magnetman
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Posts posted by magnetman
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Sorry didn't read that thread
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I suspect huge numbers of boats are being let on airbnb without consideration for any of the issues you raise.
I agree with you that a boat fire or whatever could put an owner in deep -semi solid waste product- which is why I personally would not do it without addressing all of the issues you raise.
A lot people ain't bovvered, and get away with it I suspect.
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Check the price of them against carrier bags which tend to be stronger and have convenient handles
Yes I think carrier bags are OK and 5p is not too serious really. The shop which I do not enter (aka Lidl) has little bin liners which are apparently 3p each and the other half gets those so perhaps its all ok after all.
And yes we do same with paper and cardboard in the fire all year round.
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I've been thinking about this for a long time. I realise it is a very contencious (sp?) Topic but it needs to be addressed properly by the wide range of experiences found on this magnificent forum.
I use carrier bags normally for domestic waste but with the new tax it is becoming increasingly more awkward to acquire free ones. The beer shop does free carrier bags but they are small and low quality not really up to the job.
The woman has decided to -buy- small bin liners
We have a small bin.
Anyway please keep this on topic and try not to post any jokes or offensive stuff in case of trouble with the powers that be.
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I remember years ago I was drilling some 16mm holes in 10mm steel engine beds. I bought a standard blacksmiths drill and the bloke at the shop said "do it slowly". I am impatient and tried to do it too fast. Needless to say I overheated the edge of the drill and having no bench grinder at the time I was not able to make a new edge so I bought a second drill bit - same advice "go slowly" I still tried to do it too fast. By the third bit I realised that doing it slowly (very slowly!!) Was in fact very effective
same seems to happen with the jigsaw but I am still tempted to push it too fast !! -
I was thinking they may be confused about the fibre optic stuff as Oldgoat and Loddon have already mentioned but this was mid nineties I believe.
Sounds like bs to me.
The other suggestion I heard was to use Pitons. When coming through Regents park recently I noticed this could actually be done but I wonder if CRT would allow it?
Pitons are those little metal wedges used by climbers which they hammer into cracks in rocks. I think judicious use of these may be successful. It was Chris Pink who suggested this in a thread I started about using a nail gun
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alignment.
Maybe put a plummer block between engine and stern tube? My engine (90hp) has a centaflex coupling and a plummer block before the stern tube.
I'm not sure if its a good design or not really. I think the python thing might be better but I don't have the room for one anyway.
It was the system on the boat when I got it. I repowered it with a new engine and replaced stern gear but retained the original arrangement of centaflex anf plummbet block as it seems reasonable.
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I've no idea to be honest just a guess
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I did the other 3 last year. By mounting the porthole onto a wooden ring (cut fro a 48mm thick mahogany plank) the porthole frame is isolated from the boat steelwork and I experience minimal condensation so if anyone is fitting opening portholes I can definitely recommend this method !
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I fitted this yesterday. No 4 of 4 port side opening portholes below gunnel level (its a barge so they are about 18" above water level)
I cut the hole in the steel with a jigsaw. Mahogany ring cut with a holesaw. Porthole mounted to mahogany ring with neoprene seal between wood and steel now its almost finished just 3 more bolts to go on
Edited for autocorrect typos
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I usually use CT90 cutting compound with the jigsaw but when I did the porthole yesterday (7 inch hole in 6mm steel) I couldn't find the pot so I went slowly without lube and changed the blade over when it got hot. I used 5 blades but they are all still usable for other jobs as none of them got too hot. It was fine with no lube on it - I was a bit surprised in a way.
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No because you could cruise through and just not be allowed to moor up anyway.
Although it may sound unbelievable I think the Olympic site is still being dismantled
and there is a lot of residential construction going on. This may be why the waterways there have been closed for so long.
Possibly.
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I booked a place but we can't make it due to other things
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Edit to remove religious reference
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Didn't CRT recently say they had stopped offering short term licences to sinners, or did I imagine that?
I thought so too - maybe its just the 3 month thing they stopped
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Chain drilling might actually work for this job as I am installing a brass deck filler as a "skin fitting" which is going to be the (wet) exhaust outlet from a generator. This has a flange and 3 bolt holes to hold it in place so there is a little bit of leeway for the hole. Anyway I have ordered a Bosch holesaw so will use that.
Thanks for all the tips and suggestions
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I have a Bosch arbour for my 177mm holesaw - the type with the sliding collar and the pins. Hopefully this will fit the 46mm holesaw as well.
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Anyone fancy a pint?
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I'd say iroko or teak. Both these woods seem to he quite happy with no treatment altough it goes a bit grey - depends what your attitude to cosmetic appearance is.
I definitely would not use a worktop offcut if it is made of oak staves. It will almost certainly start to warp and separate if left out in the weather.
Mahogany is another OK wood to use - perhaps an old windowsill or something if its big enough ?
Another way would be to find an old garden bench (preferably battleship teak) and take the slats off to make the seats. That would give a nice appearance. I assume the seats are inside the semi trad stern enclosed area and not those ones people put beside the tiller on vertical posts. The latter are very dangerous but that's another topic !
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I think the moderators should lock this thread now
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Looks like a good beast !
I have a LOT of external paintwork needing doing but had thought about a big grit blast job. Do let us know how you get on with it as it looks interesting ! Plenty of ppe methinks
I wonder about the noise level as well and if it acceptable in a residential area
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I started off the first of 4 below-gunnel portholes with a 177mm (7 inch) holesaw on my makita 14.4 drill followed by jigsaw when the drill started to melt. Yes a holesaw can snatch a bit and gives the drill a hard time !!
A good idea to drill right through first before using the holesaw thanks for that tip.
So its definitely not a jigsaw job.
I will get a Bosch holesaw for it.
Thanks
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I have previously cut a lot of holes in steel usually using a jigsaw but I am just wondering if a hole this small (46mm) is manageable or will the blades tend to break as it is quite a small radius?
I favour the jigsaw as I have the blades but a decent holesaw will only be about £10 so if its a better option I will do that.
Today I cut a 175mm hole in 6mm steel with the jigsaw (for a porthole) so I am quite happy using that tool IF its appropriate.
Anyone tried smaller holes with the jigsaw?
Typos
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May be a flood risk if it blocks a weir.
It will be raised by an owner or lifted by the authority which will probably result in scrapping. The latter is ££££ for the owner if the authority are able to pursue them.
same seems to happen with the jigsaw but I am still tempted to push it too fast !!
Legal and financial implications of using an accomodation swap for boat use.
in General Boating
Posted
That's interesting - surely open to some abuse as well. I wonder what would actually happen if your 'friends' set fire to the boat ?
I suppose the insurance pays out. Do they do any checks to ensure it was actually your friend who was on the boat?