wrisberg

Hi guys. Have been at this forum a couple of years searching on and of regarding my old boat KAMA ( birchwood 25 ) Now I bought a boat suited for living on, and the date is 1st of may!!! Need to rebuild both engines, insulate the roof, and build a new bed in the stern, as i took down 3 small bunks, and, a bunch of sanding and painting aswell In 1970 and again in 1979 it has been rebuild with engines and cockpit. I am the fourth owner. Marconi, Build in 64 or 65 by the dutch steel metal yacht company Helstede. Thanks for this great forum, I really enjoy browsing and reading here. Jonas, - denmark

New raw water pump, Jbsco, New impeller, PLENTY of flow when idling. Its a solid string of water at 1200rpm, from the exhaust. Everything cleaned when refitting. brand new mixing elbow Air leaks or pump . . . yeah, it could be. - but it's unlikely i think The Engine starts right away, and doesn't give either white or black smoke, when cold, or when full loaded. No smoke, at all. It settles on the rpms instantly when taking the gas of. No leaks or anything other. It runs as smootht as I could imagine a engine from that time to run. If it was to lean, it would heat up when running with higher rpm's, right ? Maybe I'll just have to live with it. It doesnt overheat, it settles at like 90-95. It does push a little coolant out when idling for a long time though, I have a hose from the cap to a container. Then I pour it back, every once in a while . . . . its like 0.05 - 0.1 liters. a little cupfull. If i doesnt pour it back, the running temperature is a bit higher, not 80, but 85 degrees. >then I can tell if its time to pour some back on. It only uses / pushes this out If I have been in idle for a long period . . . fishing or something. So I am not that concerned over it. A car has a expansiontank for this, this engine don't, so it must be normal i guess ? Jonas

Have you tried preheating twice? In the wintertime, when I was working on mine, It always startede right away, if I preheated twice, for like 15 sec on each. I bit harder if I only heated once. Id rather preheat twice, and save some on my starter. It's taking a long run when you crank yours, I think.

Thanks for your reply's I'll take them off then. Thanks. It's 4.8 of my engines. 8.8 liters! We tracked down the guy who builded it-. He is 83 years now. He came by to see it, what an awesome guy!! - He sold it 20 years ago. He was extatic to see it again. His wife said, it's only been a month since he said to her, that he was wondereing about the boat. Wilmer, is his name. He startet the process in 1968, and was done in 75. He took the engine from a used truck in 68 :-) what a talented guy - thats a fact. He tig welded alot of it, that was state of the art at that time. every little kut and bolt has a purpose and a meaning. Somethings more than one function. talented craftsman. he brought some pictures, from the time it was done.

Just got a big boat, with this motor installed. It's removed from a truck in 68. I need new filters, but they are placed in a canister, so I cant really see what make / number- or model the have, without removing them. I still have a lot of work on the engine, so would prefer to order new filters before I take of the old ones. Can anybody here recall the filters? I have tried google, but it 's not really showing what filters to use on this engine. Anyone here with that engine? Or the filters ? Kind regards, Jonas

Thanks for your reply's I have no problem charging, not at all. I'll stick to the current configuration. Only problem, that isn't really a problem is the temperature rises when idling, not overheating, but rising a lot. thanks for this great forum! Cheers from denmark Jonas

I was meaning, " the range " within the engine are designed to work - between 1800-2200, with 2200 as maximum. Would it make more sense, to prop down a bit and reach like 2800, with 2500 is the operating rpm ' s ?

It's a 2.51-1 ratio. 1800 should be the range, right ?

Sounds like I am in the right range then. #2 Flyboy Tachometer is calibrated. Changed to a 14x16, from a 10x16 propeller

Just getting more and more hours on my boat, with the new engine. The old BMC 1800 had its operating rpm at, 2900rpm. With a maximum of 3200. My newly installed / rebuild engine, seems to be waaaay from that. The marinisation is done propper, on this one, so thats okay. I have been cruising for a couple of weeks, adding a little more throttle on each trip. Now I have found my "sweetspot" I Guess. At 1800rpm, it sounds nice, and sails nice, around 7 knots. The maximum at WOT is 2300rpm - I would have thought more, but I have changed the propeller also. in Neutral it easily revs to 3500. Does this sound okay to you guys? Any of you have had this engine and remember you cruising rpm's ? Kind regards Jonas

Hi Guys. When I start my engine, everything is in order. There is plenty of " Splasshh " Waterflow / in the raw water cooling filter / box. BUT, when I was out cruising, 1500-1800rpm, last night, I could not see any splash in the filterbox. I imidiatelly stopped the engine, everything looked allright, so I started the engine again, water was flowing, but when I hit the throttle, its the same again. I can't see waterflow. I have looked on the exhaust, and there is plenty of water , in a steady pace coming out. Could it be that there is so much Vacum, in the box, so it just goes directly in the pipes, without any " splash " ? Can you see waterflow, in your's filterbox, when cruising, or only in idle ? Kind regards Joas

Now the time has come!!!!

Just installed a secondary tachometer. I am not up for taking the engine appart and installing a reader on the flywheel.

Nearly there.... Expecting water next week!!! It runs smooth and quiet. New wiring ( what a night...) new batteries, etc.

I presume it's from a engine with a signal from a source, let's say flywheel or somethings. Not the alternator. That must be the reason. Any og you guys in here know of such a device? Is it easy to mount? Is it direct bolt on, to maybe one of the belt drives? If it's mounted to the flywheel, it's a no go. Don't want to take it apart already ??? then I'll rather install a secondary tachometer, and leave it be, until winter.

it's identical.

There is a - ( minus ) and a G ( giver, i presume ) You are proplably right, it could be that its not alternator ( W ) Driven . . . Dammit! Is it possible to change the Tachometer, so its possible to recieve signals from alternator? I have heard of tachometers, thats been changed,. the other way around. I bought this one second hand, as my old one, was a mess, and this is a Thornycroft, so it would fit the engine make. . . But didn't think about ( didn't know ) there where differences in the signal.

There is no + connection on this tachometer. How do I give it +? Maybe that's why it isn't working properly. Jonas

Hi guys. Just finishing up my rebuild, new wiring etc. My old ( noname ) rpm gauge, has been diconnected, and a Thornycroft gauge has been fitted. When the engine is running, it's pretty much at a standstill at, about 500rpm. No matter how many revs i give the engine. I tried to mount my old rpm gauge, to the wires, to see if i have made a mistake, but it runs as it should. Soo, here is my question. The old one gets ( G ) / signal, from the alternator. Does any of you know if its the same with the old thornycroft rp, gauges ? Either the gauge is broken, or it needs to get a signal, from somewjere else, thats my conclusion. The wiring is okay, and is working with the old one, just not with the thornycroft . . . Anyone has an idea? Kind regards.

I have just found a decent autohelm st 4000, tiller type for sale. I have a couple of concerns. Is it just the cylinder, and control unit, and the Flux box, nothing more? Do I mount the tiller cylinder on the rudder arm, then it pushes it from side to side? My old autopilot on my previous boat, I mounted with a electronic engine on the wheels. I would imagine this installation with the tiller cylinder, would demand a lot of torque? Does it work okay, does it have this, Or do I need some more parts before the set is complete? Kind regards Jonas

I found it easier to chage the propeller, than the gearbox :-) But you are right, easier Isn't always better, right :-) I was hoping for a nice shortcut. . . Either way, I am not changing the gearbox, I have had way to much Unexpected work already, then I'll rather stick with the 6 knots . . . . . for now at least :-) Thanks for your input guys!

Thanks for your reply. The Boat is a 25tf Birchwood. weight is around 2200kg - 2500kg. The engine is a Thornycroft 108, with a borg warner 2:1 velvet drive gearbox. I have bought a 16x14 propeller, and made a new shaft for it. I was told that if i fit a 16x16, the boat would go sideways, when in reverse or tickover, at least a bit...? The old propeller was a 16x12, so now its 2" more, this should give me a couple of knots, right ? Kind regards Jonas

Hello guys. My old prop is a 16x12, but it is way too low. was going about 6 knots with 3200 rpm.. The correct would be to mount a 18, but there isnt clearance enough. So i have to stick with the 16 inch. I am in doubt if there is some proplems involved with a etc. 16x16 ? is the boat going sideways when reversing ( so i've been told ) I have looked at a 16x14, but thats still on the low side. thanks in advance.. /Jonas

Thanks guys.

Just made a new bracket for holding the alternator. . . After 27 years, its okay to replace it. No worries any more. Thanks for pointing that out! /Jonas