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jenevers

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Posts posted by jenevers

  1. 8 hours ago, MtB said:

     

    `So you don't think much of my suggestion to read the manual then?

     

    Manuals usually have a "Things to check when it doesn't work" section. 

    I haven’t got a manual.

    I’ve got new capacitors so……do they need to be “flashed” before installing?

  2. 2 minutes ago, jenevers said:

     

     

    5 hours ago, CompairHolman said:

    Without a multimeter and diagnosing your fault you're just peeing in the wind. 

     

    Could be anything from a bad connection to the socket, loose wiring, circuit breaker, capacitor, loss of residual magnetism. ( Bad capacitors will usually be " blown" ie bulging out of the outer case. )

    I’ll check the capacitors, the socket and wiring. Shouldn’t be loss of residual magnetism because it’s been in regular use.

  3. Well I’ve learned a lot today. I didn’t know the cable was so crucial. Can someone give me an idea of where I can get a high quality cable and adapters. I’ll get a Fringe LED signal finder meter as per advice from OldGoat. deleyCON seems to be a decent brand, (gold plated plugs etc)

    you never stop learning?

  4. 5 hours ago, Sea Dog said:

    But to answer the original question: yes, it could be the cable. The signals involved are tiny, so it's essential that the cable is the right quality satellite cable (not just any old coax) and joints are very well made and kept to a minimum. Ensure its kept dry and well sealed where exposed and don't exceed the recommended "bend radius" of the cable where you go round corners.

    Straightened the cable where it goes through a Mushroom, result ……picture on the TV! yippee! ?

    thanks to all for advice.

  5. On 02/07/2021 at 09:22, john6767 said:

    Try the sat finder on the cable at the TV end, that should let you see if it is a cable issue, and as said are you certain you at on the correct satellite.

    That’s a good idea?

    3 hours ago, Sea Dog said:

    But to answer the original question: yes, it could be the cable. The signals involved are tiny, so it's essential that the cable is the right quality satellite cable (not just any old coax) and joints are very well made and kept to a minimum. Ensure its kept dry and well sealed where exposed and don't exceed the recommended "bend radius" of the cable where you go round corners.

    Could be the recommended bend radius is the problem. I didn’t know there was one!

  6. 10 hours ago, dmr said:

    A bit of bulging is normal, as long as its not too bad.

    Top up the water, do a good charge then an equalisation for a few hours and see how things go. Trojans do recover quite well.

    Its also quite possible that only a single cell has failed but even if that is the case at 5 years it would probably make sense to replace the whole lot.

    We are full time off grid liveaboards and our Trojans are just over 5 years, still ok  but not sure we will get another winter out of them.

     

    ...........Dave

    They are only slightly bulged. They seem to be coming back to life, so should get me through this summer.

    10 hours ago, Tony Brooks said:

     

    I suspect you have run for longer at the Leece Neville regulated voltage that the other charging sources will allow.

    Well running the engine/alternator has certainly made a big difference?

  7. On 22/06/2021 at 09:25, Tony Brooks said:

     

    What are the times and values the controller is set to? If by some chance its for sealed batteries or AGMs the voltages are likely to be too low for open cell LAs and it may not do an equalisation.

    They're set for Flooded Lead Acid. Strangely enough the Trojans seem to be coming back to life after a few runs out in the boat, with the Leece Neville banging in over 100amps?

  8. 2 minutes ago, Tony Brooks said:

     

    The charger had probably dropped into float voltage because the batteries are so sulphated, the remaining capacity was charging up (voltage rising) so fast. This indicants that you have probably been rarely fully charging them and have no facility to do an equalisation charge. If your charge has an  equalisation setting use it and it may buy you some time.

     

    How do you decide when to stop  charging and what battery monitoring equipment do you have/use.

    They've been on constant solar power over winter via Episolar MPPT controller with no power being used.

  9. My 5 year old Trojans look like they're on their last legs. 11.9volts this morning!  I fired up the genny and the battery charger "Charge failure" light lit up and it took 4 minutes before it kicked in. It went into bulk charge (surprise, surprise!) at 80amps, but within 30 minutes, had dropped down to 12.7amps. But when I'm running the engine, the Leece Neville alternator is constantly banging in over 100amps. 

    I thought the batteries determined how much charge they want, so how come the battery charger is dropping down so quickly?

  10. 8 hours ago, Keith M said:

    When were the capacitors last checked?

    In the genny?   5 years ago.

    10 hours ago, Sir Nibble said:

    Unless you're a gadget freak both a kettle and toaster should be a dumb, unreactive purely resistive load. First component in a microwave is a powerful transformer with a heavy inrush current. I think this is a power problem rather than waveform. What WILL the Genny run?

    Halogen hob no problem.

    I have noticed that the genny seldom goes above 25% output. If I switch another appliance on, rather than go up to 50%, the other appliances “slow down”.

  11. 22 hours ago, Alan de Enfield said:

     

    You dont get diesel bug without water.

    The bug lives in the interface between the diesel and the water.

    Good point

    22 hours ago, Tracy D'arth said:

    If there is no water, there is no bug!

    ?

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