Hartlebury lad

Crikey!

Some good posts in general on all this. Certainly, on boat design, my long standing boat engineer friend used to do RCR emergency callouts a long time ago. He stopped.. He said that all boatbuilders should do a few shifts on callouts before ever starting to build a boat.

Cheers, that confirms it. I only had a minor doubt at one point because its a decent enough belt and braces boat, but important aspects such as swim tanks being undersized, and no rear deck hatch to access the weed hatch and stern greaser were two idiosyncrasies that immediately needed attention - especially after breaking a rib early days lying across a hot engine to access the weed hatch!

I always assumed it was stainless steel, it looked like stainless steel inside and i only queried it because i saw some tiny rust like deposits inside. I also only queried the actual definition of an integral tank, excluding all other types of tank. There are one or two "unorthodox" discrepancies on the build of the boat - ask anyone who has owned one of these . Just because i want to be absolutely certain of an important aspect of my boat and boating experience ( or at least important to me ) should not justify your attempt to ridicule me.......

More weight to the argument then. Help me out, whats the definition of an integral tank, as opposed to an ss tank? Our tank i assumed was ss - i cant see it under the welldeck, the filler is next to the bow doors. When it was nearly empty i peered down the hole with a powerful torch, and spotted few very small rust spots surrounded by clean looking metal.

Responding again, i probably am over cautious. I am sure i heard recently that some water authorities were lowering the standards of water treatment as our drinking water was if anything over treated! Milton the tank then, flush out twice ( poor water pump!) and maybe a filter jug in the fridge for those balmy summer days! As an aside, i am sure i read on a Milton or similar product bottle" not to be used for metal containers"?

Agreed, David, But at home, its freshly drawn daily from the mains. On the boat, it is held in a holding tank, often for several weeks without replenishment, with a (albeit tiny) cocktail of microbes going back to 1996!

Hi, i have just found this thread, we have been boating (non cc) for 8 years now, on a 1996 Evans and Son boat. I think the tank is SS, and have always been reluctant to drink water directly from the tank - we take on board separate cold drinking water and top up a dispenser in the galley. I am at the point where in this day and age, its daft and impractical to be surrounded by loads of 5L containers of water. Its more of a bacteria thing for me. Maybe an inline filter below the kitchen sink? Or am i over cautious?

As an aside, the horn was one of a twin horn set off a Vauxhall Astra GT thingy - I installed them years ago and thought they would be the business, but when i pushed the switch, they barely flickered. I took one off and all was fine. Of course, i forgot to do it whilst the engine was running, which is when you need the horn anyway! No doubt, they would have worked fine under those circumstances.

Water pump is a common or garden Shurflo ( i know ....!) Bathroom pump out is a Whale Gulper The 8 cabin lights are all LED, as is the single bathroom Light. The toilet pump is a Thetford C200? and 3 rear lights are LED Horn is a standard 12v car horn (long cable run), as is the front spot. C Heating pump is a tiny Chinese Import jobbie, fed by the calorifier.

Its a 1996 boat self fitted out with several previous owners - no manual of course, and i am not convinced that the ones currently in the circuits are correct. Just because they haven't blown doesn't mean they are correct?

Greetings! I need some spare fuses - the mini glass type fuses for this panel. A couple have blown over the years. I suspect one or two were incorrectly rated. Can anyone advise the correct or likely ratings for the applications in the pic? Thanks in advance ....

Fair comment. I may take try to one off to have a look, but the odds are they were fitted correctly anyway. I may well contact the previous owner. I certainly don't allow the stove to overheat anymore. The marble never gets so hot that i cant put the flat of my hand on it for a couple of seconds.

Thanks again everyone. Those slabs have been on for about a minimum of 12 years, including when the stove was seriously overloaded and fired up in error ( inexperience back then!) However, i am not convinced replacing them is an easy option, especially to comply meticulously with the latest BSS standards, which may involve moving the stove and flue a few mm forward. I think given the possible hornets nest this could open, i may go with Sir Percys idea!

Hello all, Mrs HL is insisting on brightening up the corner holding the stove. Its got dark marble panels, and we are open to ideas. I dont know whats under the panels. They have been on at least 13 years, maybe more. Can i tile over them? Paint them? Or just rip them off and get lighter coloured marble or similar?

Thanks for all the comments and observations, particularly from Alan whose tips are welcome. I didnt know the configuration was a BSS issue? It was done under the previous owner and has passed two BSS exams under my ownership ....

The other two wires are from a small folding solar panel kept on the roof - are you suggesting they are incorrectly connected? I have been using it for about 5 years! Not brilliant, but every bit helps!

Thanks,Lots of old socks can be put into use! I presume the master switch on the panel should be off. Presumably, refit by finishing off with 5 (live), and lastly 4 (neg)then? Ha, thanks Tony, simultaneous post!

Afternoon all.... My ten (yes ten) year old batteries are long overdue to be replaced (4 x 110ah Platinums) - non liveaboard. My rigid daily routine of being power conservation obsessed is now a bit of a chore. They read 12.1/12.2 each morning, but deplete quickly down near that value after a full days cruising within an hour or two (fridge on, all led boat) I have been threatening to change them for a few years! Getting four to fit the battery bay is more important than changing the spec. What's the disconnection and reconnection routine for this set up. I have numbered the terminals on the pic. the main switch panel is on the left, out of shot.

Cheers. Lot of aggro though to do that though. Could be one of those jobs one may regret starting! May try Caldwell's as Pie Eater suggests.

Thanks Philjw - i tried Wesley a while ago - very helpful people, they stopped doing them about 5 years ago, as apparently they are no longer manufactured. In truth, i am probably hoping someone may have a few in a junk box!

Can anyone help me to source any sliding bolts like these? They are probably 25 years old - sliding catches for the top tilting window. All the adhesive eventually failed, and the previous owner replaced them with simple wooden triangular blocks!

Sadly it's too late. I am booked in soon . I have to say though, they strike me as totally genuine folk, and would happily rectify any issues.

I am considering having my boat 2 packed there. They seem really helpful there. The word is they have the mother of all pressure washers instead of a back to metal approach. If the pressure doesn't take off the bitumen remaining bitumen can take 2 pack? Bare metal and bitumen combination. Less mess and cost?

Alan.... 1. At least i said "deployed" 2. You will note, i did say "fit for purpose" 3. I suggested it is not an exact science- perfect anchor set ups don't exist- and sometimes "shit happens" oh, and 4. with nearly 30,000 posts on here, you will of course be aware the Anchor/Rope blah de blah debates have raged on and on here many times! Worth a separate thread if you want to rekindle....?