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Saint Paul

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Posts posted by Saint Paul

  2. Window installation

    in Boat Building & Maintenance

    Posted

    I am removing existing windows, having them powder coated and intend to reinstall.  The existing screws are brass slowed heads.  I did not expect them to be brass and very difficult to extract in one piece.

    What are the recommended screw type.

    Any additional advice appreciated.

     

     

     

  3. Gas Safe Engineers - Recommandations

    in Boat Building & Maintenance

    Posted

    2 hours ago, LadyG said:

    Aha, my Boat  Gas Safe examiner was asked to sort the gas then do the BSC, he removed the old armoured hose because it cannot be examined for condition, he put in a coil of gas pipe so that he can pull the (fixed) gas stove out. I don't know how to do it, and the  method, may be his interpretation, but I don't think he made it up.

    He charged £100 for the work done, included some other essentials, about an hour or so,  and £160 for the examination and the Certificate. He was thorough and his time included travel.

    I think I found him on yellow pages online.

     

  4. Gas Safe Engineers - Recommandations

    in Boat Building & Maintenance

    Posted

    Can anyone recommend a Gas Safe Engineer near Tamworth.  I just need a new shielded flexible hose connecting to existing Hob on my son`s boat.   This is to sort out the bodge job of the previous owner (I think).  See pics attached.   You can see that the final connection to the hob has a Cut hose connected to a threaded union.  Its a very simple job but will need testing afterwards.  Likely costs would be helpful.

     

    Soz cannot attach pic file size too large for system.

     

    Any help gratefully appreciated.

  7. Richard Milligan?

    in Vintage Engine Forum

    Posted

    Has anyone had recent contact with Richard Milligan (Big Hands Milligan).  I have tried to contact him on his mobile a number of time over the last two weeks but to no avail.   Not spoken with him since last year.   Very unlike him not to respond so somewhat concerned.

     

    Be grateful for any info.

  8. Kabola Heating Boiler

    in Boat Equipment

    Posted

    Thanks for your response.  Good to know someone has managed it.

    The boat is moored at Alvecote on the Coventry.   Some way from you I believe.

    Any description would be helpful.  Its just trying to understand what I need to remove to gain access to the burner pot to connect the sensor end of the coupler.

    I would appreciate any explanation as to steps and "hints".

  9. Kabola Heating Boiler

    in Boat Equipment

    Posted

    Does anyone have any experience of replacing a Thermocouple Sensor on an E3 Kabola Boiler?

     

    I have a new sensor to fit but I need to know if it can be done without removing the burner basin, hence dismantling the entire boiler casing.

     

    Any help/advice greatly appreciated.

  11. Removal/installation of Engine

    in Boat Building & Maintenance

    Posted

    Hi Folks,

    After the replacement/refurb of injectors to cure a "white smoke" issue - which did not cure the smoke problem, I now find I have a knackered engine - head gasket, bent conrod and two pistons corroded by water ingress.

    It looks like I may have to get a refurbished engine!!!!

    I can get the cost of a likely engine replacement but does anyone have any idea of the likely cost of removal of the old and installation of the new??

    Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

  12. Nanni Kubota Injectors

    in Boat Building & Maintenance

    Posted

    Thanks for your help guys.  Two injectors were beyond repair and needed replacement and two needed refurb.

    However, injectors were not the only problem.   Appears I have a bend conrod, two corroded pistons due to water ingress!!!  Never rains but.........

    So it now looks like a rebuild/major repair or a refurbished engine as a replacement.

    Does anyone have any idea/experience of the likely cost of removal of old and installation of new???

    I will re-post these new issue with a new description also.

    Again many thanks.

  13. Nanni Kubota Injectors

    in Boat Building & Maintenance

    Posted

    I have a Nanni 4.150HE Engine which is based on a Kubota v1505.

    I need to possibly replace one or more injectors.   Are they likely to be the same spec/type in the Kubota v1505 base engine and in the marinised version (Nanni 4.150HE)?    Would Nanni likely change spec of injectors in the marinising process?

     

    Any opions or advice greatly appreciated.

     

  15. Kabola E3 Thermocouple Valve/Sensor

    in Boat Equipment

    Posted

    I have a Kabola E3 3.3kw Serial No 16007 (which I believe is the old type). It is fed by a day header tank and heats 3 rads on a gravity fed Ch system (no pumps).  Following the day tank running dry and being unable to relight I have almost)every thing I have read on site (particularly some great historical posts by KK) but to no avail!

    I have cleaned all pipes from tank to oil controller, checked/cleaned oil controller, (it was clean anyway), checked fuel filter at bottom of Oil Controller (clean as a whlstle),  cleaned pipe from Oil Controller to soot scraper, cleaned burner pot thoroughly, several times, checked/cleaned chimney.   Current Status:  Oil gets through to float chamber in oil controller (if I keep button on Thermocouple Valve and spills into burner basin very slowly (takes 4 Mins of holding button up to get flow into burner pot (that ain`t  normal).   When I light goes out soon as meths burn away.

     

    I am beginning to suspect the flow hole into the soot scraper rod area part blocked (I will disassemble try again or that I may have a faulty thermocouple valve or sensor.   QUESTION - How do I test in situ?  I thought maybe I could remove oil controller top, mop out oil, heat up sensor inside burner pot (with mini blow torch)- see if it would open fuel flow to oil controller - that would prove that sensor and valve are working (but not if sensor is OK but value not - I know).   Would this seem a sensible approach or any alternative ideas or suggestions anything would be greatly appreciated - End of my patience!!

     

  16. Lister Blackstone 3G Gearbox

    in Boat Building & Maintenance

    Posted

    Just bought new boat (well new to me anyway) it has a JP2 circa 1936 with a Blackstone 3G gearbox.  Using push/pull rod to change gear it slips out of gear when in forward motion unless you keep pressure on rod (it tends to creep backwards and slip out of gear.   Same in reverse - have to keep pulling pressure on rod to keep it in gear.

    Suspect I need to check reverse and forward adjusters in the Blackstone.   Does anyone know if they can be accessed and adjusted with just the top plate removed from the gearbox or do I have to split the gearbox in half and remove top half of casing?

    Also what type and thickness of gasket is used?

    Any advice greatly appreciated.

     

  18. What Generator capacity to use with 60amp Charger

    in Boat Building & Maintenance

    Posted

    The 'power factor' on battery chargers is notoriously poor, with many being as low as 0.5 (50%) and most being in the order of 0.65 (65%) and some with all the electronic gubbins getting up 1.0 (100%)

     

    Mastervolt are one of the better brands so lets be conservative and say their pf is 0.75.

     

    w= AxV

     

    w = 60 x 14 divided by 0.75

     

    Is about 1150 watts

     

    Even if you take 60a at 12,5 volts that 1000 Watts

     

    Your 1000w generator is probably only something like 850 continuous and only 1000 peak.

     

    I would suggest that you should buy something like a Kipor 2000 which is 1600w continuous

     

    Edit to add :

    Just checked & the Honda is actually rated at 900w so you are overloading it by (something like) 25%

    Thanks Alan,

     

    Extremely clear advice. Should have took wife`s advice also - she told me to get the bigger 2k one!

     

    Off to see what`s on ebay!

    You can reduce the amount of power to the charger....easy if you have a MasterView Easy control panel....slightly harder with the laptop interface and a bit of a pain with the DIP switches. The charger output is reduced a well of course.

     

    Cheers

     

    Gareth

    Thanks Gareth for your help,

     

    Think I will have to go the expensive route and get a bigger geny. Have of Masterview control panel or laptop interface - dip switch settings a bit beyond my capability.

    Just a suggestion - run your engine for an hour after which point your battery won't be looking for 60amps, and you can then run the charger off the generator ok.

    Thanks Alan,

     

    This is the route I was forced to use but your other advice gives me the confidence to go for the more permanent genny upgrade solution.

  19. What Generator capacity to use with 60amp Charger

    in Boat Building & Maintenance

    Posted

    Hi to any electrical experts.

     

    How do I determine what size of generator I need to charge batteries through a Master Volt Mass Combi 12/1200 - 60.

     

    Its an integrated inverter/charger with a 60 amp charger and I am using a Honda EU Inverter/generator 10i to charge 3 x 120 amp/h domestic bank and 120 amp/h starter battery. The generator is just not up to job and goes into overload and cuts out the charger if the batter volts are down below 12.4 volts. If above that level it appears to charge OK without the generator going into overload.

     

    It seems to me that I need a higher wattage generator but how do I determine the right size to cope with the 60 amp integral charger?

     

    I don`t want to buy a 2k generator and find that does not have the capacity either.

     

    Mass Combi works fine when on mains electric and all batteries are new.

     

    Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

  20. New Owner - RN DM2

    in National/Russell Newbery

    Posted

    Hi, my DM2 is a 2012 build, in answer to your questions I can only tell you what mine is like:-

    1.....oil pressure is 40 when cold, 30 - 35 when hot

    2....60° thermostat fitted and under heavy use it has risen to 65°

    3....I used normal ethylene glycol which has proved ok

    4...my driveplate casing is completly dry, but probably because its only 3yr old

    Many Thanks. I must check water temp/level again I thought it was 80 degs but hard to see. Oil seems OK then and will clean/check driveplate. Hope its OK and does not an arm and a leg to fix it oil leak persists.

     

    Regards

     

    George

    to echo Linnit's answer ours is a 1987 build and runs at about the same oil pressure.

    Thermostat is set at 60 C and doesn't seem to go over that.

    I have not noticed any oil in the drive plate casing and would imagine that is a seal leaking.

    I use normal Halfords antifreeze. The pink stuff.

    Many Thanks. Will proceed as my previouis post re drive plate casing. Is it true that the water cooling system can hold up to 100 ltrs? That would make the most expensive antifreeze change I have ever had to do!!

     

    Regards,

     

    George

  21. New Owner - RN DM2

    in National/Russell Newbery

    Posted

     

    The only manual I can find relates to the DX1 engine (same bore/stroke and general configuration). Oil pressure on that should be 30/40 psi when hot, adjustable via pressure relief valve screw located on front cover under crankshaft.

     

    Water outlet temperature for max efficiency 80 degC.

     

    If oil in drive housing is same as engine oil, probably rear crankshaft oil seal weeping.

     

    Contact Russell Newbery

    That is very helpful. Thank you.

     

    I suspected the oil in the drive housing would be some sort of seal leak. It sounds an expensive "fix". Engine not using/loosing oil at moment - dip stick level not dropping after 8 hour cruise and maintaining 32 psi pressure. So maybe it is a gradual build up of oil in drive housing. I will empty, clean and see if anymore oil accumulates. Water is operating at 80 degs.

     

    Regards,

     

    George

  24. New Owner - RN DM2

    in National/Russell Newbery

    Posted

    I am a new owner of a DM2, 1987 vintage I believe judging by reaearch on the serial number.

     

    I have a few simple questions that I would be most grateful if anyone could help with:

     

    1. Oil Pressure - what psi would you expect under normal cruising conditions and/or when warm on idle.
    2. What normal running temperature (water) would you expect.
    3. What type of antifreeze should I use "OAT" or non "OAT".
    4. The casing which joins the engine to the gearbox with a large access cutout in the side (bell housing?) - I have oil about 1/2 inch deep in the bottom. Is this normal or should it be completely dry?

    Any help greatly appreciated.

     

    George

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