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OllyO

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Posts posted by OllyO

  1. Beta marine - continuous beeping?

    in Boat Equipment

    Posted

    19 hours ago, Tony Brooks said:

    That connection would cause the alternator to run at full output so maybe a diode or two have failed. I suspect it may be a main negative diode. SirN will know more I hope.

     

    In theory the alternator should be able to put up with that but in practice, especially at low speeds, I have my doubts.


    Yes that sounds very plausible.  Are the diodes within the alternator?  I may just whip it off and take it to be tested

  5. New boats need room sealed boilers?

    in Boat Equipment

    Posted

    8 hours ago, Mike the Boilerman said:

     

    I think you are confusing the regs that govern building of a new boat (the RCD), and the BSS regs.  Now your boat has been built the only regs that matter are the BSS. (Except for a possible future buyer who might care deeply about box ticking. Most don't though.) 

     

    Despite Alan's scare-mongering posts, the BSS doesn't care who installed your new piezo open boiler, as long as it works safely.  |The BSS is perfectly happy with open flue water heaters. 

     

    Just answering the question you asked, instead of one you didn't!

    That’s brilliant thank you mike, just the answer we were looking for.  I’ll be looking for a new open boiler now.

     

    Question is, which one do we go for?

  9. New boats need room sealed boilers?

    in Boat Equipment

    Posted · Edited by OllyO

    Our boat was built in 2005 and the PO said she was not allowed to fit a normal piezo style boiler due to the change in regs at the time.

     

    I don’t like the boiler we got (Morco FE11), it’s never worked right (I think due to the incorrect flue) it needs 240v power to fire and it’s generally a temperamental pain in the ass.

     

    As I understand it now BSS have relaxed the regs in this department.  Does this mean I am now ‘allowed’ to rip the thing out and replace it with piezo open boiler?

     

    Thanks in advance ? 

  12. Low voltage from inverter

    in Boat Equipment

    Posted

    Hi, I’m having some problems with my room sealed boiler not firing and thus has led me to look at my electrical system.

     

    Thd boiler (morco compact electronic 11ltr) requires 240v to fire.

    I can only get a max of 14.1v on my multimeter when set to 200~ (ac).  

     

    When I run it off the geny I get 110v on the multimeter.

     

    Surely both should be 230/240v or am I testing something wrong?

     

    The boiler is at the end of a ring main and all sockets are testing the same so do not believe it to be voltage drop or fault in wiring.

  14. Cast iron bath waste drain

    in Boat Equipment

    Posted

    Thanks again Sam, yes I intend to fit a shallow trap as well.  It was just getting from 1.5"/ 40mm to 3/4"/ 20mm that was causing me to scratch my head.

     

    Thank you both for your thoughts on baths.  I'm not intending to install this bath on either of your boats so you needn't worry. 

    Black Rose you comment about women is sexist and irrelevant 

    • Greenie 1

  15. Cast iron bath waste drain

    in Boat Equipment

    Posted

    27 minutes ago, Boater Sam said:

    A plastic washing machine drain adaptor will screw onto the 1 1/2" bath waste and give you a 25mm and 19mm outlet for a hose. Have a look at McAlpine waste fittings catalogue.

    Sam, you're a star!  That's perfect.  This has been driving me mad, glad it's such a simple/ cheap fix

    https://www.screwfix.com/p/floplast-hose-connector/48625?tc=BT1&ds_kid=92700020953274405&ds_rl=1249799&ds_rl=1245250&ds_rl=1249481&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI3ar34Jio2gIVTbXtCh2L_gFCEAQYAiABEgIugvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds&dclid=CMT7tvOYqNoCFcFnGwod5zYCzg

  16. Cast iron bath waste drain

    in Boat Equipment

    Posted

    Anyone got a cast iron roll top bath on their boat?

    im trying to work out what to do about the waste drain.  The flange needs to be at least 70mm dia with enough thread for the thickness of the bath (prob 25mm or so)

    ideally it would not be a 40 or 32mm outlet as I'll be attaching it to a gulper with a 20mm fitting. 

    I thought of buying a waste with overflow and blanking the 40mm outlet then using the 20mm overflow spur as the outlet.  The overflow of the bath can then either be blanked or a hose taken from it into the engine bilge where there is an auto bilge pump just in case. Doubt I'd ever manage to over fill it though!!

  17. Wheel house roof design

    in Boat Building & Maintenance

    Posted

    Is there anyone on here with a non-hydraulic collapsible roof to their wheelhouse?  I'm talking about the Dutch barge type.

    Ive all but dissed the design of the windows/ doors but not the roof. Would like it to be insulated, possible made in fibreglass. Don't want canvas

    Sny thoughts/ info/ pics would be greatly appreciated!

  19. Temperature control switch wiring

    in Boat Equipment

    Posted

    I'm wiring in a temperature control switch to operate a pump for our central heating system run off our back boiler.

    just wanted to double check before I went ahead that I'm going to wire it correctly.

    It's clear where the +/- terminals are but would I be correct in saying the terminal marked 'relay contact' should go to the pump so that it is activated are the set temperature? 

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  20. Thermo syphon or pumped

    in Boat Equipment

    Posted · Edited by OllyO

    Thank you both for getting back to me on this, it sounds promising.  When we moved onto this boat they had feed and return pipework all running at floor level so it required a pump running 247 when the stove was on which seemed to me mad.

    It is good to hear that thermosyphon in less than ideal situations can be achieved at least in part with the assistance of a pump.  Certainly installing a pump on the return side triggered by a thermo switch set at 65 (or thereabouts) on the feed will not be a problem at all.

    I have made the coil boiler and I am keen to see what kind of heat it will generate, its a project for a bit of fun really so if it all needs to be scrapped I won't be heart broken but I would certainly like to try and get it to work if possible.

    Do you think if I used the length of coil in the pic ( I intended to cut it down to gunwhale height) and had the expansion pipe rising from the top of the coil and the feed dropping by say four inches to gunwhale height and then horizontal to the back cabin I might get away with it assisted by the pump or am I pushing my luck.  The entire length from boiler to cabin will be insulated.  However I also want to heat a towel rail in the bathroom on the return leg so we shall have to see how that goes.

    Bengo- very promising.  Perhaps I'll just get on and install it and make adjustments if/ when required.  Any recommendations on pumps?  The quieter the better in my view

    image1 (3).JPG

  21. Thermo syphon or pumped

    in Boat Equipment

    Posted

    I'm hoping someone can help me here.  The question is in two parts.  I'd really appreciate it if we could limit the responses to people that have experience/ insight with that would be great as I'm already confused enough as it is!!

    Question 1

    Our stove has a flue boiler so the hot water outlet is around gunwhale height.  Therefore we do not have the normal height increase available to us that thermo syphon requires to work.  However, the boiler is a copper coil of about 18" height which equates to around 32ft in total length.  This is obviously quite a length of pipe that is in effect increasing in height over the course of the coil.

    Our is a barge and we need the first rad to be situated in the back cabin which is right at the other end of the boat to the stove.

    My question is, can a thermo syphon system cope with either a slight decent or horizontal for any distance and if so is there a formula/ calculation that can be made to work this out?

    I have spoken to people who have successfully installed thermo syphon systems with decents and horizontals but I have not been able to get an details from them.  Presumably if there is enough inertia and volume in the initial head of heated water then it can over come the decent/ horizontal.

    Question 2

    If I have to admit defeat and install it as a pumped system them does the pump need to be running the entire time the stove is on?  It seems to me that it would not only be a constant drain on the batteries but also having the continuous hum of a pump working might be annoying?  

    Or should every effort be made to install the system as a thermo syphon and then have a thermo switch that actuates a pump if the water gets sluggish at certain points ie if the water temp exceeds a pre set temperature?

    My last option would be to remove the log store from the stove so that it is dropped by 6", this may then give me enough room to have an acsending pipe to the back cabin without horizontals etc but it will mean taking an angle grinder to a posh stove.

    Any thoughts on this would be greatly appreciated.  I only want to do this job once!

     

     

  23. Chimney collar confusion

    in Boat Equipment

    Posted

    Ended up making this. Found some 6.5" OD CHS off cut welded it to a 1/4" flange I cut and tapped it for six M10 grub screws to hold/ centralise flue section with storm collar welded to it.  Cavity can be insulated if required though practically the outer tube doesn't get hot.  5" flue internally. Takes a standard 5" flue pipe on the outside. We got a nice long length as we have a mooring, can be easily removed for cruising or shorter length fitted.

    Not a perfect system but much prefer it to the normal method and easily serviceable 

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