Tiggs
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Everything posted by Tiggs
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I'd say the first thing you need to find in London would be an available mooring.
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I usually just put some insulation tape around (like 5-10 turns) them at the depth I want to cut to if cutting too deep would be a problem.
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You did check my pictures in the gallery? I have more but they are similar and are of lower quality, but could send them to you if you provide an e-mail address for me, by personal message on this site.
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Batteries are very simple. You always need twice as much amp hours as you think you might and they only every last half as long as you want them to. The best domestic boat batteries I ever had were some gell types that were secondhand from a racing yacht - they replaced them every season. The second best were some semi-traction batteries, good but expensive. Both lasted twice / three times as long as so called "leisure" batteries. You need a versatile battery area and connection system to take different sizes to take advantage of opportunities. These days I would invest in as much solar panel as I could reasonably tolerate on my roof, reduce my consumption as much as possible with LED lighting etc (and other use reduction tips in other threads on this forum and others) and use leisure batteries because they are cheap.
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Nottingham canal festival October 2015.
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From the album: NottsCanalFestival2015
If you were expecting something from the Robin Hood movies you will be dissappointed.© I place in the public domain - please use if you want
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From the album: NottsCanalFestival2015
A view from a bridge© I place in the public domain - please use if you want
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From the album: NottsCanalFestival2015
© I place in the public domain - please use if you want
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From the album: NottsCanalFestival2015
© I place in the public domain - please use if you want
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From the album: NottsCanalFestival2015
© I place in the public domain - please use if you want
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From the album: NottsCanalFestival2015
© I place in the public domain - please use if you want
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From the album: NottsCanalFestival2015
© I place in the public domain - please use if you want
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From the album: NottsCanalFestival2015
© I place in the public domain - please use if you want
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From the album: NottsCanalFestival2015
© I place in the public domain - please use if you want
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From the album: NottsCanalFestival2015
© I place in the public domain - please use if you want
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From the album: NottsCanalFestival2015
© I place in the public domain - please use if you want
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From the album: NottsCanalFestival2015
© I place in the public domain - please use if you want
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From the album: NottsCanalFestival2015
© I place in the public domain - please use if you want
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From the album: NottsCanalFestival2015
© I place in the public domain - please use if you want
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From the album: NottsCanalFestival2015
© I place in the public domain - please use if you want
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Just been to Nottingham "Canal Festival". Not much there. P.
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Yes, 2" will work OK - as far as this goes 2" is about 3". I'm struggling to see how this one is going slow slowly, suspect prop damage, i.e. one blade is twisted or bent, not chipped or broken, so feels OK on its own but does not line up with the others. This would also shake the rudder.
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You can take some out of the front perhaps - this will make the stern sit lower, but don't take out too much, otherwise the whole boat will be less into the water. Vibration on the tiller - if the tiller is in it's skeg and it is not loose in it's bearing, then it may be too close to the prop. Your own boat may have a thicker bottom plate - 6mm or 1/4 inch was normal, but some are 10mm or even 12mm - so will not need much ballast. If the engine is flat, the prop should not slope, unless it is fitted with universal joints both ends! Flat is normal for a narrowboat. The top of the prop should be minimum about 2" bellow the counter and about the same from the bottom. The counter should be about 3" into the water. You do have an anti-cavitaion plate on the weed hatch?
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Bosley Locks
