BMC problems

This. Or save £150 and buy a manual valve. Or how about one (or two) of these; http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12VDC-1-2-Electric-Solenoid-Valve-For-Water-Air-Flow-Switch-N-C-Normal-Closed-/400970852326 Then the switch on the sink leaves it closed and the switch on the shower opens it.

It's 4.9 actually that you're quoting and selective quoting, i.e. ignoring 4.9(b ) does your argument no favours and informs nobody. Which is common-sense. If you earth the neutral of a centre-tapped inverter or a Travel Power all you will achieve is a nasty smell and possible a fire.

No. ISO 13297 section 7(1) refers. And this may be helpful to the OP http://www.canalworld.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=14776&page=1entry231710

which one? do you have a link please?

Anyone with experience of these; http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SPINFLO-CARA-CARAVAN-MOTORHOME-BOAT-LPG-GAS-OVEN-WITH-GRILL-DOOR/331680676593

Isn't that a full cooker? There's currently a washing machine under my hob with some convoluted (literally) plumbing. Easier to find somewhere for an oven than that. *than move that*

Suggestions please for a boat oven and grill. absolutely : LPG no fan oven or substantial electronics preferably 12V ignition cook friendly - a Radford doesn't really cut it ( or does it ? opinions please) an easy way to disperse waste heat not too expensive ( though I'm willing to spend a bit ) Anyone bought one recently they love or hate?

Edit: wrong thread

You have put your finger on my exact problem. The 'green' is actually bright blue (regentex do a lot of blues) and the khaki is just wrong. I'm much more thinking racing green / brunswick green.

Got it, thanks. I've asked about weights. A related question; what weight of canvas would narrow boat cloths be made from?

At Hamble? Their website gives no clues as to canvas.

Does anyone know of an acrylic canvas or material like Regentex that comes in 12oz (407gsm) and racing green (or a general canal-like green) ? For a pram cover. So far I've managed to find one or the other but not both. Many thanks

Total no-no then? It won't torque down properly like that? Please bear in mind I'm not an engineer

Thanks all. I am (enormously) reluctant to dismantle rocker shaft and to have to loosen in after.... I'm also ( slightly less) reluctant to buy £20 of tools that I will almost never use and just make my toolbox heavier. (And a 1/2" 3/8" adaptor) One last question; torquing the first 10 then fitting the rocker shaft? Probably OK, bit risky or total no-no? Size is 11/16" crows foot?

Another question.... On one of the rocker pillars, above the oil way is a screw held in place by a special washer on one of the smaller rocker shaft studs. What is this? And should it be adjusted ?

Does anyone have this tool, or a fabricated alternative that i could borrow so I can torque down the head in the proscribed sequence? It's impossible to tighten down as per the manual without it as 3 are hidden by the rocker shaft. The alternative is to torque down the ones without the rockers in place followed by the 4 rocker shaft ones. As a bodge, am I asking for trouble doing this?

I hummmed and I haaaaed and I thought and I thunk.... but it's not going to happen but maybe someone here might also crave a thing of such beauty? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Esse-Doric-classic-compact-range-cooker-/271487828269

No it's definitely a BMC 1500, it's the senders I've got confused. Though from the picture posted by Springy I've found the oil pressure sender. I'm still not totally clear on the set up. There's nothing in the manual about it.

No Tony I think I've got my pressure gauge and temperature sender mixed up. From the posts on these topics that i now realsie i should have done 1 Have I got this right; There is a temperature sender front top and oil pressure outlet back left behind the DPA pump the thing I'm not clear on because it will be a while before I get to the boat is whether there's a separate oil pressure switch if it's not separate how does the oil pressure gauge / warning light work?

No. Nothing. Just a alternator light.

That's the sender at the back of the engine, yes? How is it wired? and is it possible to do a warning buzzer?

mechanical? I assume you mean hydraulic? Where do I get one of those from? And the pipe run could be quite tortuous though not too far up, will that matter? so this gauge; http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Smiths-oil-gauge-Mini-Cooper-Triumph-Austin-MG-Morris-Lotus-Elan-7-Healey-/301180931244 Will this fit; http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Classic-Mini-MG-Smiths-Oil-Pressure-Gauge-Fitting-Kit-1275-998-848-1098-/110770295755 (1500 D not listed) or do I need an adaptor? and where does the warning light happen?

The sender is the one at the front of the engine yes? Electrical? Takes one wire, earths through the block? Which gauge? where do I get it (cheapest)? Test the gauge by 1. shorting? 2. going open circuit?

How does the temperature monitoring work? Raw water cooling and a Bowman exchanger with wet exhaust. is it electrical? Where can I get the sender (not Calcutt or ASAP apparently)? What gauge do I need? Is there a cheap way of getting one of these (car breakers?) Where does the sender go? is it on the heat exchanger or on the engine? is there a way of fitting an over-temperature buzzer? - you can't see the water outlet.

Phew. I was about to get confused there. So a couple of things to try. 1. Check rocker clearances Start engine and allow to run up to temperature 2. Leave idle speed alone and try tweaking injector pump clockwise 1° look for improvement 3. Up the idle speed a little, if cures leave alone, if not try rotating pump. 4. remove injectors and service (or replace with the ones offered by p6rob) 5. check the static compression It will be the weekend now before I can get to the boat, so I'll report back when I've tried these things. Thanks everyone. I have got rather a good workshop manual. Includes, maintenance, overhaul and pictures of the service tools. If anyone needs a copy give me a shout.