Kathymel
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Posts posted by Kathymel
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Thanks for that. I was kind of thinking that might be the best for now until I can get to a Ford garage, but it’s good to hear someone else say it.
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8 minutes ago, GUMPY said:
Sadly, no. There’s only one seller on eBay that does click and collect and they only have 1l of ready mixed left and I need more.
I have now found Prestone on Amazon though so maybe I’ll ignore the purist on the motor forum and get that. They do guarantee compatibility (though I’m going to end up with mud-coloured coolant).
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16 minutes ago, alias said:
I haven't used this stuff personally, but Prestone makes claims of universal compatibility:
https://www.prestoneuk.com/blog/dos-and-donts-of-mixing-coolant/
Thanks, I’ll have a read.
I suggested a similar universal one (Holts G12+/G13 and several other letters) on the motor forum and there was a bit of a sucking in of air through teeth. I don’t know why the manufacturer would make the claim if it wasn’t true but someone who knows more than me (antifreeze is too flipping varied these days!) said they wouldn’t be happy with something that claimed to be such an all-rounder 🤔
Maybe it’s ok if you’re not a purist? I don’t know enough.
18 minutes ago, Rod Stewart said:If you are anywhere near stratford upon avon, Arden garages may have some in stock, or could get some in.
Thanks. I’ll look them up and give them a ring tomorrow.
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Hello.
I had a small leak in my coolant system. I’ve used the spare antifreeze I had left over which brought it up to the bottom of the header tank, but I’m really struggling to get hold of some more.
I need to use eBay click and collect or Amazon lockers but Ford won’t deliver that way and I can’t find anyone else who does.
Can anyone suggest something that may mix with the Ford? I’ve tried a motor forum but mostly got US suggestions which didn’t lead to a solution.
I’m on the south Stratford and don’t have a car.
Thanks in advance. -
I came here on the off chance that someone might have some information about hose IDs on this engine after one of mine sprung a leak and I just want to say, I bloody love you!
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On 15/10/2023 at 03:09, blackrose said:
That's what I did on my Isuzu 55.
A plug on the back of the panel behind the button had worked itself loose and I was a bit shocked when I couldn't stop the engine. The problem was easy enough to fix by simply getting behind the panel and pushing that loose connection together, but I realised you need an alternative mechanical means of shutting the engine down, so I fitted an engine stop cable.
Imagine an emergency situation where you couldn't stop the engine. Shouldn't a mechanical stop be mandatory?
I just drilled a hole in a convenient place to fit the engine stop cable. You just need to work out roughly what length cable you need with some string and fit it with cable ties in a couple of places.
Yes I often feel like taking a hammer to things when they go wrong - I'm sure many of us get similarly frustrated - but it's really best to restrain oneself and fix it properly! 😋
Of course, but if it keeps it going for long enough to do a proper fix
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6 hours ago, Mike Adams said:
That is definitely not going to help. As previously said there is a multi-pin connector on the engine loom that is prone to poor connection. It is quite easy to fit a mechanical stop as there is a lever next to where the throttle control goes on to the engine. You can find a stop cable on ebay or even a bit of string depending on the arrangement
The OP managed to get his going again with WD40 and a few taps of a hammer.
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7 minutes ago, ditchcrawler said:
Check that you are actually getting full voltage on the solenoid terminals as soon as you press the stop button, it could be a bad connection somewhere.
Thanks. I did a visual inspection and there’s no obvious bad connections or corrosion, but it was getting dark and the pub is calling, so I’ll get on that first thing in the morning.
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My turn to have this issue now.
4LB1 33hp.
Solenoid part no. MV1-77 897209-1140
My stop button is taking longer and longer to stop the engine. Having read this thread, I guess the first thing to do is take some WD40 and a hammer to it.
If it fails completely, are there any updates to the comments already made? Engines Plus don’t have the part listed so I’ve emailed them and am waiting for a reply. There are some listings on eBay that say they will replace a solenoid in a 4LB1, but the part no. they list as replacing is not the same as mine, so I doubt they will work.
I’d be grateful for any suggestions including how you go about installing a manual engine stop.
Thanks, Kathy
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19 minutes ago, Slim said:
Sorry but you're complicating matters. Take 2x 17mm ring combination spanners, tighten until you feel that they are tight, job done.
I was trying to comply with the instructions. If the instructions are over complicated, that’s hardly my fault.
21 minutes ago, Tracy D'arth said:Tighten by hand with 2 normal size spanners as tight as you can, always seems to work. Self locking nuts will be a good idea, or Loctite on the threads.
Thanks very much Tracey. Much appreciated.
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Good evening,
I’ve just received a replacement R&D coupling along with instructions. Seems very straightforward except there’s no way of getting a socket on to the bolt heads to get the torque right. I can’t find a torque wrench that takes open ended spanner heads that doesn’t require me to mortgage the boat.
So my question is, how important are the torque settings and is there a guesstimate I can use?
Cheers, Kathy
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10 hours ago, Alan de Enfield said:
As I said earlier - if SEALED batteries are being used (why would you - you cannot maintain them) then if they are going into a non-ventilated area (under the bed, steps etc) then unless you drill sufficient holes for ventilation ( 3x 25mm holes per battery) then you will need a certificate from the battery manufacturer saying they 'OK' their use in non-ventilated areas.
Thanks for the link, Alan.
The figures you’ve quoted from appendix G are for unsealed batteries. If I decide on an interior siting for my ‘sealed’ batteries, I won’t be keeping them in an unventilated space, as I mentioned earlier, they will be ventilated to the exterior.
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9 hours ago, Jen-in-Wellies said:
I agree. My batteries were originally under the swim and the only way of checking electrolyte levels was to lie across the engine with a torch and mirror trying to peer in to each top up hole in turn. Horrible job.
Something that has not been mentioned yet is that moving the batteries from one side of the boat to the other will drastically change the trim. I did this on my boat deliberately. It used to be down on the port side, up on the starboard. Moving four house batteries at 25kg each from one swim to the other in the engine hole made the trim pretty much level port to starboard. If your boat is level now, it very much won't be after the move. The water level moved a couple of inches down and up on each side on my boat. Another good effect on my boat was that it was much easier to check and top up the batteries in their new position.
Jen
Thanks Jen,
I have a fair bit of moveable ballast in the form of steel bars and a great deal of wood on the roof that I’m used to moving to adjust my trim.
Kathy
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20 minutes ago, cuthound said:
Anything above 20°C shortens their life, especially the sealed types, where every 5°C above 20°C halves their life.
Noted, thanks.
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1 hour ago, Slim said:
And, as it happens, new Volvo V90s. Main battery in the back, small battery in the front for stop/start. Dedicated terminal in engine compartment for jump starting etc
Back to the OPs question. I have my batteries in a similar position to yours but offset to one side. Passed all BSS's since 1996 without question or mention. I did make sure the silencer was well lagged. On your proposal could you not move the battery immediatly under the silencer further forward. I know this would introduce the issue of connecting cable lengths but that's manageable.
Thanks for this, Slim.
I would definitely need to split the bank as there isn’t sufficient height directly below the exhaust. I did think putting one forward of the exhaust would work, if I choose to go that route.
I also wondered about increasing the lagging on the exhaust or installing a heat shield.
Is there any any chance of a couple of photos of your set-up or perhaps some measurements to give me an idea of the clearances you have?
Thanks again.
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1 hour ago, Alan de Enfield said:
Appendix G states that you will need 3x 25mm diameter holes for each 100Ah battery
Thanks. I have ‘sealed’ batteries. Are there ventilation specifications for them? Could you provide me with a link to the appendices, please? I can’t see them where I’m looking.
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6 hours ago, blackrose said:
The whole idea of re-siting the batteries from their current position seems rather unnecessary to me if the main objective was simply to repaint the uxter plate/counter. Why not just reposition them temporally until the job is done? I did see your post about trying to reduce cable lengths but wasn't sure if moving to the exhaust side achieved this.
The main objective has evolved as it’s gone along. The original need was to rationalise and shorten the cable paths. The current set-up is messy and illogical and the cables from the two separate systems are constantly crossing one another.
The battery box is also in need of enlarging/replacement and the area around it needs a lot of work.
Moving the leisure system to the other side puts it immediately below the fuse panel and neatens up a lot of wandering wires. The main battery fuse and isolator are currently situated at the rear of the bank, so moving them forward, even when on the other side will mean the cable run to the inverter is the same distance.
All this remains true if I go with the under steps option.
So, there is a lot more going on than just painting. ?
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Thanks everyone.
My next question was was about ventilation and you’ve clarified it nicely. The old toilet tank air vent hose is still lurking under the bed. I can repurpose that.
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Well ok, maybe not a huge difference to where I was thinking of putting them, but the way the wiring is now, putting them inside would get rid of about 3 meters. Some of that wiring is way too thin and needs replacing, so every little helps.
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1 minute ago, bizzard said:
I wouldn't have the batteries in the engine compartment at all, a horrid place especially on the swim tops, very awkward. I'd put them indoors, under the back step or something and away from all that engine and sun heat, this makes them easy to check and service and leaves more room around the engine to work on it. Mine are under my bed which is a cross bed which folds up in half and there are my batteries all lovely to get at.
Thanks Bizzard. That’s not a bad idea at all. It never occurred to me to bring them indoors. One of the reasons I’m changing the layout is the unnecessary length of cables in the current set-up. Putting them under the step would make a huge difference to that.
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7 minutes ago, Alan de Enfield said:
Unfortunately whilst there are published requirements to achieve the BSS the implementation and interpretation of those 'guide lines' is very inconsistent, and each examiner will have different ideas on what the rules require and how he applies them.
Decide on your examiner and then ask him.
If you ask one examiner and do as he suggests then actually employ another examiner, it is a fair-bet that what you have done will not be accepted.
Thanks Alan,
When I get a response, I’ll ask them. It’s interesting that there is no hard and fast rule though. I might have to do some temperature tests.
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1 minute ago, WotEver said:
So no, there’s no specific rule, just common sense and your inspector’s opinion of such.
Thanks Wotever,
Common sense it is for now, then. ??
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I’m not asking people to guess what my BSS inspector’s opinion is going to be - until I get a reply to my email, it’s not even a given who that will be - I’m asking if anyone on here has an opinion.
It’s fine if you don’t have one but, if you don’t mind, I’ll wait to see if other people have anything to say on the matter.
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Because he’s not due for a month and I thought someone on here might know.
Ford Premium 10 year coolant equivalent?
in Boat Equipment
Posted
Sorry for the delay in replying. I’ve still got issues so I came back to read through the thread again. I’m a bit discouraged to learn that you top up the corrosion inhibitor every two years. The whole point of my using the 10 year Ford was so I wouldn’t have to worry about degrading corrosion inhibitor. Is the Ford claim that the corrosion inhibiting aspect of the coolant lasts up to 10 years not realistic?