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Posts posted by Kalapattar
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Hi! Can anyone recommend a make/ model washing machine to cope with a 2200w output generator please? Even though it’s 2200w I think the max is 1700w
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1 hour ago, Alan de Enfield said:
That is a sad sight.
Was it a project that someone was working on? It looks remarkably 'empty' inside, even for a GRP or wooden top boat there is normally furniture, kitchen, stove/fire etc remains after a fire.
A lot of stuff was removed and on the towpath! Generators, gas bottles, and other stuff but no stove or chimney or appliances
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An arson attack has been confirmed by the fire service a few days ago at Boxmoor Hemel Hempstead and Herts police are asking for any witnesses to contact lisa.brown@herts.police.uk
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Ok! Well Ive taped with aluminium foil the connections to make them more secure
1 minute ago, Tonka said:Do not forget that you will have to take the flu apart occasionally to clean out the cobwebs. If you don't the fridge stops working
Yes I clean the flue and flame jet every now and then
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Yes, gases rise out, and I think the connections are loose to help prevent forced gusts of air extinguishing the pilot flame
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12 minutes ago, Tony Brooks said:
So?
Nothing to do with water from the shower and large enough to supply sufficient gas to the water heater.
The 22mm is to minimise friction losses in the water supply to the shower.
Ok, I thought you were stating gas pipe
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14 minutes ago, Tony Brooks said:
Mr K, learn exactly how such heaters work and then you will know your chances of doing anything to improve your shower experience are not far short of zero. They deliberately restrict the water flow to get the water hotter and the time the water spends in the heat exchanger is very short so it will never absorb that much heat. You can have a reasonable (but nowhere near domestic showers) flow of neat cold water or a low flow of hotter water. Thats it.
If you want a better shower then it will be expensive and use more gas. You are talking a gas or diesel boiler and calorifier plus the electricity to run them with 22mm pipe work.
Ok, gas pipe is 15mm
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9 minutes ago, Jen-in-Wellies said:
PWM = pulse width modulation. MPPT = maximum power point tracking. MPPT will get more out of your panels in sub-optimal conditions like the early morning, or late evening. Beware that if buying an MPPT controller, a lot of the cheap no name Chinese ones will actually be PWM, but with two, or three charging strategies for different conditions and called MPPT when they are not.
Ok ta!
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9 minutes ago, Kalapattar said:
Yes I understand that. I’m trying to make hot water more efficient and use less gas
I’m trying to increase hot water supply under pressure to make a more powerful supply
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Yes I understand that. I’m trying to make hot water more efficient and use less gas
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Hi! A PWM controller was stated in another post! What is that please?
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On 13/04/2021 at 14:12, Alan de Enfield said:
You will 'lose' more output if you do not have your panels mounted with a suffcient air gap underneath (they get to hot) and will gain 30% by having an MPPT controller instead of a MWP controller, or by buying 'low light' panels instead of 'normal' ones.
Choice of equipment AND installation practices will affect your solar output way more than having a 'tilt' on them.
My controller is what was supplied with panel! Not sure if it’s MPPT or MWP
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Hi! Shower hot water flow not powerful enough!
turning up water temp on boiler and mixing cold to required temp must be the only way to achieve this I suppose! -
Hi! I’ve fitted a pressure pump and hot water output is no difference! What about ‘power shower’ heads? Would that increase flow? Booster pumps maybe? Ta!
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1 minute ago, Alan de Enfield said:
And, I beleive that even today the are not allowed to be used on Petrol engined boats due to the explosion risk of a flame low down at floor level.
Ok, well mine is diesel powered
2 minutes ago, Kalapattar said:Ok, well mine is diesel powered
I have a petrol generator!
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4 minutes ago, Tracy D'arth said:
Lots of the flues on these gas fridges were never fitted, crazily venting straight into the cabin. They were never approved for boats by the manufacturers either!
Ok, I have a recess in the gunwhale that sits a vent hole and cover presumably for such a flue!
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3 minutes ago, Tony Brooks said:
On the Electrolux version there were on;y three parts. A sort of drunken T piece that pushed down on top of the fridge flue and a long pipe that slotted into the "hull plate" so not much room for play but they were certainly not tight as such.
Ok, loosely fitted to prevent rain or condensation running back down to burner perhaps?
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Just now, Tony Brooks said:
Then that answers which fridge it is. Remember that hot gasses pass along the flue so whatever tape you use needs to allow for that. I expect aluminium tape would do but I think. I would use a short self tapper in each joint.
Hi! I’m going to use aluminium tape. I’m just wondering why parts are loosely connected
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Ok, well the flue is positioned to exhaust out of the side behind fridge! I’m just thinking of taping parts together for more of a secure fit
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Hi! Thanks for your reply! I have no intention of using 12v. Only gas as stated in the topic. Ta!
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7 minutes ago, Phoenix_V said:
there is some stuff on installing one here, note a small (self tapping type screw I think) secures the top part. http://www.obrienscamping.co.uk/articles/FridgeInstall.htm
Being a boat I think you have to ignore the bit about cutting a hole in the floor to let any gas escape leave the vehicle.
Ok, thanks for your post! It looks like flue parts are for flexibility!
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Hi! It’s an old 3 way fridge and exhaust flue kits are still available on EBay
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Hi all! I’m just wondering why my exhaust flue on a Dometic refrigerator is in parts? Is this just for flexibility? Should I tape them together to make it more secure because the joins are all very loose? Ta!
Suitable 240v washing machine
in Boat Equipment
Posted
Ok thanks
Hi! I used to have one but problem was emptying it fully with the hose outlet at the bottom