abnormalsheep

Pretty convinced now its an old Swanline...

Thats the one

Heh, this whole thread has got me thinking again.... as the thought of stretching has crossed my mind a few times, just for the extra 10ft - the fit out would be much more accommodating. I do think it is largely due to the sentimental attachment I've developed, and the only reason I would consider selling my boat is for a bit of extra space. In its current state it definitely wouldnt buy me a longer boat and as its still just a shell, it would be a good time to do it.. ? It has been overplated as well, (also in Lymm, funnily enough).... so this thread has definitely been food for thought! I was a bit concerned about the new base plate (as its been tucked underneath in several segments rather than one long piece).. so if i could somehow detach that, I could use the steel for the stretch.... oooo

Its a primer for Chlorinated Rubber ? Teamac... I am feeling much reassured anyway! Thanks ?

Thanks for the reassurance TD ? do you think the bitumen will be happy sat on top of the Metaclor stuff?

Yours is all matte-like too? The Rylards Bitumen i looked at said it had a glossy finish which started me doubting what it was. A pretty thin layer too - as some of it did budge a little. Barely though.... maybe I just need a better wire wheel - was using all the dregs i could find ?

After months of frustration with a dinky little water bag in the integral tank, yesterday I finally embarked on the job of taking it out, along with all the kingspan. Underneath the surface was relatively sound - certainly not a glossy bitumous finish, and mostly the rust came through in lots of tiny speckles. This is making me wonder if it was a failing epoxy job? The stuff didnt smear about like bitumen usually does. I say 'was', because it has now been painted with 'Metaclor Underwater Primer' - after a good session with an angle grinder. Retrospectively this seems to have been a mistake, as the advised topcoat for the primer isnt suitable for potable water tanks (Chlorvar Chlorinated Rubber). So, I dont think the tank was originally painted with bitumen, it now has a layer of dubious primer - the question is, what next? If it is originally epoxy, it would still need prep back to the steel for a good fusion, but the stuff barely budged with the wire wheel.... so, a flap wheel maybe? Or, just whack a load of bitumen on it and hope for the best. The primer was very metallic, and I believe has potent anti corrosive properties. Is bitumen fussy? The original suggestion was to just use the primer alone, but this has since spread a dollop of doubt throughout my neurons! Any advice greatly appreciated!

The windows in my boat aren't as angular as the boats in the most recent pictures - much more rectangular with rounded corners. The front of the boat is very similar though! The curve seems more pronounced but perhaps because it's not in the water? The D-bars are in the same positions too.

This post is the only post I can find with pictures that bear any resemblance to my boat, so here's my boat...! I've been told it's a Swanline, but it's very difficult to find any information about them online. It has a very distinctive curve with a fibreglass top that has been skinned in OSB with the intention of a fresh layer of fibreglass, though I intend to put a steel top on it. Any information about the boat would be really cool though! Thanks, Sam

Frustrating..... scrubbed vinegar into the rust for the last 2 days, rinsed it with soapy water and dried it.... and theres still orange dust all over it. If I paint over this will it come through, or do I need to just persevere with vinegar? Might try the spuds...

It has a whole new base plate, so it is currently not blacked, but not because it is old Just recapping some questions. Been reading a lot about using a zinc based paint. Another guy on the yard said with so many options, to just do what I want... ha. Sorry if it is tedious to ask such questions..! Thanks for all the advices!

Hehe yaay.. thank you JP.. is amazing what a bit of concurrence does! Dont mind too much about appearances on the outside, as will probably put on a bitumous top coat anyway..... and i'll probably use a primer that would be sufficient for the outside. Can also be grinded back or shot blasted much easier than the inside, once all interior is in. So, now it seems absolutely clear, that it is best to invest the MIO for the inners. Sweet! Thanks again

I suppose its still better to use inside, as there is perhaps a stronger need for the anti corrosive properties, with the constant condensation?

Thanks JP for your effort of simplifying something I was making a little too complicated! Will go forward with the vinegar & soap washes. Will probably use a hair dryer to make sure moisture doesnt linger! Found an MIO data sheet last night that went into detail about different surfaces, including painted surfaces, so I am a bit more reassured now! As it was a gift I had no idea about it... but having successfully found routes of reading... it seems to be used in external paint too, and is actually pretty pricey at £80/5 litres. So now im wondering about using the red oxide I have for the inside, and the MIO on the outside, as an intermediate layer between some zinc stuff and top coat. Just as I felt a little certainty another possibility raises its head..!!? Either way, the uncertainty of how much paint to remove inside has been reassured!

Eep.... well, the welder says he hasnt had a boat sink yet....maybe mine will be a first. Its really old (at least 30-40 years) steel and he kept blowing through... and all the bitumen bubbled. Dunno.... could grind it back and weld it again? Cant afford to pay someone.... been learning, but have hardly done my mile of weld. Painting over grease or diesel sounds a challenge too..!

Someone just wandered over and recommended aluminium phosphate... is this the same compound as the primocon and vinyguard?

Hehe, epoxy is now well behind me. I think I will keep using the wire wheel (gently) until satisfied with bitumen removal, then use one of the recommended primers before the layers kf fresh bitumen. The new steel definitely has millscale... a kind of weird shininess. I think I will use a really soft grade flapping disc to remove it? I have been removing the paint right the way up to the gunnel, and was thinking to bitumen the whole of the sides, unless it is the wiser consensus to use a different paint above the waterline? The osb is a whole other kettle of fish....! Will probably be another floundering post written about that at some point but no, no plans to bitumen it as of yet... might stop it leaking though! Re: winter.... as I have procrastinated so long, the season is fast approaching. There are still plates to be welded at the front of the boat, so realistically wouldnt be able to paint until october/november... which is probably too late to do a decent job? Really do want the best for my boat! Thanks again for all the experienced advice, really has put my mind at ease a bit more. Sam

This is at the back of the boat...where there is only the red stuff, where I treated rust with vinegar.

This is after grinding off bitumen a bit, can see the smears of red over the light blue stuff....

Hi lovely helpers, The inside of my boat has been breeding insane procrastination. Hoping someone can help! I've read through lots of the posts here, but just to be sure here is the unique situation of similar nature. I have an old boat, it had sunk before I got it, and the interior was full of rust - totally stripped, no ballast so quite ideal. First, I hit the chunks of flake with a crow bar, then a chipping hammer, then an angle grinder, then some sand paper. After I rid all the loose flakes I rinsed it with vinegar and potato, which was pretty effective. There are various remnants of different paints throughout. Mostly a kind of red oxide, and then at the front possibly a bitumen, but I think under all of that is a grey/blue paint.. possibly a zinc thing? Can only attach one photo, will try to add more to clarify. I was given some Micaceous Iron Oxide, and feel hesitant to waste it. Not sure if its similar to Red Oxide, or if it prevents rust coming through? My ideal aim, is to use a paint to seal the rust and protect the metal, so that I can prevent the boat rusting from the inside out. While the boat is stripped it is the best opportunity to do the best job I can.. but I've been hesitating for way too long. I've started grinding off what seems to be the bitumen. As I've seen in some posts the best prep is bare steel, and I really want to do the best I can. I have time but not so much money. Any advice much appreciated. Any knowledge about Micaceous Iron Oxide also would help a lot (can't seem to find much info about its relation with rust or bitumen, whether its best on bare steel etc) Many thanks, Sam (I would like to share a discovery of angle technique: I often see the lament of wire wheels getting clogged with bitumen, or making it too hot and smearing it. I've found it quite effective to hold the grinder so its practically tickling the bitumen, or tap it lightly... it takes it off really quickly. Also best to only spend a few seconds per patch so it doesnt get too hot, and of course better to do on a cool day. Also, after a few minutes, where even the tapping is simply smearing... have a scrap of metal near by and periodically clean the grinder with it. I have been using the same wire wheel on many metres of bitumen with this method. Also, I have seen warnings of taking off the good metal: if you are gentle enough, you will see minimal sparks.. at least with the top layer of bitumen there will hardly any sparks at all, but being observant of what splatters out of the grinder is a way to keep metal loss to a minimum... hope this is helpful to someone..!)

Thanks blackrose for the suggestion of the primer. Had no idea red oxide was no good underwater - it had been confidently recommended by a friend who had some experience doing his boats. So, International Primocon to go over remnants of bitumen. I'm guessing its only really suitable for bitumen blacking, as epoxy needs some metal to soak into? Someone today also informed me about this 480 rubber stuff from arcrite... anyone know of this? Been severely procrastinating, so the hull is still not painted. New steel rusting, but mill scale still holding on. Thinking to have a go with a flapper disc to get it off as its been rusting for a few months now and still there is the scale. Edit: just read through the older replies about Comastic... is it a type of bitumen? Seems popular opinion is not to bother priming? Thanks again for the information & advice

Not particularly looking for any kind of posh finish, in fact I quite like the bodgey look (got the boat with an osb covering which I've grown quite fond of)... just want it to be waterproofed really. Not entirely sure which kind of bitumen I have... it's quite an ominous tin that has nothing but a little sticker saying 'bitumen' on it. If it'll be well enough to put a few coats on the old bitumen I'm more than content to do that. I'll give it all a good scrubbing and picking before painting and hope that'll be sufficient? (I know epoxy has an adverse reaction when applied to old bitumen which is why I got more bitumen. Original intention had been to give a coat of red oxide first, but have since read stuff online that red oxide would also react with the bitumen.)

Wow, such quick response! Thank you all.. much relieved to know I can just paint more bitumen on the old bitumen. Was worried the bare metal had to be prepped. Will have another tap of the old to make sure it really wants to be there, then put on a few more layers. Much gratitude! Thanks, Sama

Hi! I've got an old narrowboat covered in old bitumen. Most of it has been replated but budget ran dry for the front and back, which is a decent thickness anyway. The original plan was to paint a few layers of solvent based red oxide over all of it, then a few layers of bitumen. I'm a bit concerned about painting over the old bitumen. It's really stubborn stuff! Tried to get as much off as possible, but as it's unlikely it will all be removed I'm wondering what the best way would be to go about reblacking it. I've read a little about aluminium based primers, or bitumen sealers. Does anyone know anything about them? Any other suggestions also welcome! Unfortunately no funds for sandblasting or any such luxuries. Grinders just smear it about, and time is short! Any help much appreciated with all the gratitude! Thanks, Sama