Boat_Around_Si

Last piece of advice please, I'm moving onto a CRT mooring and they've stated that; "The electricity provided at this site is 16 amps. Please ensure that you obtain a 32amp plug and boat cable for the electricity supply to hook up to." Is this because a 16amp cable would overheat? I will ask my electrician this too, but if I have to order a 32a cable ahead of time its good to know. I already own a 16a rated cable. The circuit breaker is 30a. Thanks!

Hi thanks for your replies everyone. I spent and afternoon rooting around following cables, couldn't find any grounding on the 240v so I've decided to get an electrician in. Definitely better to be safe than sorry! Its not something I feel comfortable with messing around on my own. Thanks for point it all out and getting me to check it ?

Thanks all for your feedback and questions. I asked an electrician to test whether it was grounded a few years ago, I had some vibrations from by Macbook, thought it was the inverter but turns out just dodgy apple products.. But he confirmed it was but I don't remember him showing me where it was. It was professionally fitted out originally so it must have been well grounded - thats not enough for my piece of mind though! I'd like to see/inspect it but I have yet to find where it is grounded... hopefully its not behind panelling as the plugs go all the way down the boat. What are the usual places a boat is grounded? It was build by Stoke on Trent boat builders/Longport Wharf 30 years ago There must be a way I can check it is grounded with a multimeter too.. BEngo - yes it is setup to run the immersion heater off whatever is plugged in, strange I know, but I've always just used the Eberspacher not the immersion for that reason so not to kill the batteries

Hi rgriffiths, did you find the part number out for this temperature sensor? also where did you get it from? I am after the same part and tried diperk (with my engine serial number) but they have sent the wrong sensor They sent this one which is different when I wanted the one you posted Thanks!

Good afternoon, I am soon to be connecting to shoreline for the first time after being a CC for 6 years. I wanted to run a few things past anyway who have previously done it, before purchasing. I have a shoreline connection and an inverter, internally switched with two 3-pin shoreline plugs going into an RCD (see photos). Then going off to the plugs or an immersion heater (which I havent used being a CC'er). I have 1 starter battery and 4 x leisure batteries Numax CXV31MF 110ah (another starter on a bow thruster too). My 12v and 240v system are separate, I have a good inverter so I'm looking to charge the 12v/batteries from the shoreline for my 12v needs (fridge, lights, water pump, eberspacher etc) This is what I'm thinking of getting; A Victron IP22 Blue Smart Charger 30a going straight onto the leisure batteries below via plug in the engine room https://www.victronenergy.com/chargers/blue-smart-ip22-charger A plug in galvanic Isolator can go outside or probably room for it inside too https://galvanic-isolator.co.uk/product/galvanic-isolator-500a-surge-with-extra-protection-status-alert-and-ac-bypass-capacitor/ Does it sound about right? Ive heard some good things about the IP22 from these forums Many thanks! p.s. the charger is not in the basic wiring diagram

Thank you - I had a look on ASAP but couldn't find one that matched - I will use Diperk with the engine serial number to make sure I get the correct sensor.

Keeping Up - correct they were switched, the top wire was the alarm (needs recrimping) and the bottom wire turned the temperature dial to full (thanks Tracy D'arth). But it did not stay readying full hot when the wire was disconnected, as Tracy D'arth suggested above, or was that a typo?... So I'm assuming fault must be with the sensor - thank you all for your insights

Hi ditchcrawler - yes it have two wires to the sensor. both green - you can see the photo a few post up above the alternator. Keeping up - thanks, they may well have been swapped, I have tried just switching them over before but no joy I'll try holding the other one against the engine and seeing if I get a hot reading tomorrow

Hi Tracy D'arth, Thanks for clarifying, I did as you suggest - the dial didn't move but the alarm behind the panel went off. So it must be sensing that it went straight to hot - guess that means the dial has a problem?

Thank you for the reply Tracy D'arth, Can you please be more detailed? Do you meant take top connection from the sensor and connect it directly onto the engine? If you could spell it out in layman's terms it would be much appreciated ... Thank you! (I will re-crimp that wire with a new connecter when I've got down to the problem, thanks)

Hi All - A big thank you everyone for your help! esp Keeping Up - fuel filter changed and rocker cover gasket changed sucessfully. Hopefully this thread will be helpful for other in the future. As I have a few knowledgable Perkins people here... I'm getting no reading on the engine temperature gauge up top. Using the voltmeter I'm getting readings of 12.7v and 7.2v up top at the a gauge and the wires down by the sensor are around 5.3v. Does the sensor require 6v to work? (I'm guessing it doesn't need 12v..) It looks pretty old, quite rusty, if its the likely culprit I will replace it, or should I look at any other areas first? See attached photo - again, very grateful or any help or ideas!

Thanks Keeping Up & Tony, I have bought parts from diperk using my engine serial number, very helpful I recommend them. Thanks for your advice I will check what you have suggested. I'm still looking for anyone who know what this is coming off the diesel feed, if not I will investigate when I get my parts Assuming its a separator (the right black pipe has nothing to do with it) Thanks!

Hi Keeping Up - thank you for all that, info the detail is very helpful! I feel a lot more confident about doing it now, it confirmed a lot of things. I will have to investigate the "separator".. The oil had gone down the side of the engine at a few points from the rocker cover, only a small leak but noticeable especially on new paint. I guess I don't know if it is the gasket 100% but its definitely coming from that join all around. Ex Brummie - yes I think you are right, I has got worse since I tightened it so I should try loosen it off. Although I did tighten it to get rid of the leak in the first place. Interesting I had assumed it was under pressure. It was leaking and I havent touched it in years so there is something not right there, my only thought is it could be the gasket.

Apologies for the double post, I've been doing some investigating and if anyone in the know can answer these questions that would be helpful In this photo the fuel goes into something directly from the fuel tank, I'm guessing its a separator? if so do I take that apart? on the right above the blue And then from the silver cylinder (separator?) into this image below with the red arrow. Is that the pump for clearing air out of the fuel? is it finger operated? (also missed a bit of the painting underneath...) So my thinking is, after you have changed the fuel filter you can pump the fuel in till there are no spurts of air and its just fuel. Again, many thanks to whomever can sit down and answer some of my fairly basic questions...

Good afternoon, 1. Can anyone please talk me through changing a fuel filter on my Perkins MC42, I've never done it before and its long overdue. I'm scared of getting air in it, but I'm told its fairly easy if you follow the correct procedure. The current fuel filter is an Motaquip VFF285 which I'm finding hard to cross reference, I bought a Perkins filter from parts4engines ( https://www.parts4engines.com/perkins-perama-mc42-fuel-filter/ ) hoping this is correct replacement 2. I have an oil leak from my Rocker Cover, I have tried tightening it but its not helped, possible made it worse.... Does anyone have a parts number for the Rocker Cover Gasket or know where I could buy one? having no luck locating one online I'm trying to give my engine a good service and paint (which is how I discover the oil leak) so any help you can give me would be much appreciated. Many thanks! See below for my fuel system/filter setup

Hi thanks for your help Flyboy and Harold, I was checking the voltage on the unit as Flyboy suggested and I ended up rummaging around, decided to reconnect a few of the connections. The connections box was getting 14.1v but I couldn't find where to measure the voltage going into the Eberspatcher unit. Anyway, I found a small red button on the top right of the unit hidden behind a pipe that I had forgot existed... possibly a reset? Something I did has breathed life back into it again as it just ran for an hour! I'll know where to look for next time too Thanks again for your prompts - I wouldn't have found it without them! ??

Hi Harold, Thanks for the check list - I'll work my way down them. Lots of those issues wouldn't make it turn off so quickly though, as is my understanding, for instance it take 30/40 seconds for the pump to kick in. The batteries are definitely fine, I will check the wiring to make sure - it's usually the fuse that blows if its a power issue. If anyone has I idea about what could cause such a pre start failure, I'd be interested to see your thoughts! Thanks

Hi Folks, I have a recent problem with my old Eberspacher D5W Pre-hydronic. Other previous issues I've managed to fix but I've searched hight and low and can't find any descriptions of this issue. It probably needs a clean out which I'm going to do but the current issue doesn't look like its related to being caked up, does it? There is no screen and so no error code, the three fuses are all new (white & blue), batteries are full. Last time it was working it didn't go though the shut down procedure, possibly due to power, it just shut straight down as soon as I turned it off - which is unusual as it usually takes a few minutes. Now when I try to turn it on the the immediately stops (like in the video below) You can view the video below & thank you very much for any help or insight! ? I'm located near Uxbridge & if you know of anyone local that has knowledge of these. Video Eberspacher D5W start up issue.mp4 Photo

Thanks so much for your replies! I found the bee and squashed it - with a ground loop noise isolator - thanks Jen_in_Wellies for the suggestion. I was worried something was happening to the electrical grounding on the bot, but now I feel better! Have a great week everyone ??

Thanks everyone! So I've got a Sony car radio installed and its the aux feed from the TV to the radio where I noticed the buzz, sometimes it takes 15mins for buzz to start which is strange. It actually looks like a good quality LED bulb and I have had others from that make that I've been impressed with - but I will contact them and look at the names you've suggested. Thanks!

Yes is it a LED 6w Bonlux Edison AC/DC 12/24v A60 LED The light works great, low power use and very bright. Just strange noise through radio/aux connection makes me think maybe it needs grounding - the yellow/green wire is currently not connect to anything

Hey Folks, I hope you are all well at this time! So I've fitted a standard light fitting to with a 12v bulb to my boat. Getting a bit of a buzz through the radio.. Do I need to ground the yellow/green to the negative? The negative block is assumable grounded to the Hull. It's currently just got the blue to negative/black and brown to positive/red but I've not put the yellow/green ground wire anywhere... I just want to check it's not making some sort of dodgy ground loop affecting the Hull or something Your thoughts much appreciated - thanks

Hi Everyone, Thanks for your hellp. Twin Calorifier it is, I think I'll get this one as it fits under my bed to replace thee current one http://www.coppercylinder.co.uk/825-x-350-14-gallon-twin-coil-marine-calorifier-horizontal/ Thanks for your help. ​Not sure about that one Chewbaka hopefully someone else can help you.

Hello, I hope you can help. I have a single coil calorifier heated from the engine. I also have radiators heated by an eberspacher. They are on separate systems. Is it possible to connect the two systems so that the calorifier can be heated from both sources? As the eberspacher is mounted higher than the engine, would there be a problem with water from the radiators circuit causing the engine cooling circuit to overfow? Thanks!

Fixed it yesterday! It was the seal as suggested. we were just about to take the whole end plate off as the manual instructed but a very helpful engineer we rang instructed a much simpler way where you carefully take the forward\reverse arm off and turn the engine over (with the stopper out!) and a rage bunged it and the old seal came out. Ring someone for better instruction though I'm not confident to pass these on! He then gave a tip that the seal is the same as in an Alco MD093 filter so bought one and used the seal from that. Very fiddlley job but got their in the end! Works great now! Thanks for your help and suggestions, very helpful