claudia

Yes I can see where you are coming from as to where am I going with this, it started for me with aquiring this boat, getting the engine going putting it in gear, pushing off, bit of throttle and bashing into the bank as the thing went backwards. Put it into reverse and forward we went all be it very slowly. Conclusion must have the wrong prop, I was told it was a lm100 gearbox so I contacted Crowthers, gave them all the details I thought to be correct and they came back with a prop I needed born out by Chris on here. The prop is now being made and as things have come to light I appear to be getting deeper and deeper in the mier. Apart from the thing going backwards instead of forward and it will only do half a mile an hour the engine and box work fine. I was told running in reverse for a long period would boil the oil hence the reason for changing the oil and the start of the thread, but life does not appear that simple. I know I need a new prop but I am not sure I will have the right one hence the tangent to the thread , must seem crazy to get a box and engine to match my prop but I am very wet behind the ears as you will have guessed. This forum is very good and is helping me greatly please don't give up on me just yet cheers, Ian.

What is the difference between a marinised Lister and the industrial Lister. Would I be wise to change the box for say a LH150 or should I be looking to change the whole lot. This is all very new to me as I should think you have gathered.

Will this affect my prop sizing if its 1-1 I have been working on 2-1?

Will this be a reduction gearbox. Does anyone know anything about them or could point me in the direction of the light cheers, Ian.

Thanks for that, it certainly doesn't go like a Ducatti must have come from the one Vallantino Rossi is riding. What a strange box to fit in a narrow boat or am I yust showing my ignorance.

Is there nobody that can shed any light on this one?

Is that one of those round tuit things? I have a boxfull!

Have done that Chris nothing other than the slotted bolts I mention. Thought that nut on the top might be but didn't want to undue it and hear something drop in so hoped someone could put me straight. Do thank you all for your help and advice cheers, Ian.

Pictures sent thanks.

Would somebody be willing to let me e-mail my pictures of my gearbox to them from my phone as I not only have no idea how to put pictures on to the forum but I can't get them off my phone onto the computer. If not I will ask my lad to do it when he gets back in tonight cheers, Ian.

Working on the picture, its a long thin ally box bolted to the fan housing the selector shaft can be right or left connected.

I was told it was a LM100 but it can't be there is no dipstick anywhere on it trust me I have fully checked it over. There is nothing on it to say what it is or any numbers I can referance all it has is a arrow with an F for forward I presume and a R for reverse.

I will take a picture of it and try and get some one to put in on here for me as I have no idea. Its not like that one it seems to sit the other way on and yes its on a SR2

Hi I believe I have a 100 manual gearbox with a big lever sticking up through the floor, my problem is is that there does not appear to be a dipstick anywhere on it. there is a top plate with 8 bolts holding it down and a red plastic screw in cap in the centre of that. On each side there appears to be a screw driver slotted nut in a well but nothing else, does anyone know what I am describing and if so how to do an oil change on said beast cheers, Ian.

Thanks for the replies, it sounds like it would be easier to strip the thing down and look at the rings and test for slap.

Do you remove the injector and go through there?. Does anyone know what reading I should get if all is well with the rings please.

Could somebody please tell me how to check the compression of each cylinder in my SR2 and will this give me an indication if I have a piston ring problem cheers, Ian.

Are we saying here that the fire is a 4inch flue but you have fitted a five inch flue instead, if this is so then you will need a 4 to 5 adappter and you will loose alot of heat. The flue is deisgned for the fire to remove the products of combustion but not pull to hard that you loose all the heat. As its going in a house the flue will be alot longer and will give a far greater pull than they expected when installed on a boat.

I assume there is a coller on top of the fire that the flue sits in if thats correct the fire cement makes up the small gap between the two and when its gone off it should hold it solid. As for the smell if its new it is just burning off the oils and greasy paw marks, have a good blizzy with all the doors and windows open it will soon clear.

I was thinking would it be a good idea to run a sheet or tarp under the boat tied like a knotted hankerchief to catch anything that fell. I take the point that if its on tight there is no way I will shift it through the hatch, but I bet if I set off to the dry dock with the nut off it would fly off never to be seen again.

taking the comments about the woodruf key being at the top how do you know when it is at the top looking down through the hatch?

Thats a good point Blackrose!

Thank you all very much for your quick response. I am going to have a go how it goes is as you say in the lap of the gods. But at least I have a few good pointers cheers.

Could somebody please tell me if its possible to change a prop on a narrow boat while it is still in the water or is this a daft question cheers.