cuthound
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Posts posted by cuthound
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19 hours ago, ruthieruthruth said:
Yes, thanks for all the advice here! I think the main issue is that I didn't realise the tank was full until it was too late - need to find some way of fitting some sort of indicator so this doesn't happen again. There's no obvious place I can see that I could do that but perhaps I'll speak to the Scarisbrick marina and see if they can advise me. Leaking poo out of the hose is not the best indicator...
Meanwhile I have the porta poti set up for now and a pump out planned for tomorrow at the MMBC.
Would love to also have the DIY pump out into a suitable container option but I am not sure I would know how to put one together - does anyone have any more detailed advice that covers the pump and hose operation as well as the container? I've had a google but all I can see is the Leesan huge kits that aren't really suitable as I have no where to store them.
My boat came fitted with a "tank full" light. Having retired from an industry where everything critical had a back up, I was worried about the lamp failing, si I fitted one of these.
https://www.mcsboatproducts.co.uk/our-products/wastewater
They are easy to fit, you provide them with the depth of the tank, then use a holesaw to cut a hole in the top of the tank and secure the sensor through the tank using a rubber grommet. Then cut a hole for the gauge itself (mine is in the toilet compartment but you could position it near the helm), then take a 12 volt supply to the gauge (I took mine from the toilet power supply so that it is on when the toilet is switched on )and add wiring between the gauge and sensor and the jobs a good un.
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Have you asked the major shareboat companies?
When I had shareboats, one of them had eleven 1/12th shares and two 1/24th shares. Could this arrangement suit your needs?
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11 hours ago, David Mack said:
But for that to work, it requires the client body firstly identify a defect with the work done up to 5-7 years later, then go back to the contractor or their insurer within the guarantee period, then argue about whether the defect is actually a result of inadequate work by the contractor or something else etc. etc.
In a clearcut case the contractor may make good the defect or the insurer pay out (so the client can engage another contractor). In less clear cases all sides will argue, and incur lots of staff time and lawyers bills, and the client won't always win. And that assumes that 5-7 years later the client body has the relevant original records available, or any staff who remember the original job, or even the basic resources (or inclination) to chase the matter up.
In 90"% of the claims, which to be fair were few and far between, the contractor simply came out and rectified the defect. Unless they did this they were unlikely to remain on the approved contractor list. Most claims against the insurance were where the contractor was no longer in business, and in almost all cases the insurance company simply paid out.
Where it was obvious that engaging another contractor would be cheaper than litigation that it what would happen. In my time there no case ever reached the litigation stage.
This was in the data centre world, where the clients are VERY demanding and covered everything from the building , access roads and surrounding landscaping through to the technical equipment contained within the building.
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On 31/12/2023 at 12:35, Tonka said:
Why not go to the Dog & Doublet. Used to do good meals there but I have not eaten there since the pandemic
We go there regularly because it is dog friendly.
The food is home cooked, good quality and fairly basic bar food. However the owner/chef is Chinese and on Mondays, Tuesdays, Fridays and Saturdays he cooks some excellent Chinese food.
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On 30/12/2023 at 09:37, Stroudwater1 said:
It seems to be a job that can use or save much time/ money in labour costs so tends to get minimised. After a few months the contractors shell company changes so little can be done to make the contractor effect repairs.
The 5G contractors locally have changed 3 times in a year, same blokes doing the work. Their compactor remains in unused condition appt from being moved on and off the lorry.
Council fully occupied in trying to get the sunken trenches safe.
It’s a race to the bottom. An answer could be to insist on a huge deposit these companies slowly receive back should the work hold up satisfactorily over time.
When I was working I used to specify that contractors must carry insurance backed guarantees for their work, including any which they sub-contracted out. The typical duration was 5-7 years.
Some contractors bitched about it, but if they wanted the work they had to comply.
It costs a fraction more but ensures that the work lasts for the duration of the guarantee, and is probably cheaper in the long run as all re-work is covered by the contractor or his insurance. (Contractors usually respond quickly and favourably because they don't want their insurance premiums increasing because of a large number of claims).
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On 30/12/2023 at 10:28, rusty69 said:
I did. They are a right Palin in the arse
Palin, isn't he that bloke of the telly?
Are you taking the Michael?
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1 hour ago, dmr said:
You can do the L&L into Liverpool (from Wigan) but can't do Wigan to Leeds. Liverpool is worth visiting.
The Rochdale easily takes full length boats (I am on it now), but both the Rochdale and Huddersfield narrow are "there and back" routes as the Calder and Hebble is 57 foot.
Essentially its the Eastern half of Yorkshire that is out of bounds, pretty odd really as Yorkshire generally does things well but really messed up with its locks 😀
That will be because shorter locks were cheaper than the longer ones ... 😂😂
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On 26/12/2023 at 18:18, nicknorman said:
Yes I was wondering if the starter motor could be tired. Look quite difficult to get to in our installation though!
Had a similar issue on my first shareboat. The battery was changed to no avail.
Then the starter motor was taken to an rotating electrical repairer, tested and found to be defective.
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4 hours ago, ditchcrawler said:
I like the lamp post
I thought it was a buoy...
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On 21/12/2023 at 16:40, ditchcrawler said:
But it could cost some people over £700 a year, if they walk along the towpath to somewhere every day and then back again. Remember how CRT get there numbers.
It could cost me twice that just to walk the dog! 😖
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Check that the pipe between the regulator and the stove is completely clear. It can get blocked.
Also check the hole feeding oil into the scraper part is not partially blocked.
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1 hour ago, ditchcrawler said:
On some of out pumps we had manual lubricating oil pumps that you were supposed to crank to get the oil round the engine before stabbing the button.
Yes some of our biggest gensets had "donkey engines" which you started first to prime and circulate the oil system before the engine started.
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On 22/12/2023 at 17:24, ditchcrawler said:
Looks a bit different now
Photos look hazy, hopefully it is because the agent has removed the property from the market and not because of the wood stove and generator smoke being emitted from the nearby moorings... 🤣
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BT used to run their standby generators monthly to test them. Always to the building load and always until oil and water temperatures had stabilised, typically 10-15 minutes.
I was told on my basic generator maintenance course over 50 years ago now that 90% of the wear takes place during start up and the warming up phase, partly because the oil is cold and thick and hasn't circulated properly.
To minimise the wear and to allow the generator to start at full design loaf BT used electric crankcase heaters to maintain the engine water jacket at normal operating temperature.
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8 hours ago, GUMPY said:
It will be the row of very small holes round the bottom of the burner pot that need cleaning.
Seem to remember it needs a 1mm drill bit between thumb and forefinger.
That was certainly the case with my Kabola Old Dutch when it suddenly started burning with an orange flame a couple of years after I'd adjusted the high flame screw to get a nice blue flame.
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33 minutes ago, David Mack said:
Would CRT permit dredging from the land (if you have suitable access and don't mind all the mess it will make)?
I don't know but I was told that if dredging was required (fortunately it wasn't) thn I would have to use contractors on their approved list.
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17 hours ago, dmr said:
Dredging usually costs a fortune, the dredging itself is not too bad but the modern way of doing things is to bring hoppers and tugs in by road and crane, so its £10,000 before the work even starts.
Very likely, 10 years ago CRT advised me that if my mooring needed dredging it would be at least £6,000.
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2 hours ago, nealeST said:
As there are plenty of houses with gardens that end on the side of canals I’m curious to know how much C&RT charge you to moor up on the end of your own land? Many properties I’ve seen even have their own landing with Armco and suitable provision for a boat. Not many seem to have the actual boat though. Replies much appreciated.
I have an end of garden mooring. CRT charge 50% of the nearest local CRT mooring with equivalent facilities (usually none).
Mine is about 25% of the local marina's charges but the only facilities I have are those I provide myself. You are also responsible for any dredging if required, which as you have to use their approved contractors will cost £000's.
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13 hours ago, David Mack said:
It has been a legal requirement in the UK that railway lines are fenced, since the early days of railways. Originally just simple fences to keep livestock off the line, but in urban areas security fencing is increasingly used to stop trespassers.
Probably because the first person to get run over by a train was an MP.
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19 hours ago, Alan de Enfield said:
Some stations simply have WARNING sign
On the Jubilee Line in London they have even fenced off the stations.
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2 hours ago, ditchcrawler said:
Well it did its job last night, leak on the suction strainer, I had loosened the lid to let air in when I drained the system last month, for some reason it didn't seal when I retightened it, so when I refilled the system yesterday afternoon it started weeping., about a cup full in 6 or 7 hours
My water alarm is really loud. I'm surprised you can put up with the noise for 6-7 hours... 😂🤣
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10 minutes ago, Jon57 said:
Mouse holes are ok if kept clean of leaves and the trim doesn’t change much. Also if in the right place. I Have similar on the front deck . Would have been better just leaving a gap. No problems with them getting blocked unlike the mouse holes, hence the rodding brush. Ok if on board all the time but can be a problem if not.
I've not had any issues in 10 years of ownership with the mouse holes even though the nearby trees drop a lot of leaves on my boat.
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5 minutes ago, Jon57 said:
This also help when your not watching your hand grip.
Mine has drainage holes in the upstand. Here is a close up of the rear most drainage hole.
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This is how mine has the lip on the inside of the handrail.
It also allows the fenders to be moved wherever they are needed by the use of metal clips which hook onto the inner lip.
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Cr@ppy problem on new (old) NB - to cassette or not to cassette?
in Boat Building & Maintenance
Posted · Edited by cuthound
missing space
I halved the cost of my pumpouts when I installed the MCS gauge, simply because it showed that my 'tank full' light comes on just before the tank is half full. It soon paid for itself.