[Isuzu engine stop solenoid]

On 15/10/2023 at 03:09, blackrose said:

 

That's what I did on my Isuzu 55.

 

A plug on the back of the panel behind the button had worked itself loose and I was a bit shocked when I couldn't stop the engine. The problem was easy enough to fix by simply getting behind the panel and pushing that loose connection together, but I realised you need an alternative mechanical means of shutting the engine down, so I fitted an engine stop cable.

 

Imagine an emergency situation where you couldn't stop the engine. Shouldn't a mechanical stop be mandatory?

 

I just drilled a hole in a convenient place to fit the engine stop cable. You just need to work out roughly what length cable you need with some string and fit it with cable ties in a couple of places.

 

 

 

Yes I often feel like taking a hammer to things when they go wrong - I'm sure many of us get similarly frustrated - but it's really best to restrain oneself and fix it properly! 😋

Of course, but if it keeps it going for long enough to do a proper fix

[Isuzu engine stop solenoid]

6 hours ago, Mike Adams said:

That is definitely not going to help. As previously said there is a multi-pin connector on the engine loom that is prone to poor connection. It is quite easy to fit a mechanical stop as there is a lever next to where the throttle control goes on to the engine. You can find a stop cable on ebay or even a bit of string depending on the arrangement

The OP managed to get his going again with WD40 and a few taps of a hammer. 

[Isuzu engine stop solenoid]

7 minutes ago, ditchcrawler said:

Check that you are actually getting full voltage on the solenoid terminals as soon as you press the stop button, it could be a bad connection somewhere.

Thanks. I did a visual inspection and there’s no obvious bad connections or corrosion, but it was getting dark and the pub is calling, so I’ll get on that first thing in the morning. 

[Isuzu engine stop solenoid]

My turn to have this issue now.

 

4LB1 33hp.

Solenoid part no. MV1-77 897209-1140

 

My stop button is taking longer and longer to stop the engine. Having read this thread, I guess the first thing to do is take some WD40 and a hammer to it. 
 

If it fails completely, are there any updates to the comments already made? Engines Plus don’t have the part listed so I’ve emailed them and am waiting for a reply. There are some listings on eBay that say they will replace a solenoid in a 4LB1, but the part no. they list as replacing is not the same as mine, so I doubt they will work.

 

I’d be grateful for any suggestions including how you go about installing a manual engine stop. 
 

Thanks, Kathy

[Torque settings for R&D coupling]

19 minutes ago, Slim said:

Sorry but you're complicating matters. Take 2x 17mm ring combination spanners, tighten until you feel that they are tight, job done.

I was trying to comply with the instructions. If the instructions are over complicated, that’s hardly my fault. 

21 minutes ago, Tracy D'arth said:

Tighten by hand with 2 normal size spanners as tight as you can, always seems to work. Self locking nuts will be a good idea, or Loctite on the threads.

Thanks very much Tracey. Much appreciated. 

[Torque settings for R&D coupling]

Good evening,

 

I’ve just received a replacement R&D coupling along with instructions. Seems very straightforward except there’s no way of getting a socket on to the bolt heads to get the torque right. I can’t find a torque wrench that takes open ended spanner heads that doesn’t require me to mortgage the boat. 
 

So my question is, how important are the torque settings and is there a guesstimate I can use?

 

Cheers, Kathy

[Siting batteries - cruiser stern]

10 hours ago, Alan de Enfield said:

As I said earlier - if SEALED batteries are being used (why would you - you cannot maintain them) then if they are going into a non-ventilated area (under the bed, steps etc) then unless you drill sufficient holes for ventilation ( 3x 25mm holes per battery) then you will need a certificate from the battery manufacturer saying they 'OK' their use in non-ventilated areas.

Thanks for the link, Alan. 

 

The figures you’ve quoted from appendix G are for unsealed batteries. If I decide on an interior siting for my ‘sealed’ batteries, I won’t be keeping them in an unventilated space, as I mentioned earlier, they will be ventilated to the exterior. 

[Siting batteries - cruiser stern]

9 hours ago, Jen-in-Wellies said:

I agree. My batteries were originally under the swim and the only way of checking electrolyte levels was to lie across the engine with a torch and mirror trying to peer in to each top up hole in turn. Horrible job.

Something that has not been mentioned yet is that moving the batteries from one side of the boat to the other will drastically change the trim. I did this on my boat deliberately. It used to be down on the port side, up on the starboard. Moving four house batteries at 25kg each from one swim to the other in the engine hole made the trim pretty much level port to starboard. If your boat is level now, it very much won't be after the move. The water level moved a couple of inches down and up on each side on my boat. Another good effect on my boat was that it was much easier to check and top up the batteries in their new position.

Jen

Thanks Jen,

 

I have a fair bit of moveable ballast  in the form of steel bars and a great deal of wood on the roof that I’m used to moving to adjust my trim. 

 

Kathy

[Siting batteries - cruiser stern]

20 minutes ago, cuthound said:

Anything above 20°C shortens their life, especially the sealed types, where every 5°C above 20°C halves their life.

Noted, thanks. 

[Siting batteries - cruiser stern]

1 hour ago, Slim said:

And, as it happens, new Volvo V90s. Main battery in the back, small battery in the front for stop/start. Dedicated terminal in engine compartment for jump starting etc

Back to the OPs question. I have my batteries in a similar position to yours but offset to one side. Passed all BSS's since 1996 without question or mention. I did make sure the silencer was well lagged. On your proposal could you not move the battery immediatly under the silencer further forward. I know this would introduce the issue of connecting cable lengths but that's manageable.

Thanks for this, Slim. 

 

I would definitely need to split the bank as there isn’t sufficient height directly below the exhaust. I did think putting one forward of the exhaust would work, if I choose to go that route. 

 

I also wondered about increasing the lagging on the exhaust or installing a heat shield. 

 

Is there any any chance of a couple of photos of your set-up or perhaps some measurements to give me an idea of the clearances you have?

 

Thanks again. 

[Siting batteries - cruiser stern]

 

1 hour ago, Alan de Enfield said:

Appendix G states that you will need 3x 25mm diameter holes for each 100Ah battery 

 

Thanks. I have ‘sealed’ batteries. Are there ventilation specifications for them? Could you provide me with a link to the appendices, please? I can’t see them where I’m looking. 

[Siting batteries - cruiser stern]

6 hours ago, blackrose said:

The whole idea of re-siting the batteries from their current position seems rather unnecessary to me if the main objective was simply to repaint the uxter plate/counter. Why not just reposition them temporally until the job is done? I did see your post about trying to reduce cable lengths but wasn't sure if moving to the exhaust side achieved this.

The main objective has evolved as it’s gone along. The original need was to rationalise and shorten the cable paths. The current set-up is messy and illogical and the cables from the two separate systems are constantly crossing one another. 

 

The battery box is also in need of enlarging/replacement and the area around it needs a lot of work.

 

Moving the leisure system to the other side puts it immediately below the fuse panel and neatens up a lot of wandering wires. The main battery fuse and isolator are currently situated at the rear of the bank, so moving them forward, even when on the other side will mean the cable run to the inverter is the same distance. 

 

All this remains true if I go with the under steps option. 

 

So, there is a lot more going on than just painting. ?

[Siting batteries - cruiser stern]

Thanks everyone. 

 

My next question was was about ventilation and you’ve clarified it nicely. The old toilet tank air vent hose is still lurking under the bed. I can repurpose that. 

[Siting batteries - cruiser stern]

Well ok, maybe not a huge difference to where I was thinking of putting them, but the way the wiring is now, putting them inside would get rid of about 3 meters. Some of that wiring is way too thin and needs replacing, so every little helps. 

[Siting batteries - cruiser stern]

1 minute ago, bizzard said:

I wouldn't have the batteries in the engine compartment at all, a horrid place especially on the swim tops, very awkward. I'd put them indoors, under the back step or something and away from all that engine and sun heat, this makes them easy to check and service and leaves more room around the engine to work on it. Mine are under my bed which is a cross bed which folds up in half and there are my batteries all lovely to get at.

Thanks Bizzard. That’s not a bad idea at all. It never occurred to me to bring them indoors. One of the reasons I’m changing the layout is the unnecessary length of cables in the current set-up. Putting them under the step would make a huge difference to that. 

[Siting batteries - cruiser stern]

7 minutes ago, Alan de Enfield said:

Unfortunately whilst there are published requirements to achieve the BSS the implementation and interpretation of those 'guide lines' is very inconsistent, and each examiner will have different ideas on what the rules require and how he applies them.

 

Decide on your examiner and then ask him.

If you ask one examiner and do as he suggests then actually employ another examiner, it is a fair-bet that what you have done will not be accepted.

Thanks Alan,

 

When I get a response, I’ll ask them. It’s interesting that there is no hard and fast rule though. I might have to do some temperature tests. 

[Siting batteries - cruiser stern]

1 minute ago, WotEver said:

So no, there’s no specific rule, just common sense and your inspector’s opinion of such.

Thanks Wotever,

 

Common sense it is for now, then. ??

[Siting batteries - cruiser stern]

I’m not asking people to guess what my BSS inspector’s opinion is going to be - until I get a reply to my email, it’s not even a given who that will be - I’m asking if anyone on here has an opinion. 

 

It’s fine if you don’t have one but, if you don’t mind, I’ll wait to see if other people have anything to say on the matter. 

[Siting batteries - cruiser stern]

Because he’s not due for a month and I thought someone on here might know. 

[Siting batteries - cruiser stern]

Good evening, 

 

I’ve started refurbishing my engine hole and part of this will involve moving my batteries from one side to the other so I can scrape and paint the side they’re currently on.

 

Their temporary (potentially permanent) home is going to be on the same side as the exhaust. Is there any legislation or are there any safety guides concerning how close batteries can be to an exhaust? 

 

The tray you can see in the photo is the footprint of all four batteries. They won’t all fit together astern of the exhaust unless I move the fuel line (which goes to the Eberspacher and moving it is on the list, but I hadn’t planned to do it just yet). I plan to split the batteries into two separate trays either side of the exhaust, but I need to know about any safety guidelines before I can do that. 

 

My BSS exam is next month, so no cutting corners for me. 

[Coupling]

Thanks Sam,

 

Having spent the morning trying to work out from pictures on eBay (and gasping at the prices), that’s a much more sensible solution. 

 

Kathy

[Coupling]

Morning all,

 

Can someone advise on where to buy one of these couplings, please?

 

Thanks,

Kathy

[Roving Traders insurance]

Thanks Dave,

 

Good to know and cheaper than I was expecting. I haven't been a sole trader for a long time, but I'm sure I paid similar 15 years ago.

 

Kathy

Just now, TheBiscuits said:

Craftinsure will provide a trading endorsement if you ring them.  I think ours was about £50 added to our existing policy.

Thanks Biscuits. Good to know there's plenty of choice.

[Roving Traders insurance]

1 minute ago, Goliath said:

I expect Towergate will sort you out. Just give them a ring and they’ll add the extra Public Liability to your current insurance. 

I insure through Collidge and Partners and that’s what I did. Very simple. 

 

Good luck with the trading. 

Thanks, Goliath.

 

That sounds delightfully simple.

[Roving Traders insurance]

Hello folks,

 

I've just submitted an application for a trader's licence and received this in reply:

 

'... the proposal is acceptable in principle based on the information provided in the Operating Proposal and that you may complete and pay for your Business Licence online subject to the following supporting information being provided:

 

• Commercial Insurance Policy with Public Liability
• Third Party Insurance for Boat (combined policy acceptable)'

 

Can any traders recommend companies to go to for these? 

 

Also, I have third party insurance with my normal policy (with Towergate), but is this something different specific to trading? 

 

Thanks, Kathy