Rickent
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Posts posted by Rickent
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2 hours ago, Dr Bob said:
All this talk of voltage is rubbish unless you specify that nothing is drawing power at the time of measurement. Only Rob above mentions that.
I agree the capacity sounds down but if the 12.7V is a fully rested voltage and the 12.4 V is the voltage with a fridge compressor on drawing 5A then that 12.4V could be 12.6V so everything else fine. I doubt however it is ...but it shows that there is a lack of understanding. How many of the other respondents have got their inverters on or solar panels connected?
When we quote voltages, please confirm if these are rested voltages otherwise the readers are just guessing.
spot on, my 12.7v at 10pm last night dropped to 12.5v whilst fridge was running but went back to 12.7v when compressor stopped.
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13.6, solar just started to kick in.
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I will let you know at 8am in the morning.
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will the authority pay for recovery and repair of sunken boats ?
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5 hours ago, WotEver said:
Yep. And the big advantage of Zinser (and why I suggested it) is that you don’t have to thoroughly sand the varnish first. Just ensure it’s clean.
zinser sticks to any surface without the need for a key, will even paint glass.
6 hours ago, blackrose said:Yes keying and then vacuuming & wiping clean to remove the dust is the "key" here. Also I wouldn't use an ordinary water-based emulsion. There's got to be a better finish than that for the inside of a boat.
zinser first, followed by a good quality oil based gloss is the way to go.
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why try to re invent the wheel, if taking air from the outside to feed a stove was beneficial then all boats would be doing it, a lot of work for nothing.
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32 minutes ago, blackrose said:
Is a room sealed stove really any crazier than a room sealed instant gas water heater for example? I really don't know.
But if the stove draws the air from outside I really don't think it will prevent the drying of clothes. It's the heated air that draws the damp out of the clothes and I don't think that's dependent on the air source.
I really don't know, clothes will still dry in front of a stove with air drawn from the outside.
My point is, the damp air is drawn through the stove and goes out the flue.
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2 hours ago, Dr Bob said:
Ventilation is key in the winter. Have you lived on a boat in the winter? How did you dry you clothes after washing? How do you cook without creating steam? The stove creates the circulation with a significant draw from the botttom caused by the air being sucked in. Cut that off and ventilation/ circulation is compromised. I cant recollect seeing a boat with the stove inlet piped to the outside.
we dry all our wet clothes around the stove in winter, the stove draws the damp out.
Drawing air from outside is crazy.
Never had a problem with condensation.
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drawing the air from inside the boat removes moisture and keeps the boat dry.
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43 minutes ago, Alan de Enfield said:
Yup, Whilton do that and use it to convince newbies that they don't need to fork out £1000 for a survey "we have already done it for you".
There have been a number of boats that have had a Whilton Survey and then sunk as the buyer leaves the marina & takes 'them home'.
A guy who I worked with bought one from whilton six months ago and by the time he got it to Syston it was sinking.
No survey.
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is the new boat a crowd funded job?
2 hours ago, ditchcrawler said:Does it say recent survey and freshly blacked?
yes, survey August 2020, new blacking and anodes.
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8 hours ago, matty40s said:
Birstall is NOT a safe mooring if leaving your boat. Not only is it the only place I have had youths jumping on the roof and violently rocking it, scaring my daughter and friends, but the moorings are below the lock, and can disappear under 2 feet of water.....from a day before 4 feet step up off the boat!!
If you have to leave your boat on the river, leave it above a lock, on long loose lines, and ask someone moored locally to check it if it rains a lot.
The Hope and Anchor moorings are fairly safe, the water only goes up to a foot above the towpath in serious flood times, as there are wiers either side.
Wasn't until after I posted I realised he was leaving his boat, would definitely go to syston.
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14 minutes ago, droshky said:
We might be up there on the Soar in 10 days or so. We’d plan to moor somewhere North of Leicester, perhaps Birstall area if that was ok. Then go home, come back as usual 2 weeks later. Any regular issues with security, either from hooligans or river level drama?
Birstall, Syston are good safe moorings, river levels can shoot up over a short space of time when rain is heavy, need to keep your eye on the weather.
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1 minute ago, JonT said:
Ah yes it is 84 the insurer dont need a survey its a bit more than some but i will see about it, because i would prefer to survey it later when it is fitted out, so going to do a bit more research first. The best way i see it is to find a better insurance company and do the hull survey to cover the engine and hull.
Strongly recommend a survey before chucking money in to a fit out, if it needs welding then you'll end up ripping it out again.
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Give this a watch and you will see how wise Alan's words are.
Does look a tidy boat.
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You didn't buy it from a couple of young YouTube vloggers. ?
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15 hours ago, Detling said:
3 wired in parallel have a potential current max of 15 amps, 2 wired in series have a potential current max of 5 amps. It is a lot easier to get the tracer tracking over 1.5 amps to allow it to set a max power point. When using Tracers best to wire in parallel or as in my case of 6 panels 3 parallel strings of 2 People say that as wired in series the voltage gets higher quicker in the morning it is better, it does but only for a few minutes before the panel is at max voltage anyway, and at a time when the panels are not producing much in the way of power, current in the milliamp range, as this delays the controller finding the maximum power point it is not a good idea. Tracers are among the worst at this, but they are have a good overload margin and are reliable, all at a reasonable price. If the wires to the batteries are to thin the controllers get tricked into thinking the batteries are full early. They measure the voltage at their terminals so if you have 13.8 v at the battery and 0.5v voltdrop on the cable the controller sees 14.3v and thinks the battery is fully charged. Use the fattest cable practical to get that volt drop down preferably to 1%, at half the controllers max current.
Yep, just looked at controller and was pv was 14v, unplugged positive and plugged it back in and went straight up to 38v.
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8 minutes ago, matty40s said:
Norty...
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Keelblack, that's the stuff.?
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Nice to see you Neil on the Soar near Cossington.
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7 minutes ago, WotEver said:
Yep
Will give that a go then, always wondered why, even in full morning sun it took ages to move off 14v.
The old 20a tracer didn't do that when I just had three panels wired in parallel.
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8 hours ago, Detling said:
Tracers can and do get stuck. They track by loading the panels reducing the voltage going into the unit and checking the current at that load. They start testing at full voltage no amps and eventually load the panels until they are just over the battery voltage. They should then return to the highest load current value, but often a Tracer controller forgets to return to the highest current point. Another feature of the Tracer series is that currents under 1.5 amps don't seem to count when trying to determine the maximum power point. The OP has 4x20 volt panels but doesn't say what wattage, so likely to be at least 200 watts total (could be over 600) which should be enough to easily exceed 1.5 amps at midday. My Tracer sometimes sticks at a panel voltage of 14.5 in the morning as the sun rises, I normally check when I get up, and as I have a switch in the panel feed I can disconnect the panels for a few seconds and things then work fine. It is a known issue but Tracer haven't changed their tracking software for years despite knowing the issue.
Additionally if the cables from the batteries to the controller are too thin then the battery voltage plus the volt drop from the cable reaching he Tracer causes it Togo into float before the battery voltage is high enough.
I often find my panels on 14v for a couple of hours in the morning as well.
Would removing the positive panel feed and reconnecting wake them up as Matty suggests.
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6 minutes ago, PD1964 said:
The whole thing seams odd especially the last two Vlogs, If you know boats it makes no sense. It’s as if they have somehow known about the holes and problems.
Maybe they were mentioned when they bought the boat and got it so cheap and don’t want you to know, as they just say “it had a good survey” and never mention anything to back this statement up, but to miss all those issues the original Surveyor wants shot. If it was me I’d be mentioning names and asking serious questions of his comp to professionalism.
To be honest I’m just waiting for the Crowd Funding appeal to start?
I also couldn't get my head around how thin the back end was but the previous survey allegedly didn't flag it up.
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4 minutes ago, Thomas C King said:
What's your (or anyone's) opinion on marinas that have surveys done, and make them available?
When we were looking for our first boat we asked to see the out-of-water survey of each boat that interested us performed by the marina. Some of these surveys showed good hull condition, and others not, which greatly narrowed down our selection. After we put a deposit down, we asked the same surveyor to do the interior of the boat. Both the out-of-water and interior survey led to some fixups agreed by the marina. Was this careless, somewhat careless, or not careless? I'm wondering if it makes a difference if it's a marina versus a private seller.
always commission your own survey.
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Advice On Solar Panel Technology Please
in Boat Equipment
Posted
This, Bimble are good price wise soloing as you know what you need beforehand.