Saint Paul

Thanks guys will look on inside of boat to ascertain what screw enter into wood or just self tapped into the boat steal. They certainly look like normal brass screws to me. Will be at boat on Monday to check.

I am removing existing windows, having them powder coated and intend to reinstall. The existing screws are brass slowed heads. I did not expect them to be brass and very difficult to extract in one piece. What are the recommended screw type. Any additional advice appreciated.

Can anyone recommend a Gas Safe Engineer near Tamworth. I just need a new shielded flexible hose connecting to existing Hob on my son`s boat. This is to sort out the bodge job of the previous owner (I think). See pics attached. You can see that the final connection to the hob has a Cut hose connected to a threaded union. Its a very simple job but will need testing afterwards. Likely costs would be helpful. Soz cannot attach pic file size too large for system. Any help gratefully appreciated.

I am looking to purchase a boat which was over plated (bottom) some six years ago. Does anyone have any opinions of the likely lifespan of over plating or any other advice; negative or positive! Naturally I would have a survey done.

Sorry - Blackhands it is! Must be an age thing - (on my part). Thanks for the info though.

Has anyone had recent contact with Richard Milligan (Big Hands Milligan). I have tried to contact him on his mobile a number of time over the last two weeks but to no avail. Not spoken with him since last year. Very unlike him not to respond so somewhat concerned. Be grateful for any info.

Thanks for your response. Good to know someone has managed it. The boat is moored at Alvecote on the Coventry. Some way from you I believe. Any description would be helpful. Its just trying to understand what I need to remove to gain access to the burner pot to connect the sensor end of the coupler. I would appreciate any explanation as to steps and "hints".

Does anyone have any experience of replacing a Thermocouple Sensor on an E3 Kabola Boiler? I have a new sensor to fit but I need to know if it can be done without removing the burner basin, hence dismantling the entire boiler casing. Any help/advice greatly appreciated.

To answer the questions raised so far. The boat is a 47ft BCN Tug with a Nanni 4.150 HE (keel cooled) based on Kubota v1505. Trad stern. for Tony - the injectors replace were corroded badly.

Hi Folks, After the replacement/refurb of injectors to cure a "white smoke" issue - which did not cure the smoke problem, I now find I have a knackered engine - head gasket, bent conrod and two pistons corroded by water ingress. It looks like I may have to get a refurbished engine!!!! I can get the cost of a likely engine replacement but does anyone have any idea of the likely cost of removal of the old and installation of the new?? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks for your help guys. Two injectors were beyond repair and needed replacement and two needed refurb. However, injectors were not the only problem. Appears I have a bend conrod, two corroded pistons due to water ingress!!! Never rains but......... So it now looks like a rebuild/major repair or a refurbished engine as a replacement. Does anyone have any idea/experience of the likely cost of removal of old and installation of new??? I will re-post these new issue with a new description also. Again many thanks.

I have a Nanni 4.150HE Engine which is based on a Kubota v1505. I need to possibly replace one or more injectors. Are they likely to be the same spec/type in the Kubota v1505 base engine and in the marinised version (Nanni 4.150HE)? Would Nanni likely change spec of injectors in the marinising process? Any opions or advice greatly appreciated.

Many thanks. Your comments have helped me focus my thinking that I am on the right track. The final feed pipe to the soot scraper and feed hole are my next course of action. Followed by the thermocouple if the later does not resolve the problem. Will have to wait a week though till next at boat.

I have a Kabola E3 3.3kw Serial No 16007 (which I believe is the old type). It is fed by a day header tank and heats 3 rads on a gravity fed Ch system (no pumps). Following the day tank running dry and being unable to relight I have almost)every thing I have read on site (particularly some great historical posts by KK) but to no avail! I have cleaned all pipes from tank to oil controller, checked/cleaned oil controller, (it was clean anyway), checked fuel filter at bottom of Oil Controller (clean as a whlstle), cleaned pipe from Oil Controller to soot scraper, cleaned burner pot thoroughly, several times, checked/cleaned chimney. Current Status: Oil gets through to float chamber in oil controller (if I keep button on Thermocouple Valve and spills into burner basin very slowly (takes 4 Mins of holding button up to get flow into burner pot (that ain`t normal). When I light goes out soon as meths burn away. I am beginning to suspect the flow hole into the soot scraper rod area part blocked (I will disassemble try again or that I may have a faulty thermocouple valve or sensor. QUESTION - How do I test in situ? I thought maybe I could remove oil controller top, mop out oil, heat up sensor inside burner pot (with mini blow torch)- see if it would open fuel flow to oil controller - that would prove that sensor and valve are working (but not if sensor is OK but value not - I know). Would this seem a sensible approach or any alternative ideas or suggestions anything would be greatly appreciated - End of my patience!!

Just bought new boat (well new to me anyway) it has a JP2 circa 1936 with a Blackstone 3G gearbox. Using push/pull rod to change gear it slips out of gear when in forward motion unless you keep pressure on rod (it tends to creep backwards and slip out of gear. Same in reverse - have to keep pulling pressure on rod to keep it in gear. Suspect I need to check reverse and forward adjusters in the Blackstone. Does anyone know if they can be accessed and adjusted with just the top plate removed from the gearbox or do I have to split the gearbox in half and remove top half of casing? Also what type and thickness of gasket is used? Any advice greatly appreciated.

Has anyone had a Stern Tube repacked at a Boat Yard, if so can you give me any indication as to costs?

Thanks Alan, Extremely clear advice. Should have took wife`s advice also - she told me to get the bigger 2k one! Off to see what`s on ebay! Thanks Gareth for your help, Think I will have to go the expensive route and get a bigger geny. Have of Masterview control panel or laptop interface - dip switch settings a bit beyond my capability. Thanks Alan, This is the route I was forced to use but your other advice gives me the confidence to go for the more permanent genny upgrade solution.

Hi to any electrical experts. How do I determine what size of generator I need to charge batteries through a Master Volt Mass Combi 12/1200 - 60. Its an integrated inverter/charger with a 60 amp charger and I am using a Honda EU Inverter/generator 10i to charge 3 x 120 amp/h domestic bank and 120 amp/h starter battery. The generator is just not up to job and goes into overload and cuts out the charger if the batter volts are down below 12.4 volts. If above that level it appears to charge OK without the generator going into overload. It seems to me that I need a higher wattage generator but how do I determine the right size to cope with the 60 amp integral charger? I don`t want to buy a 2k generator and find that does not have the capacity either. Mass Combi works fine when on mains electric and all batteries are new. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Many Thanks. I must check water temp/level again I thought it was 80 degs but hard to see. Oil seems OK then and will clean/check driveplate. Hope its OK and does not an arm and a leg to fix it oil leak persists. Regards George Many Thanks. Will proceed as my previouis post re drive plate casing. Is it true that the water cooling system can hold up to 100 ltrs? That would make the most expensive antifreeze change I have ever had to do!! Regards, George

That is very helpful. Thank you. I suspected the oil in the drive housing would be some sort of seal leak. It sounds an expensive "fix". Engine not using/loosing oil at moment - dip stick level not dropping after 8 hour cruise and maintaining 32 psi pressure. So maybe it is a gradual build up of oil in drive housing. I will empty, clean and see if anymore oil accumulates. Water is operating at 80 degs. Regards, George

Fraid Not

Thanks for the welcome. "Sweet" indeed! Lets hope the RN is SOUND and sweet!

I am a new owner of a DM2, 1987 vintage I believe judging by reaearch on the serial number. I have a few simple questions that I would be most grateful if anyone could help with: Oil Pressure - what psi would you expect under normal cruising conditions and/or when warm on idle. What normal running temperature (water) would you expect. What type of antifreeze should I use "OAT" or non "OAT". The casing which joins the engine to the gearbox with a large access cutout in the side (bell housing?) - I have oil about 1/2 inch deep in the bottom. Is this normal or should it be completely dry? Any help greatly appreciated. George

Do you still have these parts? If so what price are you looking for?