alright serry

Had a look today as we are heading that way Easter no work started on lock just all chained up will be contacting CRT

Hi everyone, tony i am very sorry if I have upset you. I posted this, not my husband before you replied as he has been worried about the engine seizing up potential and I wanted to try and make sure I found out about this today. I have just seen your response thank you I know he has been very grateful for your help which is why I added to the bottom of the initial posting that we had received some very helpful advice from you. I know he is going to try out some of your suggestions bug just needs to move the boat first. . It was just the seizing up potential that I wanted help on. I am sure we don't need to worry about that now having read your email. Mark99 is right that we have spent a huge amount of money on buying the boat, have little left, feel ripped off by the marina, frustrated. Disappointed and no sleep all rolled into one! It's hard to think we tried to do everything by the book, full survey etc and still end up in a mess Sorry again if I offended you and many thanks for all the help Joanne

Hi, Please can anyone help! We recently purchased a 70ft narrowboat (2007) with a Barrus Shire 45 engine. We have 4 ways in which we should get hot water from the boat which are listed as follows: 1. From the engine when running. 2. Eberspacher diesel system. 3. Log Burner and back boiler. 4. Immersion Heater Problem 1 We are new to boating and have only just bought the boat which was built in 2007. The engine is a Barrus Shire 45 and the coolant system is plumbed to a twin calorifier at the centre of the boat. Circulation is aided by a pump in the engine bay. When the engine is running, the hot water in the calorifier does not get hot. The expansion tank in the engine bay is also staying cool. Problem 2 The Eberspacher and Log burner are linked on one header tank separate to the engine header tank. When the eberspacher is running we get hot radiators ( 4 in total) but no hot water. The header tank is located in a wardrobe at the back of the boat which gets hot but with this system does not boil over. Problem 3 If we light the log burner a pump which is located at the back of the burner starts pumping that is controlled by a heat temp switch I think its called which senses the pipe getting hot and sends a signal for the pump to work and a light illuminates to show this is working. However the header tank which is shared with the eberspacher system does not get hot and pressure builds forcing the liquid out the small outlet pipe of the top of the tank. We get no hot radiators or no hot water. The pump starts to make a loud noise and we have had to put out the fire. We purchased the boat from a Marina who was acting as a brokerage for the vendor. We also paid over £800.00 for a full survey and this was not discovered. The Marina have just charged us £640.00 to relocate the old header tank from its location in the well deck to the wardrobe in the back of the boat as they said it was too low and have also replaced a pressure release valve and refilled with antifreeze and bled the system. This has failed to resolve the problem and the marina are now wanting over £2000 to re-pipe the whole boat! Summary We can only get hot water from the immersion heater. Eberspacher heats radiators but again no hot water - expansion tank gets hot but doesn't overflow Log burner does not heat water or radiators and header tank stays cold and the coolant is forced from top of bottle Engine doe not heat water and header tank bottle stays cold - Marina have replaced a relay on the engine pump but this has failed to resolve the problem Urgent Concern I need to move the boat this weekend to its new mooring (7 hrs cruising) and from the reading I have been doing I am wondering if it is possible that it is one of the engine thermostats that has failed. Ours has 2 thermostats, one at 71 degrees and a second at 88 - IF it is a thermostat and i move the boat - is there a chance that the engine will overheat and seize??? How can i eliminate this being a problem before I move the boat or is it worth replacing them to be sure and safe? Any help greatly appreciated - boat must move on Friday! We have had some helpful suggestions from Tony Brooks with regards to the first part of the email but the urgent concern bit only came to mind last night and made me worry a bit - Thanks in advance Joanne

Hi not too many requirements really water would be No1, followed by car parking. We don't need electric. In an ideal world a linear mooring like I have now but I am coming to the conclusion I might just have to grab anything I can to start with any other alternative recommendations would be appreciated thanks

Hi I have residential moorings in Cheshire but am relocating south next year due to work. I have heard about moorings at Hampton Hall Farm on the GU Canal but i cannot locate any contact details for them to see if i can add to the waiting list. Does anyone have any contact details for them or indeed any other suitable moorings in the area. I am quite flexible with location anywhere south of tring on the GU, anywhere on the kennet and avon up to bath and anywhere on the paddington arm of the GU would be do-able. Its a little difficult with not actually living in that area at the moment to find good information so any help appreciated. Moorings not needed until June / July 2014 but am willing to either go on a waiting list and if needed pay in advance to secure. Its for a 70ft narrowboat Thanks

We are new to boating a marina quoted £1800 to change will there be some sort of stop tap on the water tank and where is it likely to be

I am considering changing the pumpout Loo to a cassette toilet. The tank is relatively easy accessible but how do you disconnect the water supply and is it easy to extend water supply to a thetford Model 403 which has water connection rather than filler tank. We are new to boating so if anyone who may be able to advise in chester area would be much appreciated.