Rewilding
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Everything posted by Rewilding
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I wasn't able to measure that short circuit current - but given that I have tried it with two panels with the same problem, it must be in the wiring from the connectors to the controller, right? One of those connectors was very (despite not being in the sun) - could this be the source of the resistance? I've now actually just dismantled that connection and put it back together - all looked good, no signs of corrosion of poor connection. Having put this back together it is now....working. Problem solved but I feel like i've not satisfactorily solved the mystery...?
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I don't know how to measure the short circuit current, presumably disconnect panel and measure across them as if voltage, but with multimeter set to 10a?
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Full bright sun all day yesterday and today, clean panel. Open circuit is 31V, drops to 0.2v below battery voltage as soon as it's connected. I have been disconnecting panel first from controller whilst trying to fix the issue, but the connections hadn't been touched before this problem. Thanks for the thoughts, it is quite puzzling. My only thought for it being between controller and batteries was because both panel and controller appear fine. I even tested the diodes in the panel and all working fine, and as I said, 31v open circuit. Hmmm...
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Hi all - hoping someone might be able to help troubleshoot a solar charging problem. The problem is: it isn't working. The set up has worked perfectly since I installed it 5 years ago, and nothing in this system or any of the electrics on the boat has been changed recently. Yesterday, I noticed the epever xtra MPPT controller was showing the panel had light, but it was not charging. Vpanel = ~12.4v and Vbatt =12.6v at that time. This was around midday, it was working in the morning. I have a second identical and fully working MPPT controller, so first thing I did was rewire into this one - same problem, so not the controller. I was also able to switch out the panel with another similar one - same problem, so not the panel (I also tried the second panel on both controllers). So presumably the problem lies between controller and batteries? The batteries are healthy, they charge fine with the engine running and they hold their charge. One thing I noticed is when I ran the engine and Vbatt went up to around 13.4V, the Vpanel shown on controller was ~13.1v. I also tested the wires from the panel when disconnected from the controller, and it was giving 31V. So, something in my electrics is dragging it down? I took out a single leisure battery and connected the controller direct to this, so nothing else on the system. Same problem - still showing not charging, and volts always about 0.2v below Vbatt. This has my completely stumped, so any other thoughts very welcome! Thanks, Andrew
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Hi all, I'm looking for someone who can move a narrowboat (paid, of course) from Brighouse Basin to Wakefield Wharf on either Saturday or Sunday this weekend (14th/15th July). The boat is to be craned out on Monday but the previous skipper has had to pull out - so any help or leads very much appreciated! Thanks, Andrew
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Coolant in domestic (hot) water supply?
Rewilding replied to Rewilding's topic in Boat Building & Maintenance
Ok, thanks. So it seems this could be a reasonable diagnosis then. I'll investigate further, thanks for your help! -
Coolant in domestic (hot) water supply?
Rewilding replied to Rewilding's topic in Boat Building & Maintenance
I will try as you say with the radiator cap off. I can make sense of how the pressure in the domestic system would push water into the engine loop (if there is a hole), what I can't make sense of is how the coolant would get back into the cauliflower - i.e. if the pressure is constantly pushing water into the engine loop, how would anything flow the other way? -
Morning, a riddle for you all. Symptoms; - Pump running intermittently (every ~30seconds), but no evidence of a leak so far (checked all joints). (I also first replaced the pump and the issue has remained, so I've ruled pump failure out). - Engine coolant is mysteriously overfull (has not been touched since I flushed and refilled before winter, and has been at a good level until now). - Taste of antifreeze when showering. These issues all arose in the same week - is there any connection? My current theory is a failure in the coil connected to the engine in the calorifier. This is causing the pump to run, pushing water into the engine cooling loop, and simultaneously leaking engine coolant into domestic supply. Given the cost and contortion required to fit a new calorifier, are there any more tests I can try to confirm? Or has anyone got another solution? Many thanks, Andrew
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I am questioning durability, but with the right lacquer wear could be sufficiently limited? Do you have any recommendations? Do you mean the stuff that is sold as being for concrete floors/garage paint?
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Thanks all for the replies. I'm sold on the idea... Though, perhaps unconventionally, I'm thinking of using chalk paint and then lacquering it. We'll see how that goes.
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Boaters all, I want to replace the tired, 90s laminate floor in the galley that still makes me tiptoe with bare-feet as if i'm in a youth hostel. I know it's marine ply beneath, though thickness I'm unsure of. Obviously I could simply replace with new vinyl or laminate and problem solved. But now i'm thinking about painting the floor instead. Since there's no insulation there to speak of anyway, I don't think it will be any colder than it is now, which doesn't bother me anyway. But is it okay to simply paint the marine ply? (with appropriate prep and paint of course). Has anyone else got painted marine ply flooring? Thanks, Andrew
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I realise I am 5 years behind on this thread, but I was interested in any photos or information relating to ex-ECC hire fleet. I liveaboard Golden Wren, which I believe to be a SoTBB hull built 1991, with an ECC instrument panel. Kienik mentioned having some photos from around this time and others have mentioned brochures - would it be possible to see any of these??
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Thank you for all the replys on this. I drained the radiators and took the piping apart where the hot water was stopping as if blocked. No obvious blockages however, but once all back together and re-filled it worked fine again! Until the gas ran out. Oh well. Thank you all!
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I am still confused as to whether what I have is a header tank or expansion tank. It's open top and only holds about 3 cups of tea... How am I supposed to fill the system from that? And is the second an automatic system? So it will automatically pull more water in if it's low? I am returning to the boat now but have no internet, so thank you so much for all your help. I may be back later/tomorrow if things still aren't working out.
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Sorry, the 3 or four jets I reffered to were the pilot light, there is of course a large bank running down behind this that fire up fine. I already tried bleeding, but only dribbles of water come out so assumed there was no air in there. I will do that again and check the other valves too. If I drain a fair amount of water from the system - how do I refill it? and How do I know how much to fill it, there is no presure gaguge like a domestic system?
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Two radiators with twin pipe circuit. Hot water enters top right and the return is bottom left. The pipe work is heating about two thirds of the way to the first radiator, say about 3 or so meters from the boiler. So no, nothing is getting to any of the radiators to warm them evn slightly. (They have always been quite bad though, obviously not this bad, but the bottom never heated much on either). aread2, there is no pump in the system as it works by natural convection. Or at least, did.
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Not on board right now so can't check immediately, but I know the pilot burns with 3, possibly 4 jets with a decent size blue flame. When the thermostat cuts the burner, the pilot light still remains, and the system fires up again if I use some of the hot water/turn thermostat up. This all seems to work as I would expect it to, and indeed as I have always known it to. The header/expansion tank (?) is above the calorifier, right up at the cabin top. Or do you mean where does the pipe connect to the tank? In which case yes, it's at the bottom.
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Nothing wrong with the flame at all, no - and it heats the domestic hot water up as well as ever still. It's twin coil, and the heating pipes are all larger than the domestic pipes - though I am not on board now to measure. Engine does give me hot water, though I have never found it to do anything noticeable with the radiator temperature. No knowledge of an additional header tank - just the tank above the boiler. This tank does have water in it when it all bubbles up and fills with water... there is a valve to fill up this tank with fresh water. I don't have a copy of the instructions but have previously read through it. Tony, sorry I meant the top of the coil rather than the domestic take off. If your comment about the inlet ballcock is still relevant - what and where is that?
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I've seen some of the posts by David about Ellis maintenance, as well as the mention that they had no new for a pump. Mine doesn't, and has been working fine without. Not sure of pipe size, but again, these haven't changed so why should it suddenly stop circulating? Should the expansion bubble up? Because that has been happening...should it be full or empty? How can it go from running hot day after day to refusing to circulate?
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Had to find a pub to warm my fingers... I have an Ellis Heatmaster on my nb and has worked fine since I fired up for winter, until now. I had the heating on for a an hour or so the other evening and noticed it had started to chill off despite the boiler still burning. So for an hour the radiators had been working as normal, but then suddenly just stopped. As if blocked, which I suppose may be the problem. I wanted to drain the system, but have two questions. Firstly, is this the best thing to do? is it sludge or something in the system that is most likely? and secondly, how do I refill it? there is a small open topped box above the boiler with three pipes. The first is connected to the fresh water and on the left of the box, and has a valve on it which when opened pumps water into this little box. The second, at the bottom of the box, is connected to the top of the boiler and top of calorifier, and its behaviour suggests the whole box is like an expansion box (?). The third acts as an overflow, and the water drains into the engine bilge. I just would like to understand this system a bit more, and most importantly fix the problem that means I can heat water but not the radiators... Any help much appreciated, thanks! Andrew
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If I ever get near it I will check for an HIN. Since I'm here - another boat listed on apolloduck says it's a colecraft, boat listing has it marked as 'Fenny'. Confused seller or is there a link here? (Reg. 64207)
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Didn't stop to consider reg numbers might work like that - though it seems a bit of a muddled system. I would agree it does look to be early 2000s though in this case. Thanks
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Afternoon, "Pepper Built by Not Known - Length 13.72 metres ( 45 feet ) - Beam 1.98 metres ( 6 feet 6 inches ) - Draft 0.61 ( 2 feet ). Metal hull, power of 999 BHP. Registered with Canal & River Trust number 505635 as a Powered. Last registration recorded on Wednesday 22nd May 2013" Two questions - if a hull survey produces a good report, does not knowing the builder matter? (Insurance, resale?) Second, is it possible to ID a builder from pictures such as these? http://narrowboats.apolloduck.co.uk/feature.phtml?id=381158 Thanks all
