kevin123

yes it not far from finished just on final fit in side as im going to live on it ,it isnt historically as in your boat as it has full canopy etc as when i bought it but at least she will be back on the water ,

thanks have worked of that have the rgb numbers of the flag colours now and ral numbers thanks

yep im going for red and dark blue border is there any paint spec as in bs or ral or just an red and blue near as bright red and navy blue

does anybody know the colour red used for the grand union canal co also the blue border i have an historic and would like to paint near as to there colour

you are lucky if you have never had porosity with mig , every welder i know of including myself get porosity but just make sure if you do grind back compleatly and reweld , there are many reasons for porosity if you are laying long runs spatter in shroud can stop gas coverage wind is big factor lose of gas, gun kinks contaminats in steel to name few , i have my weld mpi tested regular and to the naked eye you can not see some pin holes but when mpi is carried out they soon stand out ,

like you daniel i to have had the pleasure of welding the main frames of quite a few main frame chassis at jcb and mig is fine as you say most welding is carried out using mig as faster to lay down , and structurally sound , but depending on material you would have to find the right wire for the job and also conditions inside outside flux cored argo etc , great pictures of porosity first one shows 3 small pin hole but if you were to grind that back you would find it would look like a areo chocolate bar upto a least 1" or more either end , just a note always grind start and stops of welds with before next run to make sure of good penetration

iv been welding 30 some years and if i dont weld for while it is like riding a bike on easier welds like horizontal but vertical and overhead you would need a bit of time just to angles and flow rates but you soon back into it ,also depending which rods you use can make a diffrence like iv said iv been using low hydrogen rods 7018 which i took to like duck to water, but one of my work pals carnt use but is fine with standard 6013

depending how big a job and your welding experience , above water line just minor repairs mig will be fine on your boat , if you havent welded before practice iv taught people to weld with mig in about 20 mins and they would be fine to horizontal weld ( thats why they call it monkey wire ) as it can be picked up quite quickly if you have to do vertical and havent had much experence you could pulse weld , meaning start weld with a spot weld and repeat in about 1-2 second intervals moving slowly vertical allow weld puddle to cool then repeat , it will keep weld from dropping away and looking like bird sh.. t i believe the term is lol ,but practice first good luck

i have just over plated my 1936 using both stick and mig , stick for mild to old steel hull, i used 7018 low hydrogen rods as 6013 tend to burn to hot and will laminte / fracture and you have to peen for you life to destress welds , i carried out a few test prior to starting the job to get best match rods in a fracture test 6013 were very brittle whilst 7018 were very ductile , the new base to new side mig welded to save time as my boat is 21.6 mtrs long which is a lot of welding and normal modern day mild is fine with mig , mig in wind over 4-5 miles an hour you will probably get porosity unless you use flux cored wire , concave welding is bad mayby vertical downhand , should be convex , plate size depends on your pockets iv used 10mm base 6mm walls which i believe is the standard used on modern boats now but you could use 8mm depending how bad your base has worn / overplating fully weld , there are diffrent way to weld base you can place plates on floor fully weld top then place boat on to plates put sides on weld then lift v out underside weld overhead , i didnt have that option so on stands fitted base plates welded sides , then v out base underside root run 2 run then capping run full penetration , rather that puddle weld as the boat is 80 years old even though was only a few places where it was 4mm thick , i cut holes in floor welded tubes through to new floor then plated over to sandwhich old floor this allowed me to support the new floor and keep level underside , iv also put 50mm x 12mm flat bar around base to side wall to act as ware plate and triple up on welded joint , if you use stick you can get decent invertor welding sets for £200-£250 200 amp can use 3.25 or 4mm rods np at all

hi what is the age of your boat is it a steel iron or mild steel

having a engineering buissness i use paint on steel all the time if you go to pdi paint in stoke they will give you advise , mix paint to any colour or ral specs you want ,all for steel i use a lot of quick drying paint , hope this helps regards kev

i have the boat out of the water she had 2 holes in bottom some one had post create repaired (now fixed) drove her up from nuneaton np , the main reason for replate was 4mm in places on bottom sides were ok , could have just repaired but as i intend to live on her decided to fully repair with 10mm botttom , am also making a few changes , moved the front bulkhead back so got a bit more sitting out area in the summer , making her a large one bed , also going to fit new windows

cheers all good advise , iv got to put batterns on first as i removed all others as the roof was leaking in places where previous owner screwed through roof and gave it afew leeks also he had put side battens in not fixed correctly so i had leeks have lifted the roof of refitted and sealed all around , not leeking now tested in this rain where having ,

so install electrics water etc then foam , iv plated to water line , along the sides and about 200mm front and rear as the only wear was to the bottom in the middle which went to about 4mm in places so decided to just compleatly plate bottom and hopefully give the boat another 80 years , i did measure before removing d bars and was around 7 in one place , i will check tommorow now to find exact width ,the boat wieght was 21 ton when i took her out , now gutted i would think took at least a 1-1,5 ton out the new plates will add about another 4 ton so she will be around 24- 25 tons empty then balace water tanks fitted out around 27-28 tons i would estmate , but it was an working boat so used to carry around 28 ton of coal so should be ok i would think

is spray foam the best as i was thinking of 25mm board panel insolation for walls , and if so what should the thickness be ,and already feel like sleeping for a month lol

hi some may remeber an earlier post last year iv bought the narrow boat slough , been some time iv been on here ,anyway update so far i started working on her about three weeks prior to christmas iv compleatly stripped out the boat so empty hull ,have overplated the hull 10mm base plate with 6mm side walls , at the moment the side plates are fully welded across the top everything else tacked into position ready for fully welding which i will do as and when i can with the weather conditions at the moment ,i fixed a leaking roof moved the front bulkhead back so as i can have a larger area at the front to sit out in the better weather days ,in the next few weeks i want to start to refit her out , so i come to ask what would be the best way to fit her out im asuming insolation is essential which would you say would be the best method , also what do you think the sequence for fitting out should be , any thoughts or help gratefully recieved regards kev

well guys lots for me to take in trying to keep up, the pic jeannette put on was one i saw trawling the internet a few days ago i believe this is the slough and brighton with brother and sister /sister in law , would anybody know approx weight of the slough as she stands now as im trying arranging to get her lifted , old owner recons around 20-24 ton but mobile crane company says normally about 18 ton empty as it is now with engine out all water tanks empty , going to go big an arrange 80 ton crane i think to be on safe side the draft at the moment is a little over 2' in the water what would be about right when she back in the water for normal cruising regards kevin

the old fellows surname was barrett carnt remember his first name think was dave mayby something mentioning the name barrett some where will give more history he new that it was with the buttie slinfold and also the brother and sister who worked slough and the brighton

yep any info is good thanks although im a bit away from painting yet , i think the motor is good enough it says it is 55hp and also it is the original motor that was with the boat , fist of all im arranging to collect it transport by road to my works then have it inspected to find out all the problem ,im contacting tony cullenmore if he can lift it for me the old owner said he will get it towed there for me

i looked at the boat the owner had removed the paint he said it was yellow and blue carnt remeber wording but that was the colour when it was sold after i believe 1954 i will get details of him next week but looked at the boat and under all the layers it was red so i thought it mite be the the red and navy blue as i read the blue was a war time colour , the chap iv bought it of was born on the canals and showed me pictures of him as a child with his parents all living in a buttie , he seams to know a lot of people and history on the canals , he told me the boat used to go up into the potteries , ill get the name of the livery he said juring the week, no it is all steel bottom in side you can see rivits but not out side so i assume its been plated

thanks will take on board thats another job lol regards kev

hi guys seen boat looking at the side of the hull looks about 8mm plate round the back is 12mm coiuldnt tell the base but seam resonbly thick felt under the bottom of the boat but not the usual flat plate it had like a bump guard round the bottom edge , it looks like it has been part plated before as no rivits only at the ends of boat , at the miniute draft is about 18' mayby 2' but it has no engine in it and is quite empty 3 water tanks stainless steel 250 lts each empty at present , it designed to carry about 28 ton , felt along boat underwater line few pits no much anti fouling , the boat as only ever had 12v power , under the decks like mentioned above seen some rail as ballast , there was small amount of water in engine room but pump is working clearing this out, as there is no engine only prop shaft when i moved there is a brass joint and a small trickle of water came from that iv been told when engine is put back and the seal (like oily rope ) that should stop that , hull on inside took up a few boards looked solid enough but like said above will get survey done , as im no expert , yes should be low cost labour wise this is a project myself and son will carry out most of the work (more like my son lol ) , seen the engine runs fine standing in his garden started of battery not on any mountings as such but no rocking about sounded fine ,thanks again for advise came in handy when i looked at boat gave me something to look for , it will need work which i thought it would but hopefully with a bit of tlc i will get there , fingers crossed with the inspection , ill post in history and heritage section from now as you have helped me and thank you all for your comments

well willl set of in 30 mins see what iv got my self into , i found out the boat was with the buttie slinford dont know if its still around also do you know if the boat was red with blue outline , or dark blue with light blue outline would like to repaint as near as possible these seam to be the colours iv found out about it regards kevin

sry lol ment 10 mm and thanks for welcome

the replating shouldnt be too much as iv got my own fabrication company so they should be able to do with coded welders mpi testing etc so just cost of plate for me luckly but ill get survey carried out first i think but 100mm bottom 6 mm sides is the norm i take it