Creel
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Posts posted by Creel
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I have a jabsco water pump on my engine but it is the best driven one was peeking when I got it i got seals for it from my local bearing suplyer
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Looks similar to the SW 2A in my boat
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had this on my gear box had to renew the oil seals front and backBought a sump pump as i couldn't get the drain plug on the box.
Used the pump till it was sucking nothing.
Refilled with fresh oil ep 80/90.
Started the engine up let it run five minutes.
Took the gear box cover of and the oil is the same colour
As the emulsified oil that i had just removed.
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thanks I have now worked out what is what's you are right it is not complicatedAs it's quite a simple piece of equipment, perhaps post the things you need to know and those who understand French can translate for you.
Thanks for all the help I now know how it works. these forums are the best
Cheers Neil
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thanks that's made it clearerHaving waded through some of the French manual, (which I can't seem to find any more: I keep getting pay to download sites!) it looks a fairly basic set. (Which is a good thing!)
As far as I can make out, the US/Int button (switch between internationally agreed channels and US channels) and the Sea/River button (River is the River Rhine) are disabled, at least on the sets sold in France.
thanks I have already down loaded it but I can not understand French and I can not get Google translate to translate itManual in French is available for free here:
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www.coverdales.net/rt650manual.pdf
That's for the rt650 not the rt160 think the rt160 is a older radio
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Hi got a navicom RT 160 marine radio but no user's manual can any one help with one all the one's on the Internet are in French I can't find one in English thanks
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You never packed tea and biscuits with my recent order
False advertising!
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hi Richard when I start the rebuild how do I go about getting parts of youYes
Been there, done that - picked the springs up out of the box...
Richard
Neil
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thanks do you have a good diagram of the gear box As the one in the manual is not a exploded one if not when I start to rebuild I will have a lot of questions it's mostly the spacers and washers that I am not to sure about . NeilYes. We have manuals, forward clutches, reverse bands, pump spindles, gaskets, oil, expertise, tea, biscuits...
Richard
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Hi here are some pics of my gear box after I striped it for a rebuild not to bad will need both bearings and seals and a good clean But had a bit of a desaster had all the bits set out on a table in the order they were taken apart the table got knocked over I think I can work out where most bits go but could do with a exploded diagram of the gear box as the one in the manual is not that good can any a one help
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Just a quick up date I have the gearbox out it is down at my pals work shop hope to get it striped this Saturday
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Got my gear box ready to lift out hope to get it out next weekend will post pics of the rebuilding of it hopefully it won't be to bad I will know what gaskets and seals I will need when I get it striped
Neil
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thank Richard when I get the box out and striped I will know what I will need then I will get intouch with sueSue (Mrs Tawny Owl) can help. I know we have the gaskets, seals and forward cone clutches, I'm not sure about brake bands at the moment
Richard
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Tried a flush no luck will have to remove box and strip it down then rebuild it . Where will I get gasket from and seals presuming I will need them
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I don't know all I know is the boat has not been on the water for 3 years the reduction box oil is clean all so the automatic float switch was not turning the bilge pump on so the gear box could have been under waterAgree with Bizzard, but not sure how that much water would get past the dip stick in normal use.
Has the gearbox been under water or partially submerged at some time?
Also, the LH150s I've seen have a seperate reduction box. What's the oil like in that?
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Yes it is a LH150 gear box hydraulicApart from speculation as to the gearbox model being LH150 - has the OP actually confirmed the make and model ?
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Thanks will try the flush will get some EP80/90 how much will I needLH150's don't usually have oil coolers so I suspect that what the OP said about the boat being full of water at some time and it getting in past the dipstick might be more likely.
Richard does a lot of work on these so feel free to ask questions, and I've just had a batch of reverse bands relined to go with the relined cones I had a while ago, just in case the linings of either have been destroyed by the gloop.
Sue
Also these gearboxes are designed to fail in forward, you need oil pressure to pull them out of forward into neutral or reverse so if that gloop doesn't allow enough oil pressure to be generated it'll stay in forward. Cheapest and easiest first option is to flush out and try with new oil as has been suggested.
In case you didn't know, for the Lister gearboxes you need EP80 / 90 gear oil.
Sue
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Thanks that was my first thought to flush it will give it a tryIf this is a Lister LH150 box there are two reasons why it stalls the engine when trying reverse. One is loss of hydraulic pressure causing the forward gear cone clutch not to disengage when moving the lever towards neutral and reverse and trying to engage both forward and reverse at the same time. The second is the forward cone clutch has jambed (stuck) in the hub and won't pull out. A good flush out with a 50/50 mix of paraffin and oil and running the engine whilst trying to disengage it and then drain and fill with fresh Hypoy oil, often fixes that. I doubt if its the adjustment as the forward gear clutch loses its play as the lining wears not increase the free play. Of course it could be more serious like bust hydraulic seals or badly worn down to the rivets cone clutch lining and jambing in the groove they've made in the hub.. Judging by the jollop what was in the box the cone clutch has probably stuck in the hub with a mixture of oil, water, rust and fibre lining dust, I'd try the flushing and fresh oil first.
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thanks for the reply boat has not been on the water for 3 years no leaks from the box so I think the boat has been full of water at some time and the water has got past the dip stick looks like I will have to get the box out and strip it downThat is emulsified oil (water and oil mixed) and 'beaten' to a thickish consistency.
Somehow getting water into your gearbox - the problem will not be solved by replacing the oil.
Work is needed to be done to the mechanicals - maybe just a cheap 'seal' maybe more severe, but, it will only get worse by not attending to it.
Very few broken mechanical things mend themselves with further usage.
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Hi that checked the oil in the hydraulic gear box see pic . engine runs when gear liver is in the ahead position but stops dead when I put it in to reverse . checked oil and found what's in the pic this was nearly up to the top of the dip stick any one got any ideas as I can not afford a reconditioned one . I will put fresh oil in the box and try it again this is not all the oil that came out
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so I don't need shims thanks Richard for your help still want to fit electric oil pressure sender can you mark where to fit it on the photo I put on a previous post for me all so is there a diagram of the piping for the water pipesThere you go. Much more sensible than shims
Richard
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yes it has the larger diam bit on the shaftSo it isn't exactly the same. Does the shaft have a larger diameter bit that fits between the two bearings?
Richard
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thanks Richard the shaft on my one is stainless steel with two bearings and two water seals all the bearings are held in by a cerclipe will this make a difference or will I still need the spacers cheers NeilHere you go:
The spacer and shims go on the bronze shaft, between the bearing and the end of the input shaft
Richard
jabsco water pump
in Lister
Posted
Ha ha should have been leaking and gear driven