OllyO
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Posts posted by OllyO
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Hi all, we have a (new) Hurth 125 coupled to a Perkins 4104. I know the box isn't ideal for the motor and that everyone seems to prefer the PRM but the Hurth is what we have.
My question is; the forward gear sometimes takes a minute or so to fully engage. Once I up the revs the prop begins to turn but then after that there is a clonk and the it is fully engaged. I should say this is really only when the engine is cold. I know the Hurth box can be good but it is a sensitive box and therefore I don't want to put it under undue strain.
Is this the cause of bad cable adjustment? If so can anyone give me some hints and tips or point me in the direction of a manual?
We changed the oil after 200 hrs as recommended and I think I'll change it again soon as a matter of course. I presume the indentation in the dip stick signifies the high oil level mark?
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Thanks to both, much appreciated.
Mike; I much prefer your design as it does away with heavy channel section. My boat will already require a lot of ballast at the bow as it doesn't sit well in the water and I was concerned that adding six odd meters of channel would not help things. It's cheaper in terms of steel as well.
I'll take a look at your article ie insulation. My original plan was a fairly crude one which was sandwiching some cellotex between ply and the deck itself. When I was bringing my boat down to the Avon after I bought it I had done a quick bodge by gluing some cellotex to the underside of the deck. I was really surprised how much of a difference it made (while it lasted!)
Any thoughts of venting the deck? I was thinking of welding up some low profile mushrooms.
This looks to be the stuff;
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Thanks Mike. I know the site, they do some fantastic work by the looks of it. I'm a metal worker by trade and my boat is moored very near my workshop so I'd like to take advantage of that. Just wondering if anyone has made a weather proof hatch/ window and if they did what arrangement they used to keep the rain out draining properly.
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Last question! What size channel do people generally use?
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My cruiser has a rubbish rear deck that consists of some alluminium plates sat on angle iron. As you can image it doesn't stop a drop of water from entering the bilge. I can't imagine why anybody thought this design was going to work but it is what it is.
I intend cut out all the angle and close in the circumference of the deck by approx 10" with some 5mm plate. To the inner circumference of this I intend to weld some channel to act as guttering. From the either side at the rear of this arrangement I'll weld in some rectangular hollow section, possibly 3"x2" or similar. This will then exit the hull on either side (and be welded in place). I'd like to use pretty decent size stock for this as I don't want to be clearing blockages very often. Would 3x2 be suitable?
The centre of the deck I was going to cover with that ply with hex grip on it (don't know the name).
I know this is a fairly standard method of doing things, can anyone foresee any problems? I really would like a dry bilge, it doesn't sit well with me have any water in there at all.
I have a slight leak from stern tube so have welded up a pan that sits beneath with its own aut bilge pump so that should be covered.
Do I need to vent the deck? I know condensation can build up a surprising amount of moisture.
Lastly, what's the best method of insulating the rear deck to reduce engine noise?
Thanks again
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Hi all,
I have just finished extending our cabin over our front deck. Now I want to put in a window at the bow that is large enough to use as an escape hatch. I've not made a NB window (or any window for that matter!) before and was wondering if someone could give me some pointers. I don't want to weld it on if I can avoid it so planned to have a decent size flange to sit against the cabin wall with a (double?) rebate to present any water getting in. It will have double doors hinged down either side. The top will be curved.
Any thoughts on this would be great.
Cheers,
Olly
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Hi all, My premiers grate is more than a bit knackered and I was wondering if anyone knew where to get a spare? I have rung MC but they don't have one.
Failing that would anybody be willing to let me borrow there's and I can take it to a foundry near me to get another made. Or maybe a batch if anyone is interested?
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Thanks again all, yes it won't do much for the look of the boat but it'll give us a bedroom so the pros out weigh the cons on this one
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Thanks all for the feedback. Yes ballast and escape/ access has been accounted for already. The bow needs to come down anyway so any additional weight there would be welcome, more ballast will need to be added here anyway. The front will have a large opening window/ hatch for escape/ ventilation.
Water Warrior, sounds like you got a similar idea to me. I'm reluctant to loose the front deck but the benefit of the extra cabin space out ways it. The boat will look a bit odd I fear but needs must. The rear deck could extended over as it is approx 10ft but this is more work than I am prepared to do!
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Hi all,
I plan to extend the cabin over the fore deck. It will add around about 6ft of cabin space and once I move the bulkhead it will be around 7ft which will make a perfect size for a bedroom.
I am a metal worker so have all the equipment and materials required I just thought I would mention my plan on here in case anyone has any advice or warnings they want to give me before I get stuck in.
I've not even started to plan this yet but off the top of my head I think one route might be to errect the front wall first and then welding a 'spine' between the existing cabin and this front wall. The sides will then go on and then the roof will be formed over the top, tacking it in position as I go along.
Sides and roof could be 3mm and front wall 4 or 5mm?
I don't want to use anything any thicker ideally as the shapes/ curves will be fairly complex as it come sup towards the bow.
Any ideas suggestions would be welcome
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Cheers Gazza,
I've finished this job and all is well. I made up some studs that go from M12 in the head to 3/8" where they run through the manifold flange and then M8 as they come poke out the end. I've done this so I can have a small nut and be able to get a ring spanner over the end. The M8 nuts are 13mm across so that's perfect. Anything more than 14mm and it would have proved very tricky to actually do up again. Why they didn't make them with a touch more tolerance I don't know.
The studs are in the head with metal epoxy and this has proved a good seal and solid fit. Obviously the long term plan will be to find a new head but I'm in no rush for that now everything is working as it should again.
The heat exanchger I have is a 'Polar Engineering Ltd' one and it turns out they went bust a while back. The core/ tube stack was gone on this but I couldn't find a replacement so I decided to fix it. I tested each tube individually by blocking one end with plastercine and filling them up. I found none of them leaked so were not fractured. I then turned by attention to where they are fixed into the plate on either end and found a few to be a bit loose. I peened over the ends with a ball pein hammer and then decided to metal epoxy the end thoroughly after a very good clean up. I would have asked my neighbour to braze it normally but he is extrmemly busy and I had to get the boat moving again.
Obviously I took care to not get epoxy in the tubes or to block the ends. All tubes were cleaned out and everything went back together agian with some RTV on the joints of the reused end caps.
This seems to be a good way of sorting old tube stacks. If the odd tube is broken it can be sealed up and used again. The little cooling capability you would loose with one or two tubes blocked would be negligable I'd say.
Thoughts?
I also rebuilt the water pump while I was at it as that was weeping, seals and gaskets from ASAP for £15. Job done.
The whole heat exchanger repair job has cost me the price of some new hoses at £21 and 4 new manifold gaskets at 93p each. Plus a few quids worth of epoxy I guess. Not bad considering new ones are going for £600+.
I also got a complete, good nick Bowman heat exchanger for a BMC for £40 in the process. A good spare.
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I know this is now an old thread but I thought id keep it all together.
I have now removed said heat exchnager and found that not water is getting into the exhuast manifold from the header, the casting here is still solid. There is however water dripping from the head on both stern manifold fixing studs. All studs are loose in the head so it looks as though someone has done a rubbish job of helicoiling them in the past and broken into a water gallery. Im hoping to make up some new studsand then drill and tap thehead. The studs will prob have to be half inch in the head. I will then metal epoxy them in and hopfully cure the leak. I know this is essentially a bodge but I really dont want to pull the head!
It looks like the heat exchanger cire has also gone as the header keeps filling up with water when cap off. I have since picked up a complete Bowman heat exchanger in good nick for forty quid that I am hoping to use the core from.
Any advise or suggestions would be really appreciated!
Cheers,
Olly
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Cheers chaps. Hmm, well if I can get it for £300 I might go for it.
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Hi folks,
I have just been down to my local scrap yard and noticed a SAAB 2G with gearbox and flexi coupling there. I'm not in need of it but since its there it seems a shame not to take it off his hands. It is a runner and looks to be in decent nick. It came from a NB but was surplus to requirements. The scrap yard ins't your usual type by the way, he deals in engines and antiques as well as scrap so he has an eye for these things.
Anyway, I asked just out of interest and he said he wanted £400 for it. Worth it? I don't know anything about this engines, it just caught my eye.
Cheers,
Olly
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Cheers JOhn, I've recently purchased three books that will hopfully throw a bit of light on this as well. I'll post as and when I discover info.
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Hi all,
I'm from Taunton but live on the Avon. I've been trying to find out a bit more about the Taunton & Bridgwater canal and more specifically about the types of boats that worked it. What I mean is, was there any notable regional styles of craft and perhaps even some colour scheme/ designs of carrying companies etc. I know this is a long shot since the last commercial boat on the water was 1907 but just thought I'd put the feelers out on the off chance.
Cheers,
Olly
Forgive the type in the title, its meant to be Bridgwater.
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Hi Tony, thanks for your advise, it certianly won't be something I go into half heartedly!
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Alrigh Gazze,
I took a quick look at this heat exchanger today and it strikes me that it wouldn't be an overly hard thing to fabricate. I thought using some 316 stainless and getting my mate to TIG it up should be straight forward. Seems to me that making them out of ally is only going to end in tears on an old diesel like mine that ratlles around, not helped by the added weight of the water inside. I have the same problem with some ally parts on my old Triumph, they justy give up after a while under the vibes (not balanced yet!).
The other thing I was wondering was why the exhaust runs through the tank? Surely that'll heat the water? If I were to make one I'd consider fabricating a seperate exhaust manifold.
What are your thoughts on this one? It's all new to me.
Cheers,
Olly
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Sounds ominous! I'll let you know how we get on. Not heard of Devcon, is it a JB Weld type compound?
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Thanks boht, much appreciated. By the looks of the price replacement is not an option. I'm a metalworker and I have a good mate who is a talented alluminium welder (very handy to know!), so hopefully between us we can find the crack and sort it. Worth a go anyway.
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Alright Gazza,
Pretty sure its the later, I got a contraption bolted to the head that looks a lot like this;
http://www.tadiesels.com/graphics/heat_exchangers/02_bowman.jpg
I fill the water up each moring but by midday its gone whihc makes me think that the fault is in the heat exchanger and not (as you say) due to any water making its way back up from the exhaust system side.
Thanks for your response.
Cheers,
Olly
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Hi all, this is my first post here so forgive me if I am not up to speed on the correct terminology for certain parts.
I have a 4108 running a raw water cooling system. I have a water leak where the heat exchanger bolts to the head but only on the forward most mounting. As the engine revs increase so too does the leak until it forms a substantial jet. I'm new to marine diesels but it seems to me that this should be the case!
The exhaust system is home made and someone has suyggested to me that where the water is injected back into the exhaust after the heat exchanger could be a problem becasue if it is not done at a suitable angle then the water could find itself back up the exhaust. Anyt thoughts on this theory?
Could it just be a damaged heat exchanger?
Cheers,
Olly
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Hi Athy, I only said big twin as I'm into old bikes and an engine of this size in the motorcycle world would be considered a "big twin".
Here is a photo of the boat;
http://cache.apolloduck.com/image_bin/339152_1.jpg
It looks a fair amount more tatty than this now though. The roof has been covered to prevent leaks. I think I found some history on it here;
http://www.piperowners.co.uk/piperowners_history.htm
Reading this it would make sense why it has a wooden roof as it was a throw back from the wooden cabins of the 60's (this being a 70's boat). With regard to fitting a steel roof it wouldn't be a probelm to form the curve. Mild steel in 3mm or 4mm has plenty of movement in it to shape the roof over the existing beams without the need to roll it before fitting. Thinking about it though I'd stick with a wooden roof, I like to stick with how things are.
Thanks Nebulae, that gives me a good idea of what the value of the component parts are.
And thanks everyone for your patience, I'm sure you get a lot of folk like me asking the same questions over and over again!
Cheers,
Olly
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I'm not too worried about the noise of a big twin engine running, sounds great to me! I've not got the room or time to build a boat sadly. I'm concious that it'll be a lot of work, I'll start living in it once it's got a floor though so I won't be under any time constraints. Hmm, I need to have a good think about this one. Plenty more fish in the sea and all that.
Hurth 125 delayed gear selection
in Boat Building & Maintenance
Posted
Nice one Nick, I'll check that out now.
Richard, I will check this evening if I get back from the workshop in time.