arcsyst
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Posts posted by arcsyst
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30 minutes ago, ivan&alice said:
Despite having dabbled in physics in my wild youth I have next to no understanding of how antennae work.
I was having a little read of this article about the basics: https://grouptestwinner.com/external-4g-antenna-aerial/
It goes on to say you should buy a MIMO (multi input, multi output) antenna so that you can take advantage of this.
These units have two antennae within one casing, and have two cables coming out that go to your 4G router.
It struck me though that these antennae are basically co-located.
Wouldn't it be more effective then to have two antennae mounted on seperate masts at either end of my 65' bote?
This way I'll get a stronger signal when the signal is stronger fore, stronger signal when the signal is stronger aft, and strongest signal when there is good signal at both ends and they can work together?Cable losses would far outweigh any gain achieved by locating the antennas for and aft.
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46 minutes ago, dccruiser said:
am not in or near any of the above listed cities and have been getting 5g internet for over 12 months
Sure.
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On 10/05/2019 at 08:28, ivan&alice said:
I think probably your best bet for improving the signal is to get as tall a mast as possible. Unless there is some impact on attenuation of the signal over the longer length of cable?
As I said in my earlier post, provided you have an external antenna of some kind congestion is likely to be the limiting factor these days. The OPs advice was good at the time but cell coverage is much better now.
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16 hours ago, dccruiser said:
With my EE 60g for 28 quid a month sim I am now getting 5g almost everywhere , just done the 4 counties, llangollen, weaver and cauldon no issues streaming at lightening speeds
I doubt you get 5G 'almost everywhere'
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My experience fwiw using a draytek LTE 3/4G router on the three network.
I threw my TV aerial away and I stream TV on an unlimited data contact currently £21/m. I rarely have so little bandwidth that I can't stream HDTV. HOWEVER, bandwidth can be limited by congestion on the cell mast that you're connected to, confirmed by Draytek tech support. I can often get greater bandwidth by forcing the router to (the less congested) 3G network. Currently in the middle of Banbury with 'excellent' signal strength and less than 1Mbps bandwidth, my first failure in two months!
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All clear now
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The navigation is current closed due to a substancial fallen tree across the navigation under Milby bridge just north of Milby lock.
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The navigation is current closed due to a substancial fallen tree across the navigation under Milby bridge just north of Milby lock.
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On 13/03/2017 at 07:37, Tony Brooks said:
Our boat roof was originally painted with light grey Protectacote, eventually this started shedding pigment badly so I looked around for something to overpaint it. In the end I chatted to our local Crown paint store (not a DIY shed) and on their advice for a silk/eggshell type finish in oil based paint had them mix me some. The colour I chose turned out to be more cream than grey although it came from the grey colour swatch. So far three years on very happy with it and little pigment shedding. Scrubs up well and seems to resist duck crap damage.
Edited to add:- Both the Protectacote and Crown purchased stuff shed less pigment that the Craftmaster Raddle grey I tried on the roof.
I used protectacote cream, does stain a bit though.
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Not sure if this is similar to anything already suggested but I've just replaced all the windows on my nb and sealed them with butyl glazing tape, easy to use and looks very like what was originally used by the boat builder.
Re silicon, for reasons best known to them they also ran a bead of silicon around the window edge, this has subsequent caused rusting after 6 years under the silicon possibly due to trapped acetic acid during the cure.
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5 minutes ago, BEngo said:
If you can, take the top off and squirt some oil in. If you can't squirt some oil up the outlet. It will go then.
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Thanks for the quick response, I actually did that last time and it did help. However I feel I'm putting more and more effort in for less and less pumping!
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I realise this thread is a bit old but does anyone know if you can get replacement plunger seals for the seaflo pump? Mines reluctant to pump after 5 years ☹️
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There seems to be some conflicting information/confusion of terms.
Firstly a lead acid battery will self limit its charge to something close the amount of charge used, e.g. if you've used 80Ah then after a short while the charge current will be 80A or thereabouts.
Secondly the reason most batteries die is sulphation which is due to inadequate charging, so better to 'abuse' your batteries with high charge rate than leave them not fully charged.
Thirdly alternators weren't designed to charge massive banks of domestic batteries, they were designed for cars to replace the tiny amount of charge used to start an engine and then provide power to run everything electrical thereafter, without help it will struggle to fully charge a well used domestic bank in a reasonable time. That's where the A to B device helps by boosting the 13.8v (more likely 12.5 under load) to around 14.5 to charge the batteries in a shorter time.
When calculating max charge a rough rule of thumb is thus:
Alternator rated current x 0.8
If using an A to B giving a 20% voltage boost including losses. x 0.7
Unless you have seriously large cables joining all this up x 0.95 for cable losses
Putting all that together you have a max available current of about 55% of the rated alternator output, subtract your electrical load from this and there what's left to charge the batteries.
As regards diagnosing your particular problem I recommend investing in a cheap DC clamp ammeter for about £30 that you will use time and time again and is the best way to find this and similar faults.
Measuring Ah in and Ah out is a really good way of assessing battery state as a lead acid battery is close to 100% efficient if you measure this way unless overcharged, it is not 100% efficient if you measure Wh in/out.
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I am currently on the Lancaster heading for the Llangollen and would be happy to demo for you if you're in the area.
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A bit late to post but mine does exactly the same, can be sat lightly loaded so cool but when you turn off the last device the fans kick in for about 5 minutes. My unit is 5 years old and identical to the OP's
Edit: mine doesn't beep though.
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Hi,
Thanks for your interest.
Early versions of BoatMON did indeed have SMS but in reality most people have email enabled smart devices so it was deemed irrelevant as email is a far more flexible medium not restricted to mobile phones. GPS is a work in progress at the moment and i am hoping to release something later in the year.
The software has evolved over the last two years largely based on feedback from users' wish lists and my own experiences, if there is some killer feature you want suggest it, if it has merit then it will be included in future updates that you can download.
Brian.
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Having now spent a little time on this, there appears to be no definitive BBCode reference online. Some guides don't list
[sub]Text here[/sub] [sup]Text here[/sup]
and some do. Whether there's variations or extensions of BBCode, I don't know. However our forum supports the subscript and superscript tags. I know they work if manually typed into an Android device showing the mobile version of the website, don't know about Apple devices (no way of testing). They are a pain to type in, on a screen touch keyboard. For this reason I'd always recommend posts of more than simple text, are made using a normal computer. Note, the frame around the reply box which allows easy selection of the various controls, doesn't show up on an Android phone (default browser full version skin). I believe its either a Javascript or Flash-related issue. We're not moving away from this version of forum software in the forseeable future, so that's the way it is.Thanks Paul, the only mark-up language I've used before is ironically called Markdown. Does your version of BBCode support most HTML tags translated to square brackets then?
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I find that a great comment to go with your signature "The ITboat.co.uk"
Glad to amuse. Markup languages are not universal and I don't know which markup language is used here.
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You can use the codes [ sub ] and [ sup ], like you would do to quote stuff.
Thank you all, my marshmallow tablet doesn't seem to display the font dialogue, is there a howto anywhere for the mark-up language?
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I agree that some small power consumption is a consequence of a transformer, but have no direct measurements to quantify this. However, having installed ours we noticed no significant increased electricity costs (but obviously there was some). This was when we kept the boat in a marina and I was very conscious of buying £10 electricity cards. I am pretty sure that I would have noticed a £100 per annum increase.
I would try and measure the no load loss but do not have suitable equipment to hand.
Transformer losses are basically two fold, hysteresis losses which constant and I2R* losses which are load dependant. I am trying to get a definitive answer for the transformer that I cited but 0.5% hysteresis losses is a reasonable 'guess' for the no-load loss, Obviously the other losses square with load rising to about 3% at full load (so 0.75% at 50% load [1.75KVA]). Based on the 0.5% and 15p/KWh that equates to an annual cost of £23/annum for the no load losses and somewhat less for the I2R losses as you probably only average a few hundred watts of load, so maybe £30-35 all in.
* I2R = I squared R (as the forum doesn't seem to support superscripted characters)
Update: Manufacturers state no load hysteresis loss as 0.6% on the transformer I cited.
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maybe around £100/yr for a 3kVA one
I'd like to see the evidence for that statement. That equates to 75VA which would produce significant heating.
Maybe because a decent GI with LED status monitor will do a perfectly good job in 99.9% of cases, and the LEDs will detect the other 0.1%
And 98.5% of statistics are made up.
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In salt water I will agree with you but in fresh water would it trip or would the boat go live waiting for the first person to touch the boat to become the return path.
Either way it will trip.
In theory yes as the PE with an iso transformer is different either side of the transformer with a GI it is the same.
Yes with a GI one would expect an instantaneous trip.
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Yes it does matter. Consider the possibilities of a damaged feed cable to the boat mounted transformer trailing across the boat.
Now think about the same scenario with the transformer on the bank.
One could be dangerous guess which one?
I would expect that electricity supplies outdoor in the presence of water would have an RCCD. Which would protect your scenario.
I was hoping for an intelligent debate but it seems unlikely here. Never mind.
I didn't intend to be facetious, i was implying that you connect your IT the same as you would anything else.
Whatever scenario you choose there are drawbacks, the intention is to minimise risk and maximise benefit. I appreciate no one solution is a universal panacea you choose your own solution based on an informed decision.
Oil for PRM120
in Boat Equipment
Posted
I had problems with clutch slip with ATF and experimented with various oils finally settling on Comma gear oil EP80W-90 GL-4 which gave the best performance and lowest noise (straight engine oil worked but made the gearbox noisy). Two years and 1000 hours later it's still fine.