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Posts posted by Sea Dog
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2 hours ago, Friendly kayaker said:
I'm here to learn to be a better kayak user of canals.
These posts were all about what was happening in 2014 - I think you'll find everything's fine nowadays - before canoes it was fishermen and we've moved on to cyclists now.
Just joshin' - welcome to the forum. It's mostly narrowboat centric, but I hope you find some helpful stuff.
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3 minutes ago, enigmatic said:
This is making me think could have overstayed on 2 day moorings a lot.
It would be easy for the less scrupulous to collaborate and identify lots of areas that are rarely or never checked. That said, many/most of these are probably already known - we've all seen boats which haven't moved since just before the Coronation (God rest King George V's soul).
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How can a thread entitled "Think I might be in trouble" go for 14 pages? When I ask that question, my wife leaves me in no doubt within seconds!
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4 hours ago, tyrone1990 said:
Hi guys my girlfriend and me have just bought a 52ft david piper boat and we want to know...
Take a look at www.piperowners.co.uk for some info on Piper boats. Dot Piper, wife of David, mum of Simon, still answers questions there.
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12 minutes ago, Rob-M said:
Maybe you do, but having gone in to facilities to use a shower and it looked like someone had liberally sprayed the contents of their pump out tank over the entire inside of the building I'm not a fan of self pumpouts especially when they aren't using a designated pumpout facility.
Most of us think of a 3" pipe gulping turds at high pressure - I know I did. However, as I rather reluctantly found out from a friend who had his own kit, a macerator pump out can be a steady gently flow of brown water through a ¾“ pipe with no evidence of solids whatsoever. Less of an issue than a cassette full of brown trout, I'd suggest
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- Popular Post
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1 hour ago, Heartland said:But how was he caught on a bicycle by a plain-clothed police officer?
Perhaps it was during a routine check to ensure cyclists are riding with care and consideration when using canal towpaths?
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7 hours ago, blackrose said:
No need to say it twice. I wasn't apologising to you, it's just an expression. 😏
Sorry I apologised twice...
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We had 5 years in Droitwich Spa Marina until about 5 years ago. Nick and his team were excellent and we thoroughly enjoyed our time there. Reasonable walk into Droitwich, easy drive to Worcester.
The river issue at DSM is the Salwarpe if you choose to go down the Droitwich canal to join the Severn as it can decrease the already low headroom in the M5 culvert. Once you've done that once or twice, you'd probably choose to go down the B&W to Worcester (we popped to Worcester quite a lot) where you can join the Severn with appropriate river level planning. We never had a problem on either route. The nicest section of the Severn (imho) is between Worcester and Stourport, which is about half a day taking you to the rather lovely Staffs & Worcs. Alternatively, you can go up the B&W via the Tardebigge flight either on to Birmingham or down the North Stratford, which is never a problem other than during winter maintenance. Those options could get dull after a while I suppose, but the OP appears to be choosing a base for a while then moving on so not really an issue here.
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51 minutes ago, Jerra said:
Personally, I can believe their figures, but then again I am not a cynic.
I guess that'll be me labelled then!
Just pointing out that it's far easier to adjust a sign to either encourage or bamboozle than it is to achieve the figures in the first place. Some of the posts above suggest there's a fair bit of greenwashing going on rather than actual recycling. Holding councils to account is a tool in the toolbox of ensuring genuine action.
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21 minutes ago, haggis said:
I think on a canal boat you would be most unlikely standing on the gunwales while you inserted the nappy pin or goat chain. 🙂
Not least because how would you be able to reach to get an appropriate angle on your head and stern lines? Without this, you'd spend your days shouting "slow down!" at every passing boat.
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7 hours ago, cj1234 said:
hiya, i am looking at buying
If you are still "looking at" buying a boat and already have beam related concerns about where you can cruise, why don't you look at ones which don't place such restrictions upon you?
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On 07/09/2023 at 18:43, Jerra said:
Ours has never fallen below 60% and currently stands at 67%
10 minutes ago, DHutch said:That's a bit better!
I could make you a sign that made it look a whole lot better than that. What would you like, 76%? 87%?
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Typical new build boats for the 'aspirational market' you'd be aiming at (as opposed to the experienced boater who already knows what they want) appear to be in the region of £150k nowadays. 2% of that being £3k seems a bit unrealistic when you can simply look at previous the builder's previous boats. Just my thoughts...
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1 hour ago, Mike Tee said:
^^^ and is this the result of a thin coating rubbed off almost immediately? Looks good.
Lots of products do that, some with more effort than others - how long it lasts is what counts.
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2 minutes ago, Tracy D'arth said:
Ask LRE, they will find it no doubt.
Another recommendation for Lancashire Rotating Electrics from me too. They identified my Iskra alternator when the engine mariniser (Beta - also usually a font of knowledge) could not. They then supplied a new regulator.
They're on 01772623600
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2 minutes ago, cuthound said:
Although this site is American, I don't suppose their disinfection rates are much different to our
They say 6% bleach, so 600ml per 100 litres..
It might well be right, it just sounds a lot. I wonder whether that allows for the usual thin bleach in the UK being 5% sodium hypochlorite? Anyway, the Americans bleach their chickens too you know - bit free and easy with the bleach in the former colonies if you ask me!
I think I'll stick with the Elsan product where there's less scope for a horlicks with the dosage - nobody likes bleach in their horlicks at any rate.
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I've usually gone up one and down t'other, so they both have their merits albeit slightly different ones.
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1 minute ago, cuthound said:
The correct ratio for disinfecting water tanks is 500ml for every 100 litres of water.
Really? Two and a half litres of bleach in my tank sounds a bit excessive.
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I use Elsan Fresh Water Tank cleaner which is purpose made for the very job itself. Pop it in a full tank, draw some into the pipes by running each tap. Drain and refill the next morning and you can then drink the water. (Obvs, read the instructions for yourself).
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This bit doesn't seem excessively restrictive:
This is a leisure site and is determined by us to be a mooring site for the storage of boats between leisure use, customers may well spend weekends on this site, and occasionally longer periods, but it is not sold as, or intended to be suitable for long term residential use
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1 hour ago, DHutch said:
You said in your first post the the hull was 'throughly hand preped' and mentioned vactan, did you bare metal and vactan the whole hull? With some coating retained in a few pits, or what there a good amount of coating retention in other areas?
I scraped all previous bitumen blacking off with a hand scraper, wire brushed either hand or machine where there was still bitumen residue and then applied Vactan (rather than used a grinder and remove metal) where there was any remaining evidence of rust. There really wasn't anything of the previous coating other than the odd "stain". I didn't find evidence that the Vactan had caused any poor adherence.
The main area of failure was moisture creeping under the coating around the anodes. I can only surmise this area was very smooth and perhaps needed extra keying and also an edge appeared where the 2 pack met the rough edges of the anodes as the magnesium receded. I could have 2-pack repaired this, but what tipped the balance for me was a few underwater scrapes through to bare metal, not a nagging concern I can live with. However, these had not badly rusted, so they weren't actually a disaster.
Perhaps SA2.5 levels of prep would have prevented these issues, but reducing that level of prep to hand tool level was the whole point of the SML Ballastic Black 2 pack epoxy primer. If the boat was a marina queen, I'd probably continued my plan to repair with Jotamastic 90, but with a mooring on the Shroppie and enjoying extended cruising I thought the scraping risk too great. I'm still considering the Debdale Zinga and 2 pack option for next time though, as finding a slipway seems to be an ever increasing struggle. It's a conundrum.
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Radio Frequency Propagation hasn't changed, so stick with the Log Periodic if you've been happy with it. No power required either. Win-win.
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17 hours ago, blackrose said:
No sorry I don't buy that theory.
No need to apologise to me - it's not my theory and I'm not selling it!
17 hours ago, blackrose said:No sorry I don't buy that theory.
No need to apologise to me - it's not my theory and I'm not selling it!
Bl##dy racing canoes'
in General Boating
Posted
I contemplated adding those, but if I'd included everything folk get all steamed up about I'd still be typing!