engine problem, no problem with running gear. Biggest issue can be not being able to travel at tickover (low revs with load) as can make the hunting more evident. Removing the load can sometimes let the engine settle to smoother idling. Forgot to mention engine is manufactured around 2002, with around 1500 hours.

Hi All, I'm looking for recommendation for a Barrus Shire Mechanic in Cheshire, I am near Macclesfield. I do most work myself but this may be beyond me! I am having hunting issues (revs up and down) with the engine (at low revs). All fine above around 1000rpm. I suspect I have a governer problem. Engine is a 4TNE88. All common things checked already such as filters etc. and injectors overhauled. I have spoken with a local mechanic but he doesn't work on Barrus engines apart from basic servicing, so looking for someone who specialises in Barrus Shire. Or someone who is a good diesel mechanic that can deal with an issue such as this.

I’m not sure what is the exact cause but mine was badly pitted around the prop only. The was in ok condition. Objects going through, stirring up air. Remember oxygen feed corrosion. I ended up replacing the tune. Been fine since

Thanks for your comments so far everyone. Interesting points about Kerridge, Bollington and Bullshead. I will certainly follow those up. I don’t recall a slipway or dry dock at Bollington though? The hull is a Liverpool boats build around 2002. As people have mentioned here the tube is thinner material than the hull. Unfortunately before I got the boat it had been neglected and obviously not blacked frequently. I have since blasted amd applied Jotun 2 pack a couple of years back. I got inside the tunnel with a brush on a broom handle to get as much blacking in as I could but could already see evidence of pitting so I am certain that is the cause for this issue now. The hole has appeared a few inches away from the propeller so this confirms that the pitting is most likely caused by aeration etc. of the thruster. While I could survive ok without the thruster, it would be a shame to lose it as most of the time I am on my own cruising and it’s nice to have that little extra help when needed in those wet and windy winter days! My thought is if I have to get the boat out of the water to seal the ends I might as well go the extra and change the tube if time allows. It will also help the resale value of the boat in the future.

Happy New Year to all. Looking for recommendations. I am based at Lymeview on the Macclesfield canal and over the New Year period my bow thruster tunnel (Vetus 55kgf 150mm) developed a leak. I have done an emergency repairs with plumbers putty for now. It is a small hole allowing a small squirt of water coming in about the thickness of a tooth pick. Does anyone have experience with this issue? Will the tunnel tube need complete replacement or can you ‘re-sleeve’ the tube? Can people recommend anyone? I assume the boat will need to come out of the water for this type of welding work? My options are Kerridge slipway (closest but subject to availability!) and I would need to find a suitable welder. I was thinking of Hesford Marine on the Bridgewater at Lymm (been there before for blacking) but is some distance away. Another option is I have come across Stoke on Trent boat building on the Trent and Mersey. They would involve a lot less locks to get to them! Can anyone recommend them? Or anyone else in the Stoke area? I spend long periods working away so I need to get this work done ASAP before I need to go away again. Any ideas and recommendations would be very much welcomed! Thanks in advance.

Thanks everyone one - how does the 4TNE84-BME 4TNE88-BME number translate to the numbers on the Barrus Shire website https://www.barrus.co.uk/divisions/marine/diesel/shire/downloads/shire-parts/?p=2 Or do they simply not have the old manuals from 2002 online anymore? Best place to buy thermostat? I assume all dual thermostat engines old and new use the same 71c and 88c thermostats? Surprisingly a google for Barrus Shire Thermostats doesn't reveal much at all?

Interesting comments. Do these numbers correspond to the more simpler models people refer to 35, 40 etc. or is that referring to HP? I am away at the moment so can't check the engine. As I mentioned I am not even sure what HP is it. It seems to have plenty of power. 1000-1100 rpm pushes 60ft of boat plenty fast enough. 800 rpm idle almost seems too fast passing moored boats. But seeing there are a few on here with good knowledge - one more question.... I think I may have a duff thermostat. What is the normal running temp of these engines? I tend to only get 60-70c and I reckon I can feel heat getting pushed to the skin tank pretty quick after start up. I feel it should be up the 80c mark as a normal temp. Calorifier heats ok. Any one changed thermostats in these before? It is the standard skin/calorifier dual setup. I suspect the skin tank thermostat is stuck open? Are both thermostats located in the black sqaure housing where the radiator/coolant cap is? Seen on the first photo above. Where is best place to get thermostats from?

Thanks PD1964. That picture looks identical to my engine so I will check by the starter. Failing that I will get in touch with Barrus.

Hoping someone can help or point out what I'm missing.... I am trying to identify what type of Barrus Shire engine I have. The number on the brass plate on top simply reads 2002 0201977. There is nothing else on it! The boat is a Liverpool 60ft boat built around 2003. I suspect its around 45hp. Looking at the Barrus Shire manual it explains how to identify the number but the format just doesn't seem to match with mine. They talk of a 14 50 E xxxx type format (where xxxx is the serial number). As you can see mine has no letters and the numbers don't even seem to match a model. If there was a 35, 40, 50 etc. in there it may make sense..... The only thing I can assume is the 2002 is the year of manufacture and perhaps the number after is the serial number meaning there is no model reference?? It has a PRM150 gearbox attached.

Sure it can get wet from below but only under power and usually only reverse. So a few minutes here and there. But from the top it’s water sitting there 24/7 particularly this time of year. Can’t be a bad thing to cover it I say. I’ve had to already change the beating so would like to make its life as long a possible. Only cost a fiver....

An update..... I found a CV boot that was the right size. Works well and looks neat.

Thank you all. I thought there may have been something ready made. But your responses give me some ideas to make something up. Can see some inner tube being cut up....

Hi all, I am looking for a rubber cover/grommet that I can slide over the tiller to keep the rain off the top bearing. I am thinking something like the rubber you used to see around car gear sticks. I thought it would be simple to find but after searching online I have struggled to really find anything suitable. I just keep coming across CV boots for cars. See photo below, this shows the exposed bearing. It needs to fit on the tiller and the part around the bearing will just overhang to cover the bearing - is will turn with the tiller. It isn't an issue if its designed for a smaller shaft as I can just cut to size hopefully. Hope that makes sense! Thanks

I forgot my other question also... What would people recommend as a top coat? Are there good two pack paints out there that have a better drying time? Most want at least 8 days after final coat. For example International Interline, Jotun Tankguard, Hempadur etc.

Hello all! I have a rusty integral steel freshwater tank that is in good need of a clean and paint. I plan to use Vactan to solve the rust issue. I have used Vactan in other places previously and found it very good at treating rust. The question is if a top coat is really required also? Vactan does say it is suitable for drinking water tanks and many say on here they have only used Vactan (no top coat) in their tanks without problems. Ideally I would like to top coat with a two pack solvent free epoxy. The only thing putting me off this is the long drying times epoxy needs before it's ready for use. It would put my tank out of service for a couple of weeks and being a live aboard, that is far from ideal. Has anyone used Vactan and can say its been fine and opened and inspected their tank after a couple of years to see what is it like with only Vactan applied?

Hi everyone. I have a Vanette 4000/2 hob that I am looking for a replacement knob. It is green. Although I see this type of hob on many boats, spare parts seem less common unless I am missing something. Anyone know where you can get parts? I found a white knob but obviously doesn't match. See photo for what I am after....

I'm thinking of going with the Jotamastic 87 now. I was put off by the drying times but going with the winter grade gets around that and it seems to be the name that comes up most often. Plus having the main feature of being surface tolerant makes it very appealing for our moist British days.... Would 20L be enough for 3 coats on a 60ft NB??

Hi all, I am looking for someone that can do upholstery and make curtains in Cheshire around the Macclesfield or Manchester area. I need to re-upholster my dinette seating and replace my curtains. Don't want to spend a fortune so needs to be competitively priced but do a good job. Looking for recommendations. Thanks!

I can see I have opened an interesting discussion.... much more to this than just some paint! lol It seems there is no clear winner in which product to use! I was hoping for a majority of people to say - use xx product! But not so.... Last calls now for folk to name their favourite surface tolerant 2 pack Let see what we get!

I will be going for a bright type colour. Due to limited access I wont be able to get the surface prepped 100% as I would like so I am looking at something than can tolerate a rusty surface. I probably really need an active rust converter primer that can handle immersion?

I am looking at painting my engine room and bilges. These areas have been neglected by the previous owner, so there is plenty of rust. I am trying to decide which paints would be best. Currently I am just thinking to go with standard red oxide primer followed by a top coat of bilge paint such a Danboline or Teamac sold by Midland. The areas will be prone to moisture and condensation and the engine room has a wet bilge. Apart from being chemical and oil resistance it needs to be hard wearing.

Opinions certainly vary. At the moment I am leaning towards Hempel Hempadur 45143. I read that it is also surface tolerant. The drying times for the Jotamastic 87 put me off. The Sherwin Williams could be an option but doesn't seem that common? And which one to use? I assume the Macropoxy M922? Not much info for it if surface tolerant and resists oil etc. Decisions to make but the 45143 is leading currently.....

Hello all. I am sure this topic has already been discussed several times..... I am soon having my narrowboat shot blasted and plan to apply 2 pack. I have recently purchased the boat and it has been neglected and not blacked often. This means the hull, although structurally sound has suffered pitting which needs to be halted. Hence the reason for going down the 2 pack route. However which 2 pack to use?? There seems to be a minefield of choice....Hempel Hempadur 45143, Interzone 954, Intertuf 362 just to name a few..... I will be applying it myself and will want something suited to adhere well to a pitted hull and provide a good protection. I am happy (and probably prefer) to do a couple or more coats. Also would anyone have an idea of how many litres would be needed for a 60ft narrowboat hull?

Thanks for the comments. I will investigate those.... Any recommendations for a blasting company that could come out?

Thanks for the comments. Wesley windows could be just what I'm looking for. I need to check if building the wall out next to the basin will close the room up too much or restrict room at the basin. If that's ok a custom door from Wesley could be the solution.... And yes I hate shower curtains! Its only a 500mm x 500mm shower and the curtain wrapping around you only has one positive of saving water due to wanting to finish quickly!