walli

Hello Mrshifter, I have a " Thornycroft 90 spare parts list " from British Leyland PM me and I will send it over.

Hello Tony, thank you for the information. I took a look at the engine and transmission and now I understand what you are saying. I will have to compare it with the motor in the boat, but as I already see the attachment for the shaft seems to be lower. I will also have to see if I can lift the engine up about four or five centimeters. Since it's a steel boat there should be no problem with the mounting, if it fits. I was planning to do an easy one to one exchange of engines and transmissions as soon as I know the ratio of the newage. But now things may get a bit more complicated. That is if I have to get the vevet drive overhauled and exchange the newage with it. The information about the mounts was also very helpful. That might be where the ratteling, knocking noise comes from. When I stand on the engine while running the noise seems to get less. Thankyou, Douglas

I got in contact with PRM newage. I will let you know when I get an answer. Thankyou

Thanks Tony. The mounts are the same and much better as by the old engine, so everything should fit. Once more the question: can I use this transmission on a 7 ton sailboat. I do not know much about ratios, propeller sizes etc. As I mentioned above, the velvet drive has a ratio of 2.10:1. For me it would be much easier if I could use the Newage instead of rebuilding the velvet drive.

Thanks for the replies. If possible I would like to use the newage gearbox. The velvet drive makes alot of noise and probably should be rebuild before using it.

Hello again to the great forum, that helped me many times. I have a 7 ton sailboat with a BMC captain 1.5 engine and a Velvet Drive AS3-70C transmission from Borg Warner. Ratio 2.10:1. The BMC is older, one cylinder has low compression. The motor leaks oil and does not sound reliable. I bought a used Captain with good compression and which seems to be ok and dry. This engine has a Newage Conventry mt 103 trans and I would like to put this into the boat. I searched the Internet and your forum, but could nowhere find a manual or information about the newage coventry mt 103 gearbox. My question: What is the ratio of a mt 103 compared to the velvet drive. Can I use this transmission for the boat or do I have to refit the velvet? All information about the transmission would be helpful at the moment. Best regards, Douglas

Thanks again

Hello Toni, first of all thank you for the information. I now understand, Thorneycroft, CT marine, JR Meaks, Tempest and Newage etc. are the ones that marinised the engine. Exhaust manifold and heat exchanger are simular. Rear mounts seem to look better than mine. To answer your questions, beside a picture here also a few numbers: Numbers I found stamped on my engine: 1500 D / 15BB/V/D 2123 / B14E0 / 12H1999 Diesel Injection Pump: DPA 3246E857 MOD / SER 47260 PM / Hydraulic Heat Exchanger: Bowman FH100 , 3182-2 , Date 11 82 , FH11 I have often obtained general maintenance parts from Calcutt Boats or ASSP, but things like exhaust manifold coolers, timing chain covers are hard to find. Injection pumps are also quite expensive. I will buy the engine if the compression is good. Should it run well, I will replace mine, if not a good amount of spare parts will keep mine running a bit longer. Thanks for your help, Doug

Hello Forum, I could really use your help again. Living in Hamburg its hard to get BMC engines, parts etc. Someone fairly nearby is offering a BMC Tempest / Captain in ebay (https://www.ebay-kleinanzeigen.de/anzeigen/s-detailansicht.html?adId=1621890588) I have a BMC 1,5 litre Captain engine in my Sail boot, which is again and again giving me troubles. (see earlier Posts). I have heard of the Captain 1,5 and of the Tempest 1,5 or 2,5 but never heard of a Tempest/Captain. (see picture) Can anyone tell me if the Tempest / Captain is the same engine as my 1,5 litre Captain. How many horsepower does the Tempest / Captain have? Will the parts all fit on my Captain 1.5? It would really help me to make a purchase decision if I knew more about the engine. Regards Doug

Ich hatte noch Bilder geposted, die wohl verschwunden sind. Zb. wie das ganze zerlegt aussieht. Da es in Germany wenig Fachleute für BMCs gibt, muss mensch wohl selber ran. Ich stand genauso davor und es hat bisher geklappt, auch mal mit Komplikationen. Nehme die spindel raus und halt alles mit Bilder fest. Ersetze die o Ringe und alles müsste dicht sein. Falls du beim Einbau probleme bekommst , wirst du in diesem Forum immer Rat bekommen. Ich denke aber es wird auch so klappen.

Hallo, man kann die welle rausnehmen. Neue Dichtung usw. Genau darauf achten wie sie stand. Ich weiß nicht ob eine Arritierung drauf ist aber man bekommt sie wieder gut rein. Es ist lange her, aber ich meine man muss beim Einbau einen Kolben, der aus der Dieselpumpe kommt, leicht eindrücken. Bilder sind in einer meiner posts zu sehen Gruß Douglas

Hello, I have been looking into this forum recently, sinse I also have black slim and soot on the water after starting the engine, which takes a long time of cranking. I took out the glowplugs and cleaned out the carbon. I would recommend doing this at least every 3-4 years. I am now waiting for a new pair of blugs coming from the uk. I am confident the engine will start better. I believe the black stuff throwen out at start has to do with the fuel system and adjustments and the not burnt fuel in the chambor? Maybe someone knows more? About Easy Start. You could also take a tourch and hold it into the air intake. Then just crank the engine over as long as the battery allows. For a basic injector check (to see if they spray) take off the injector holders with injector and crank. By doing this with all 4 you should see if the spray pattern is simular, which does not mean that it is right. Another way to see if the pattern is simular could be to crank the engine over when the glowplugs are out and the carbon is cleaned out. You see how much spray comes out of the glowplug holes. Give a bit of troddel and see if it gets more. No spray, bad injectors. Water and dampness are injector killers by standing engines. I overhauld my bmc 1.5 in a damp basement for 5 years. I thought it would go quicker and put in the new injectors in the first year. They had not seen any diesel, so they were not lubricated. After 5 years they were shot by dampness. I understand yours might have gotten some waterfuel? Check out the injectors. 200 psi is not great, but if you get them running it may last until you find a good engine, maybe in a different boatyard. Another thing, as Bizzard often says. Check the valve clearing. All the best Douglas

Put a little bit of tape around the outer part of the drill bit. It makes the turning easyer an the drill will not go threw the hole into the chambur. Just did this today and it makes the job a bit easier on the figers. Was happy to get the glowplugs out after 5 years without snapping them. The first time I took them out years ago, I blew it and had to take the head off. They had been in there for 15 years. Douglas

Thanks, yes the packing at the prop end is still fitted. Grease does come out at the stern end. Grease also comes out of the front bearing. (saw that when I had the rubber tube off). I put in 3 layers of separate packing. Doug

You got me thinking, why should I hammer the packing down. I searched the basement and found some 5 mm packing. 6 mm was actually too big. Put in the 5 mm packing while the boat was in the water. Not a drop of water came out while doing so. Is that OK? Now the gland still gets warm to hot. After running for about 15 minutes it reaches a temperature which seems to stay the same. I am not sure if that is too hot. I can still touch the gland and keep my fingers on it without burning myself. Could it be that this will run itself in after a while? I would like to get a bit sailing in this fall. I plan to check the alignment in the spring or when the weather gets warmer. Am I correct with this: In order to check the alignment I must take off the flexible propeller shaft coupling (buhk) and replace it with a solid coupling to measure the gab. In this case I would have to buy myself a solid coupling. Is there a way to do it without removing the flexible coupling? I could borrow a dial gauge indicator if necessary. Thanks Doug

Thanks, the packing is 6 x 6 mm and fits in. Since it is a hard place to work at I hammered the packing a bit flatter and greased it to make things easier. The shaft was perfectly smooth. It might have to do with the alignment. That means another few days in the motor room for me. Once more to my question: should water drip out of the stern Gland?

I tried my best to get the alignment spot on. I am not sure if I managed to get it exactly spot on since that has to do with 0,01 mm, but it is pretty close. Even if not the stern gland with the packing is connected with a rubber, which gives a bit of flexibility. How would I get the alignment spot on with a flexible coupling.

I changed the packing last week. The old packing came out easy and did not seem very tight. Before I put in the new packing I hammered it flat like Matty said. This was a great help. I greased everything well and did not tighten the pusher much, except for hand tight. After about 15 minutes of running in forward gear at a moderate speed the dam thing started getting hot again. While running the motor in gear I kept on turning the greaser as far as I could, but still it did not cool down. The only thing I can think of now is to untighten the pusher a bit more. I noticed that no water at all comes in. It seems the grease is sealing the bearings very well. Must the packing always be in contact with grease and with water to keep cool? After all the refit and motor problems I do find this very annoying and have no solution. Thanks Douglas

I will look for a good day when the tide is right, so I have enough daylight time and no water under me. I hope it does not take 3 hours. Let you know what happens. Douglas

Even when opening the pusher so that it is completely loose nothing happens – not even water comes in. I guess the best thing is to do it all over again and pack it loose first. I also thought the packing on the prop side was unusual, but since there was a ring of packing under the cap I did the same. The question is, should some water come in through the prop bearing or not. If so I will take the one ring of packing out again. On the other side grease came out of the prop bearing so water should go in. Yes I can turn the shaft by hand. It does not spin on by itself but it turns without using too much strength. Thanks for your help, Douglas

Hello, the stern gland (where the packing is) on my boat is getting very hot while in gear. I have a boat with a conventional stern tube. On the propeller side there is a brass bearing with a lubrication groove on the inside. The motor side has a pusher with 3 layers of packing and a greaser. I had everything apart, since I did a complete refit of the boat. I put in a new propeller shaft, a new brass bearing on the propeller side and new packing. The greaser works (while on land grease came out of the propeller side) and has been refilled so often, so that the stern tube should be full by now. I admit that I made a mistake and tightened the pusher to much before putting the boat in the water. After I noticed that it was getting much too hot, I untightened the pusher hoping this would reduce the friction. Nothing happened and no water is dripping out and the thing is still getting hot. Should it untighten itself when the pusher is opened or will the packing stay as is? I am thinking of taking the whole new packing out at low tide and putting in 3 new layers, without over tightening the unit. On the propeller side there is a cap with two screws holding the brass bearing in the stern tube. I put one ring of packing material between the cap and the brass bearing. Is this correct or should water be able to run in on the propeller side? I am not sure if the shaft is cooled by the little water coming in on the propeller side or only by the grease? I did my best to align the engine with the shaft and have a flexible coupling. Could the heat come from a minimal misalignment? I would like to get this taken care of before the shaft gets ruined and finally get the boat moving again. Can someone help me?

Problem solved!! I took off the governor top again, this time together with the metering valve. Then I cleaned everything and loosened the locknut of the idle adjusting set screw. After putting everything back together again I started the engine. By screwing the adjusting screw (idle damper) in almost all the way the engine took up on speed. It did not sound very good at high speed but at least I finally got some power. I stopped and started a few times, did some further adjusting and was about to call it a day, when all of a sudden the engine revved up and over speeded. I thought it was going to blow. I managed to get to the stop level in time. I readjusted the idle damper to about the way it was before and started again. Perfect, finally this BMC was running smoothly. It seems something was clogged up in the injection pump. By getting the motor to run at a higher speed than idle for a while the clog was probably cleaned out. I must say I am quite happy getting this done before the winter. Once again I would like to thank all of you for the help you gave me. I also won the bid for the timing chain cover, so that problem should also be solved soon. Let’s see what comes next. Douglas

The you tube video posted 06 October 2014 shows the smoke at the end of the video. New smoke report and results of the idle damper adjustment after the weekend. No I did not find a gage but it seems the engine is starting and running well in the mean time. Just can not rev it up.

I found the upload link