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Posts posted by bizzard
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Just hold on a minute everyone - how often do we come across a boat that needs a tow? Not that often? So when we do, let's be a little sympathetic, because it could be us, any time, anywhere and let us lend a hand, without thinking about how we could mke a fast buck out of it.
I suggest that you renew your spectacles if you use them and re-read the the posts.
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Ahh...foaming & frothing at the mouth
Is another sign orange skin & hair falling out?
I had been pleased, as the "dust" bag had only needed emptying once per shower, recently
Oh no, forget the orange skin, that's only since I welded me stainless tank with mild steel rods...
Mmmm. That could be quite novel actually.Orange rain squirtin from the shower head,wouldn't have to wait for orange Sahara rain,if you wished to attend a fancy dress party dressed up as a Jaffa orange.
'
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I like the 3m scouring pad drain filter idea, very neat, musta' missed that. Do you think Scotchbrite pads would work just as well? Any left over could be stuck to the belt sander.....should be good for sensitive skin types.
Is the Scotch bright like the old metal round ones,if so there might be a serious risk of Tetanus,the precursor for Rabies i think,so if it goes rusty the user might be in trouble if they've got a cut or a burst boil or pimple on their back.Foaming and frothing at the mouth i believe indicate the onset of this disease
I'll have to check it out with the professor.
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I should be careful what you say on this forum about the security on your boat, As we
have a number of night work only locksmiths as members.
Firesprite
In the Office
Your guard cats quite freindly really.
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Ta, I shall lift the 'lid' of the box later. how tight should that brake be adjusted, and how best to measure it? Have a Lister manual, but sadly no Parsons one.
I'm not conversant with Parson's boxes either but i'm almost sure the forward clutch needs its free-play restoring,its trying to disengage. Like riding the clutch in a car causing the clutch to slip. Do it right away or clutches will burn out,or reverse where your going.
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I would contact all the local hauliers near the boat that have flatbed artics
They sometimes have to run rigs around empty,they hate having to do this 'fuel wastage'and so are often glad to do this just to raise the drivers wage plus fuel,if there going that way anyway of course.
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Not keen on em.I put them in the same category as Wind chimes,irritating,Though i do use a light tied to my tiller as a stern light at night. bizzard
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Agree 100%
Have always used Starrett holesaws for work and play (chepish on fleabay these days). Plenty of lube,slow drill machine. Even milk is better lube than nowt (not skimmed though, that is crap.)
I use the variable pitch tooth bi-metal HSS type on an arbor.
I collar someone to to keep it flooded with oil with a paint brush
Its about keeping the tooth tips cool more than a cutting aid, as once heated too much tempers gone--chuck it.
My two whoppers have done about 8 jobs between them now and still just about ok. bizzard
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And buy a good quality hole saw, a cheep one wont do 5 mm and still have any points on the teeth.
Indeed a proper one with an arbor.
The electric drill that i use for drilling vent and chimney collar holes is an ancient 1960's very low geared Wolf.And hang on to it for dear life or it'll break your arm.
As there's nothing modern at a reasonable cost of this type.
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uvver woise, yow ken curry on regardlez
Owkeydoughkey.
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MMmmm....but the belt sander had the advantage of coming with the dust bag. This could be retained, to catch all the skin particles.....only needs emptying twice during a normal shower. Also, as the belt is exactly the size of 2 tiles, makes a really neat job of fitting...
Yes quite so,mmm yes i think your plan might be best after all.Its the dust bag that clinches it.It would save having to use my old wheeze from way back. The rolled up 3m green scouring pad shower drain filter with lifting wire loop.
I'll nip out tomorrow and buy one,modify it and get up to Cambridge for testing.
Good one. Bizzard.
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Using a hole saw of any large size needs a very very slow high torque electric drill,as the periphery speed of a hole saw increases rapidly with increase in diameter,your talking between about 30 and 70 rpm,with a constant supply of lubricant.If not your hole saw will be uselessly blunt in a few revolutions.
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Oh yes......catalogue....club foot, don't think it went unnoticed
An' what's all this "fully tested" malarky? I had to modify the "angle grinder back scrubber", using a belt sander & some Tipex...
Professor, Sir Archibald Bashem-More of Cambridge University does all my shoe testing and is fully qualified to certificate them.
Mmmm, I'm not sure if a belt sander would reach all the contours of a human back though,although some peoples backs do look stiff as a board. Maybe an Duel action orbital Mop polisher with T-Cut on it would be best,it'd give folks backs a nice polish
up,and rub all the pimples down anyhow.
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I shall be tackling all the Formula 1 motor racing teams with this idea,as i think a new trend in footwear is due for their drivers,but only the top guns will be sought though. Virgin and the likes of them'll have to suffer on with what they've got.
At the end of the season they all start going around nickin each others drivers ,and so have to keep altering their cars to fit different drivers stance which must cost millions of £'s. The leg length being the biggest problem.
So i shall suggest to these top teams, Red Bull, McLaren and the like to stretch the car a bit,so that it would accomodate the tallest drivers, and to avoid keep shifting the pedals up and down,my extra special Leggo platform soled fully adjustable F1 Wizzer platform shoes,''exclusive only for F1'' can be worn by their more squat legged aces,and so solve their simple little pedal problem,and so save em a lot of dosh and win all the races.
I might nip down to Woking in the week and pay McLarens a visit if i can find the time.I expect they'd pay my fare.
GP stands for Grand- Pedaler, after all.
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I am a plumber and do know what you mean about inserts I only use plastic as a last resort i am still 100% confident when I solder a joint in copper you know it will last not like o rings in plastic (hep 2o & speedfit ) also some body mentioned paralel threads on radiator valves all of the thermostatic valves are and most of the good quality lock shield valves (for the other end) are now any way I am glad your sorted all the best Dave
Good stuff.Keep soldering on,its becoming a lost art.
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When wanting to do a 180 at a winding hole when the wind is on your back I imagine its best to put the bow into the hole and use the wind plus engine to push the stern round in the direction you want to go.
What about when the opposite is true, when your travelling into wind and want to turn. I'd be tempted to pass the winding hole, try to reverse in and let the wind push the bows round. This is probably fraught with the danger of getting the stern stuck in the mud but I imagine it could be tricky if not impossible to force the back round into wind on engine power alone.
I've never had to deal with this yet, anyone got any experience to relate.
Yes but always try to keep the stern end in deep water for fear of prop or rudder damage,even if it means fighting and defying the wind.
actually - that reminds me, I used to go to school with a lad who specialised in setting light to his farts...it was an impressive sight.
Not sure why I mention it, just seemed apt.
I think there's someone on U-Tube that does it.
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Do I have to fart in a jam jar to do that....
If its your thing,yes. A wet finger stuck up is good too for detecting the likely wind direction..
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Tonight i am going to drill a few holes in the floor to make sure 100% that i have no interior water leaks ( i am 99% as bilge at stern end in cabin is dry).
Check if i can the water bag is not leaking, again this may need to wait until i have emptied it and may drain it tonight.
If that doesnt solve it then i may well bang my head against a wall a little longer and source sum blocks to chuck in the engine bilge to level it out again.
ARGGHHH BUT THE BLOODY THING WAS FINE A FEW WEEKS AGO
Try exposing bits of the hull up front,press a bit of listening tube on it, even a small trickle can be heard in this way,though the stethascope is the biz.Bizzard.
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Jan once got heavily pinned against the lock landing at Alrewas and just couldn't get off, as the wind died away she managed but then it built again caught her again and very nearly spun the front end back the way she was coming from in a rather spectacular 180 - the horror bit I was virtually helpless to do anything to help other than shouting (probably useless!) instructions from the lock.
She managed to recover though.
I also got very badly caught in the wind at our old marina and managed to knock two end bits of wood off the fascia of our pontoon - the office were very understanding though...
Study your wind,it can help you as much as hinder you,when manouvering or turning. try to position your boat so that the wind helps you. ie ''Winding holes''.
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When going down hill in a lock and there's a cross wind ablowin.You get back on your ship and all seems lovely and calm down there,And then as you leave the lock, WHAM!your pinioned on the lee shore.So in strong cross winds always open up the old throttle well to avoid this happening when leaving locks, as spectators love it and they pop up out of the ground like spring onions at locks when things are going wrong. bizzard.
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Quaeritur did 'Bizzard' umquam ad scholam?
Firesprite
In the Office
I thync this iz sumthyng abowt skool.Butt beeyng az eye didnt doo Greack or Lattyn eye'm knot shore wot it meens.
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some people cant spell and then there are others who start topics in inappropriate folders...
Tel me abowt it,a badd habbit that iz.
Itt carnt bee dyfycult to desyde witch fourum two poest topiks inn kanitt.
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Kno ofence old bean butt,and i thought it would be one of the fake rivit brigade that would pick on me for my bad spelling...tut tut mr bizzard i thought you were ok
:rolleyes:
i've knot notissed yaw bad speling,purhapze beakos myne iz wurs.
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I've located two boats with hull leaks over the years with>>,and if leak is small and difficult to locate,i use a doctors type Stethascope,but an engineering one which has a rod probe instead of a listening cone.Trickling noise is greatly amplified,you just get warmer and warmer until you've found it.Also use for locating engine ect noises. bizzard.
Light switches
in Boat Building & Maintenance
Posted
Most of my DC switches are ancient Dc domestic ones,a beautiful brown colour with ceramic bases,with fascinating knife slicing action contacts,a joy to behold inside and out.All of which were picked up at junk shops and car boots for pennies. bizzard.