butty lark

Thanks. Very helpful.

Thanks. Good point on wasting battery power on inverter usage, it does seem overly heavy. I have work to do.

Good point on rising voltage. Not sure how Victron expect to cope with this as they claim without a hard wire for battery sensing though. Did the calcs some time ago. There is a lot of difference between a run of 1.5 and 5 m. At 2.5 m (round trip) my calcs showed a 0.1v drop at 90 amps and .05 amps at 40 amps. (The cable was 50mm. Not 35 as stated earlier.) It does go through a Mega fuse, and I guess I am losing volts across these connections especially if they get corroded. I will give it all a good clean. Not sure if the fuse is needed, most chargers are internally fused these days. Any comments?

Charging is quite modest 90 amps max into 420 amphrs batt. have a 2.5m run from batts to charger and cannot reduce. Used 35mm cable and reduced connections to min. Could take out fuses otherwise little flexibility. Need to compensate. Worked fine on the old sterling. But tricky with the 21st centruy black box approach taken by Victron. Have to get a PC.

Thanks. Seems remote switch and alarms only. Looks like the Battery voltage sensing hard wire has gone. Looks like I will have to acquire a PC.

Just bought a new version of this inverter charger. The previous version had a 6 slot terminal block inside with the first two dedicated to + then - voltage sensing wire. Although there is now an 8 slot terminal block in the same place the first two slots are the temp sensing leaving the 6 remaining. Nowhere can I see any reference to this slot in the new manual, I am losing 0.35v across the connections to the battery and had been told "do it in software", not very helpful as it needs a PC and I have only a Mac. Any advice?

I fitted 3 by 135amp Midland Chandler flooded cheapos in May. Set the Link 10 to 200 amp capacity and tried to never drop below 50% capacity as shown. (Actually 25% of theoretical value). Noticed the charger (5 year old Stirling 4 stage) although set to flooded was only indicating a best voltage as 14.45v. Reconnected the battery voltage sensing wire!!!! and charge voltage jumped up to 14.8v. Q1 Would the low voltage charge for the last 6 months cause any significant sulphation? Q2 Would voltage at 14.8 reverse the sulphation? Q3 Most relevant to this thread. Sterling do a Pro Pulse De-sulphation device. This feeds back high frequency pulses to the battery bank at very low current but 15.5v. Does it work, and as importantly will it interact ok with the Smartgauge? Any thoughts and or pointers on any of the above would be appreciated.

Interesting read. I have come to similar conclusion logging it against my Link10