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How much would it cost to rebuild the engine?

I was going to make the two halves of the alternator housing the same. There was going to be bosses around the outer face to bolt the two halves together. The clearness between the rotor and the stator need to be as close as possible. CNC out of acetal seemed the logical thing.

Think paddle steamer. The paddle would be 3ft wide and 12 to 18 inch diameter. The bearing supports at both ends are the alternators. They will have a larger diameter so the wheel will still turn if it rests on the edge of a weir. So the two end alternator housings could be made from acetal. They will need to be waterproof. Inside the alternator two discs holding the magnets and a stator akin to a clutch plate. These housings can then bolt to a mint ure butty so the device can be lowered from the narrowboat and guided by water current to a weir. My initial prototype will be semi fixed. I can provide a solidworks model of the housings

That's the idea but a generator that works optimum at 400rpm waterproof won't clog waterflow can be easily deployed from your boat plus loads of other things

In the 500 watt range. Something portable

Anyone chugging to the barge honeys street (on the k&a) for new years heave?

I want to build a hydroelectric generator that runs from lock bypasses. This includes designing the generator, winding coils etc So any cnc turners out there up for a funky project?

Deep cycled the other battery and that clocked 209ah to about 10.8v so all good

If I had a more powerful charger I would be using it!

O yes will take a couple of days at 15A

Battery update, got back to the alarm on the inverter buzzing, it had switched off at 10.98v but the amp hour count was 218 with 9.5% left so this must be in the 250 ah ball park so happy bunny!

they are 250ah, as I'm at work all day I reduced the load to5amps which means the battery should still be alive when I get home tonight for the beef shin broth! the meat fell apart just nice this morning

upgrading my pwm system to a victron mppt from a Chinese multi charge inverter I was wondering if the extra cost of a 24v - 1200 watt inverter from victron justified its 400 quid price ticket any thoughts?

battery update - the bmv700 is hooked up now with an inverter running a slow cooker - 175watts 14amp battery current. interesting thing is after about an hour the battery voltage increased from 12.12v to 12.30v where its sat at now! so things are looking good and i'm cooking an overnight soup at the same time. will cycle the battery to 10.5v as recommended by the victron chap to see what the Ahr really is then real value can be plumbed into the bmv700 as a 'real' value all good so far ...

as part of my pwm to mppt upgrade I bought a victron 700 battery monitor, it has a shunt for clocking in/out current. so this is the perfect tool to do a once deep cycle on my batteries to find their capacity. I've not run it up yet but I imagine it can measure varying currents and summarise battery capacity.

From my limited knowledge of pwm v's mppt it seems there is no benifit from having a higher panel voltage using pwm as it basically connects direct to the battery but is chopped by pwm to limit charge. So me stringing my 3 panels together is just wasting current I imagine the batteries are clamping the voltage

Interesting chat with bloke from victron suppliers he said the 250 ah rating is over a 20hr period normally but check the data sheet and to cycle it down to 10.5v. This is a constant current drain so a bit tricky. So after checking the data I'll load them deep cycle. This is one 12V battery, I have two to check

battery voltage update, as of tonight one measures 13.20v, the other 13.12v just wait for the shunt to turn up now and will report back

I have 4 off these batteries, 2 are on the boat two are in my shed. I'm trying to see if I can mount the other two on the boat also to replace the 110ah batteries but the size of the 250's is a little restrictive. Last night I briefly switched on the psu and the battery held the current limit (4A) at 13.5 ish volts so maybe they have recovered after a little 'boost'! (borrowing a fluke 77 to measure them tonight) I've just ebayed a 100A current shunt so I can monitor the current. I thought of using a 500watt inverter I have running some light bulbs as a load, this should be a constant load to the batteries, as the battery voltage drops the current will increase and with the shunt I can log what happens. with say a 200watt load, how low a voltage would you take the battery?

I have a farnell 0-25v 0-5A linear psu with adjustable current limit. 4A seemed a fair current considering the size of the battery to be left on over night no I didn't, my multimeter was not with me

this is the battery http://www.cleversolar.co.uk/shop/deep-cycle-leisure-batteries/elecsol-250ah-agm-battery-1006201.html it looks like 6 x 2v cells the current flowing into the battery is 4A to achive this requires 17v. if I set the voltage to say 14v I think the current wil be next to nothing but I will check tonight. maybe they are fine and are fully charged? It says in the data sheet they can be stored for 6 months and I believe they were fully charged then. Maybe rigging up say a 100watt load and timing the discharge cycle?

I've a pair of fairly new 250Ah deep cycle batteries that have been in my shed for 6 months. connecting them up to a variable current variable voltage linear psu and setting the current limit to 4A the voltage rose to 17V. leaving it like this over night hoping the voltage would come down the next day it was still sat at 17v, both respond the same so have I killed them?

it is rated to 125v, the system voltage is 24, the minimum being 18v. So I wired my 3 24v panels in series (they have a VoC of 38v) and the display on the charger said 80-90v but it didn't make any difference to the charge current but I was very overcast when I tried this

Interesting question I don't know. It's a pwm system at the moment. I will investigate. ...

24v