umpire111

have a boat with n Isuzu 33hp ILB engine, 11 years old. The manual specifies that I should used mineralised oil, 15w/40 API CC oil. Have just had a service and the engineer has put in Pennasol Oil, 15W/40 but with a API SI/CF spec. When questioned he said that he uses this oil in all boats and to ignore the manual as it is out of date. can someone please advise, is this going to be ok and what issues are there?

do I really need to use specific bilge paint as I have a quantity of silver smooth hammerite which says can go directly onto rust. The bilge paint recommends rust treatment, primer and then the paint. My bilges are fairly dry so wondered what were the advantages of the Bilge Paint?

have to go onto tidal waters between Naburn and Selby lock- am told that I shall have to sail backwards when going into the Selby lock- can someone explain 1. why and 2. how to do it please New to me Cheers

boat is 2004 and is a Liverpool Boat

little bit concerned- had my boat for about 7 months and the bilge has always been completely dry. Its been taken out of the water recently for blacking and now is back in. Was taken out on a slipway stern first so water came on to the bow but soon drained away. After my second trip out sine that tiome noticed that there was water in the bilge at the stren and that the pump had been activated. Is this usual after being taken out of the water in that way? Can water get from the bow to the bilge at the stern and should it soon clear.

have seen the moorings at the Hall on the River Ure, can a narrowboat land there and are there any charges

over the winter water has obviously got in around 2 windows. I have now resealed an the rain cannot now get in. There is an oak veneer panelling in the inside around the windows and unfortunately it has become badly blackened by the water ingress. Will this dry out and the black go or can I re stain or repair?

It's a Whale Universal

the pressure release valve on top of my calorifier keeps releasing and letting out water. This occurs every 2 or 3 minutes. Even occurs when the engine is not running and moored. I have a new water pump (30 psi) and the PR valve is for 3 bar. The water pump kicks in when the water is released, obviously. Have changed the valve but same problem re releasing. The calorifier seems to be pressurising to above 3 bar which is 43 psi but how can this be the case if the pump is only rated as 30 psi? Going mad at the moment- all advice or ideas welcomed

am repainting my boat, not taking the windows out. Have cut back the old sealant around the windows but not sure when to put the new in. Do I do it before painting and then paint over it or seal after the final coat has gone on?

just taken this off to clean for winter but it has "collapsed" with the front sort of pushed in- is there any way of repairing them? seems as though the centre wants padding out!

so that be costly if we have cold below 4C weather

have a frost stat on my Eberspacher- left the boat but have been told by nearby boat residents that it is on for prolonged periods and when it has not been too cold. Upon checking see that it comes on at 5C or below and cannot be altered- surely that is set too high and it should only come on at say 2C or below. The cost of the diesel is also a factor. Turned off all the 12v circuits but still plugged into mains and it still comes on. Question 1. is 5C too high for a winter setting 2. how do I isolate the heater 3. have an oil filled 700w radiator with frost guard that I intend to put in the boat over winter, will that suffice but I shall drain water 4. do I have to empty the waste tank for winter?

have read about an additive, Marine 16, are they really worth it? have an Isuzu 35 and the more I read re fuel problems he more concerned I get. Can Marine 16 do any damage?

can someone tell me the difference in efficiency between the fuel guard at £175 and this one at" 25 on ebay? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DIESEL-FUEL-WATER-TRAP-SEPARATOR-ASSY-CAV-296-FUEL-FILTER-ASSY-SUIT-GARAGE-/271425494164?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_BoatEquipment_Accessories_SM&hash=item3f32385c94

can some one tell me the difference in efficiency between this one at £30 and the fuel guard at £175? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DIESEL-FUEL-WATER-TRAP-SEPARATOR-ASSY-CAV-296-FUEL-FILTER-ASSY-SUIT-GARAGE-/271031607537?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_BoatEquipment_Accessories_SM&hash=item3f1abe20f1

in a chandlery today and they are showing a combined water/diesel filter (transparent) with a life long re useable filter- has anyone bought such a thing, this one was priced at £170 which seems a bit ott?are they worth it as they guarantee to extract all water and diesel buggy things

new to boating, want to buy some neutral coloured rope for the centre line for the boat, the one that fastens onto the roof. Looked on ebay and there are various types, I assume I need a 14mm diameter and a hemp type rope and not the polyester. Would this be the right one to use? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Rope-Synthetic-Hemp-Polyhemp-Hempex-For-Decking-Garden-Boating-6mm-36mm-/281419759274?pt=UK_Sporting_Goods_Sailing&var=&hash=item4185ecbeaa

can I drain all of the water system in my boat, including the calorifier and still sail it? I was intending to do all the usual including removing the batteries for the winter, but could I leave the batteries in situ and then use the boat for a couple of hours say once a month during winter months. Will need to drain the domestic water and this would also mean draining the calorifier- the engine heats the water of course, or would the calorifier be damaged if dry?

not sure what make and not at boat for a couple of weeks- will come back to you-thanks

thanks for the reply- looked at this but there is a tab on the lever which fits into the base/holder. The lever is pulled out slightly to disengage gears. So if I repositioned the lever the tab would not fit into the hole in the housing- hope you understand?

have bought a second hand Liverpool 55ft boat, 10 years old. The throttle lever in neutral is at an angle of about 30 degrees from vertical pointing away from me as I stand in the drive position. The other boats I have had have always had a lever which is vertical in the neutral position. I am finding that I am having to lean over to accelerate- looked at the possibility of re positioning it but the linkages look set. Can it be moved? is this position usual?

had my first boat for about a month, have noticed that with carpet etc on the floor of the engine bay the sound from the engine is greatly reduced. Am considering sticking some form of proofing underneath the hatches that cover the engine- any suggestions as to what type to use and how to secure it?

Is it easy to move across, assume the flooring just unscrews?

what is PITA?