

Steve Manc
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Posts posted by Steve Manc
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MtB
Thanks for the reply
I was present when he tried. Said he was worried if he apply more pressure, to secure it or loosen it, it may damage the fitting it's secured to.
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Hi
We have a small leak on a 15mm compression water fitting underneath a gas boiler. Boiler Engineer doesn't want to apply move pressure to untighten the nut just in case he causes damage. The boiler is 15 years plus years old. We have applied WD-40 each day for 5 plus days with little success.
Has anyone used a putty with any success to seal a leak or something different?
I am considering applying the following to the outside of the joint:
JB Water Weld Putty Quickly Sets Under Water Fuel & Oil Resistant.
Please see screenshot of the type of compression fitting the leaking from the top.
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Also people paint narrowboat under M56 bridge next to Midland Chandlers at Preston Brook.
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Again thanks for your comments and recommendations.
Our narrowboat has been grit blasted in 2017 and had two coat epoxy applied. This was carried out by someone else.
Since then it has been out of the water twice for hull inspection etc.
Last time out of the water was 2022 and on this occasion we applied a 2nd coat of epoxy. Having taken guidance off the person who carried out the first coat
Sadly the shed we used now rest the boat on 2 logs , 3 if requested, which isn't enough space to paint the base. Therefore we are now looking for another shed.
We fully repainted the boat above the waterline in 2019 and it is now showing signs of requiring a freshening up. My wife will say it wasn't a pleasant experience. Neither one of us had painted a narrowboat before.
We tried to follow John Bernard Ltd YouTube videos on how to paint a narrowboat.
We don't want to go down the road of spending £8,000 plus for someone else to paint the boat.
Again thanks for your contributions.
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All
Thanks for your comments and recommendations
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43 minutes ago, Steve Manc said:
Hi
I am looking for recommendations for a marina that offers a shed for self painting of narrowboat.
I want access to re paint hull and base with two pack epoxy.
Then paint the rest of the accommodation.
Thanks in advance
Hello Gumpy
Can you share with us all what is so funny 🤔
3 minutes ago, MtB said:
I think Gumpy is trying to imply unicorn poo is easier to find….Ok I hope not, thanks for explaining
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Hi
I am looking for recommendations for a marina that offers a shed for self painting of narrowboat.
I want access to re paint hull and base with two pack epoxy.
Then paint the rest of the accommodation.
Thanks in advance
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34 minutes ago, Ray T said:
Galvanic corrosion happened at a previous marina we moored at. The electrics failed on one boat and the resultant action affected a couple of other boats, neither of which had a galvanic isolator or transformer.
Photo 1 Anode
Photo2 Cathode.
I don't know if I am being over cautious but, even though there is a galvanic isolator fitted to our boat I always disconnect the land line from the electric bollard when not in use.
The mooring we are at now offers the option of storage only not on a pontoon. We will be tied next to other narrowboats ( all in a row )
Therefore approximately a fender gap.
Some of the narrowboats will have electric line to them. I am guessing to enable heating when the weather gets cold.
This why I am asking about galvanic corrosion.
Thanks for your reply
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Tony
Thanks for your reply
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2 minutes ago, Tony Brooks said:
As you need an electrical circuit for galvanic corrosion to take place, coating the hull with an insulator will break that circuit and prevent the corrosion, BUT one scrape or knock that punctures that insulation and any corrosion will be concentrated in that area. Epoxy being more durable than bitumen blacking will prevent galvanic corrosion - until it is punctured.
It won't prevent microbial corrosion unless the hull was properly prepped to kill it. The post you replied to suggest the problem MIGHT have been microbial corrosion, it depends on what came out from under the rusty blisters.
I would suggest that if you regularly use a shoreline, you would be well advised to fit some form of galvanic isolator as well as two pack epoxy.
Producing 240V AC on the boat from a generator or inverter should not be capable of causing what is normally called galvanic corrosion, but a 12/24V DC fault might, but less likely. Faults on nearby boats using shorelines can cause galvanic corrosion on your boat.
Our boat was grit blasted when we purchased it. We then had two pack painted on.
It was last out of the water two years ago. Only damage to the paint was a scrap on the base which I put down to hitting a Tesco shopping trolley in Stalybridge on the Huddersfield Narrow Canal.
CRT were nearby and pulled the trolley out. They said they pulled out over 12 a week in that location. Also said it was worst at the local Aldi.
Back to the boat. Two years ago we applied another coat of epoxy.
The two moorings we have had since buying the boat I have always asked not to be moored near other boats that use shoreline electric.
This year we have decided to moor the boat where our summer cruise finished.
We chose a marina on the understanding we would be moored with other boats not on electric. Sadly this hasn't happened.
My concern is could we be effected by galvanic corrosion?
Thanks in advance.
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On 14/10/2015 at 16:17, Señor Chris said:
Boat came out today for the first time in 3 years. The hull below the water line was covered in small lumps of what look liked wet rust which were pressure-hosed off to reveal small areas of clean metal. Some pitting but nothing too serious.
It was suggested to me that this was not rust but was in fact galvanic corrosion and that I should fit a galvanic isolator. However, I have since read that these devices are to provide isolation from shore power which I never use. I also read that 'earth leakage' in the boat wiring can be another cause.
So my question is how do I work out the cause of the corrosion? Is the fact that it occurs over the full depth of the hull and not just at the waterline significant? Is there a way to detect earth leakage? Or have I simply left it too long since the previous blacking?
Senior Chris
Hope you are still on the forum!
Are you saying two pack epoxy painted on the hull and base after being grit blasted will prevent galvanic corrosion?
Thanks in advance
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6 hours ago, ditchcrawler said:
I guess you have T'ed into the wrong spot. I isolate the water tank, take the lid of the pump strainer and run the pump, it pumps air quite nicely
Wished I new that
6 hours ago, jonathanA said:Why ?;
I don't get it sorry. Just turn the supply off at the tank. Open taps with water pump off. Drain down on cold at stern ( in our bathroom). Leave cauliflower alone. Leave all taps and shower taps open. Job done has worked so far down to -12 back in 2012 or when ever we had that really cold spell. Cauliflower is under bed and we are usually at the boat Once or twice a month in winter. No shoreline. Guess depends how much of a risk you can live with. I can live with this....
We purchased our narrowboat in 2017. I asked a old engineer to do a service and show me how to do it. Since then I do ours.
During the service I asked him to show me how to winterise the boat. He said run the water pump until the water tank is empty. Run it through all taps to ensure no water in them. He lived nearby and said we don't have bad winters now therefore this was adequate.
That year we found the mixer tap in the kitchen the spout has been pushed off. Also a fitting on the plastic pipework was loose and some water had come out.
The people who built the inside of the boat sadly build bathroom cupboard and lining plus the kitchen units over fittings in the fresh water pipework. If one of these came loose it would be a nightmare to strip out just to get access.
I would rather do over the top to avoid any issues.
Today having failed with pushing air through once the fresh water tank was empty. I isolated the hot water tank. I put Star Bright into the water tank and ran it around the pump and pipework and through the taps. Left the taps open and as recommended on here left the shower hose in the bath.
It maybe over the top. Hopefully there will be no issues. We don't visit the boat in the winter.
As other people the hot water tank is under the bed. Hopefully it will be ok.
All thanks for your comments it is very helpful.
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I have cut into the cold pipe from the water pump leading to the taps and hot water tank.
The joint is after the pump and pre pressure vessel.
I have hooked up a car tyre pump to force air down the pipe to force the water out of the pipes and hot water tank.
The pump has built up the 5 bar pressure and nothing coming out of the cold water tap or hot water tap.
Any reason why this will not work?
I got the idea off another narrowboater who contacted up to his shower fitting on the bathroom tap. He emptied his hot water tank!
Thanks in advance
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Winterising the boat. Are boaters still following the method below and getting no freezing damage?
Isolating the cold water tank, switching off the water pump, open all water taps, place shower hose in the shower tray/bath.
Thanks in advance
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Fair point 🤔😁
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I went to change the oil in our gearbox on our narrowboat this morning.
When I took the screwed cap with dip stick attached out. I dipped it with a plastic tie. The oil is clear as the day it went in two years ago.
I normally change it every two years.
I used the same oil as my Isuzu 35.
Does it still need changing if it is not discoloured ?
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On 22/08/2024 at 08:33, Chris T said:
After a few cleans with Renovo, our cover still had some small white spots, which I assumed to be mould / mildew based.
I tried a bit of Mould Magic from Must Have Ideas (I've used it on black mould around the window frames at home) which has removed the white spots, but hasn't affected the colour of the cover.
This was only a few weeks ago and only a small patch, so I don't know if it's a long term solution, but it cleaned it up sufficiently for me to finally feel it was ready to reapply the Fabsil.
Chris
Is this internally?
Thanks for your reply
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One year on
Cratch exterior:
I used Kinver Algae Zapper for the green growth on the exterior of our canvas cratch cover. I used it on the first week of June 24. It turned white within days and as of 21st August 24 it hasn't currently returned.
Cratch interior:
I also applied it on the inside of the cratch and sadly the white growth has returned. I have sprayed a small patch with white vinegar and it has turned black 😔.
Anyone come up with a solution to solve this problem?
Thanks in advance
Sadly
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On 15/08/2024 at 22:24, LadyG said:
After thorough cleaning wipe every surface with kitchen towel to remove any moisture, check it is clean.. Spray with kitchen Dettol spray, leave door open to some degree.
Same procedure throughout boat. Everything clean and dry.
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When we bought our narrowboat I asked an old timer did he have a tip when winterising the boat.
He said remove the curtains to allow the sun to warm the boat and dry out any moisture.
We remove the curtains and put up net curtains.
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Double entery could be because I added a tag word to my original post !
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Hi
What do people do with their fridge freezer when they winterise their boat?
We normally switch off our 12 volt fridge freezer. De frost it, clean it and leave the door open to stop mould building up in it.
Thanks in advance
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Hi
What do people do with their fridge freezer when they winterise their boat?
We normally switch off our 12 volt fridge freezer. De frost it, clean it and leave the door open to stop mould building up in it.
Thanks in advance
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5 minutes ago, hider said:
Diluting Vactan with water, it turns white so I suspect that you had some not dry or cured areas.
Its basically tannic acid and a water based vinyl polymer mix.
Hider
Thanks for the information
Swans attacked at Winsford Marina
in General Boating
Posted
This was posted on Facebook Group Daisy Nook. Said it happened at Winsford Marina. It may be of interest if these are locals.