bizzard
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Posts posted by bizzard
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It struck me, reading the OP, that you are worried in your own mind about it, so will you always have a fear in the back of your head that it could be a problem? If so, Grind some of it off. Yes it's some work, but for your own peace of mind, worth it. The 35mm side in particular. Better now then regretting it if you did get caught up.
Yes Ally undoubtedly the best thing to do to put Johns mind at rest.He's been building Esk for i think about 4 years so another extra couple of hours grinding would not prolong the launch date by much.That bottle of Champagne on a string will be going off.
A Paddys motorbike would be the fastest way of slicing bits off,but i don't think there's enough side room for their bulk.
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There has been quite enough argument on the subject of PC already.
Oh lord yes,computers,computers,computers everyone!.
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Its the noise more than anything especially the Dom Joly blowers,and the rotary club members.They all need the heavy roller.
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Ta Stuart, it's just that I don't intend paying ripoff rental prices for the oxy cyl.
Couldn't use flame to trim at the mo, due to the build being on that lengthways bed of sleepers.
You've been watching that Aston Martin in "Goldfinger"No it was the chariot wheel hub saws in Ben-Hur.
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Ahoy and welcome.
Even if you do go for a pumpout bog unless you happen to moor during the winter actually on the pumpout point,a Porta-Pottie is a must as a stand by. Regards Bizzard.
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is the grass being cut more often,i do hope there wont be a problem with "continuous mowers".
I think so along with continuous Joggers.
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They could be trimmed off with a 9''angle grinder,cutting disc''but i'd leave them,they'll help to protect the Anodes.
Looking good.
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There is a gardening tip on the canal bank where I live. People tip their grass cuttings and hedge clippings there.
That'll be the towpath mowers.
I was thinking more on the lines of an embedded Rootkit, PC virus.Always more difficult to weedle out.
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This guys a professional!!!
I find I look out for his posts now, what ever subject
Bizzard Thank you!
Col
Plenty more to come.
Many thanks Big Col.
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Or just tap a thread and screw in a small taper plug type gas tap,the fold down butterfly lever type is best.
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Nice welding too,good penetration.
What about making use of that width by angle grinding sharp saw teeth along both sides.You could then sail about cutting off unwanted wooden piles sticking up,or by sawing backwards and forwards saw for yourself a nice tailor-made mooring.
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It must be some kind of gardening tip.
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Frankly the hire boat companies could quite easily make loads of side fenders very very cheaply by the rope and rubber hose method,and suspended them high up so that they are free to roll along say lock walls and escape most of the time anyway from being torn off.I personally wouldn't be too pleased at all banging about against Armco or stone coping without any.
And surely the use of them would save the hire companies the trouble of touching up the paint at change over tine.
Those dopey permanently suspended low down ones i think are a great idea, as i collect them and flog em on cheap.
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I heard of a complete tram track nut,not trams so much but their track.
He would pay clandestine visits to towns and cities all over the country in the 1950's where they were being taken out and would spend hours laboring away with a ''hacksaw''to cut off a 6''length of track for his museum at home.
He was also a cast iron manhole cover enthusiast,and was often seen photographing and making rubbings of their relief cast lettering and so forth.
Wonderful stuff.
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Last year we got lots of toxic sludge running down the side of the boat from the chimney. Over the summer we bought a double-skinned chimney. 1st use last night with pretty dry wood, but disappointed to find goo on the roof this morning. What's to be done about it?
I've found that by doing away with any chimney that overlaps the collar flange does the trick.
I stopped it years ago by siliconing in lightly a chimney tube ''INSIDE' the collar,lightly in case it strikes something and so will knock out without causing damage.You can also try winding string tightly around chimney base and collar to soak up the goo and change the string often.
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Yes, I see I have confused people by using the word 'tramway'. You appear to think this means something to do with electric double-deckers splashing through a rainy night filled with happy passengers on the way home
Many tramways were horse-drawn or man powered colliery lines, or industrial lines used for moving materials around factories and mines, generally to a narrow gauge - which is probably what this was
Richard
On the other hand, Birmingham Corporation Tramways were built to a gauge of 3'6" - this is nothing to do with that
MORE: Bizzard, I'd remove you from my ignore list if you dropped that ghastly avatar. Until then I can't take you seriously
I don't mind being ignored,i've grown used to it.
However Cleopatra's due for some Beauty-Spa treatment,her age yer know.
I also have an even more ghastlier portrait of her taken before her last make over,which i have yet to depict as an Avatar.
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If you do touch up the paint in random places, T-cut the surrounding area well first.By doing this the new paint colour will blend to the old paint as best as can be expected.
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Another image
Richard
The standard tram track gauge throughout the country was 4'-8.5''the same as the railways,your photo's look narrower,also they usually used the slotted track on cobble sett's.''And so close to the canal!''.Double decker trams have been known to fall over onto their sides when going too fast on uneven track and suddenly hitting a sharp curve.For that reason i doubt if they were passenger tram tracks.
If they are in their original position and not just laid fairly recently for a tourists novelty attraction, perhaps they were used for transporting goods to and from boats moored at the wharfs.As i'm not aquainted at all with the area cannot comment further.
I do have a brilliant DVD of archive tramcar film. ''100 years of british trams''covering all the towns and cities.
My Grandfather in i think it was 1956 took me on one of the ''last days'' tram services in Liverpool, The No,5a Smithdown Road to Pier-Head,and i think it was 4d fare for my grandad and 2d for me.
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This engine looks like an ex industrial engine and probably rotates opposite to the marine version.
The flywheel and Starter ring gear are on the camshaft.
You say that the propshaft rotates anti-clockwise when viewing from behind when engine is running in forward gear,so providing the gearbox ''IS DIRECT 1.1''it would require ''A LEFT HAND PROPELLER''.
Did tour old prop have L/H or R/H stamped on it,somewhere on the boss area?
if the gearbox coupling rotates in the same direction as the engine,it could be 1-1 or 3-1
Only if the 3.1 had 3rd intermediate gear wheel.
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does the gearbox coupling and propshaft rotate in the opposite direction to the engine?
if that is the case,the reduction is 2-1
That's right,but Ian's still not certain that its a direct 1.1,box.
On the SR engine unless you can see the flywheel rotate,at the other end of the engine there is no crankshaft stub showing,only the camshaft stub which should be driving his alternator,this camshaft rotates in the opposite direction to the crankshaft and at precisely half its RPM. If Ian just tells us which direction his alternator turns when engine is running,we just reverse that to give us the true direction of rotation of the crankshaft.
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And those dreadful clonkin great platform soled shoes.
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Yes I can see where you are coming from as to where am I going with this, it started for me with aquiring this boat, getting the engine going putting it in gear, pushing off, bit of throttle and bashing into the bank as the thing went backwards. Put it into reverse and forward we went all be it very slowly. Conclusion must have the wrong prop, I was told it was a lm100 gearbox so I contacted Crowthers, gave them all the details I thought to be correct and they came back with a prop I needed born out by Chris on here. The prop is now being made and as things have come to light I appear to be getting deeper and deeper in the mier. Apart from the thing going backwards instead of forward and it will only do half a mile an hour the engine and box work fine. I was told running in reverse for a long period would boil the oil hence the reason for changing the oil and the start of the thread, but life does not appear that simple. I know I need a new prop but I am not sure I will have the right one hence the tangent to the thread , must seem crazy to get a box and engine to match my prop but I am very wet behind the ears as you will have guessed. This forum is very good and is helping me greatly please don't give up on me just yet cheers, Ian.
You must determine and tell us what reduction that gearbox as i described how to do earlier, its probably ''direct 1,1''and the rotation direction of engines crankshaft,as Tim sayes it could be an industrial SR2. Start the engine and tell us which way the pulley which drives your alternator turns looking at it face on,facing the stern,as this pulley is driven by the camshaft and revolves in the opposite direction to the crankshaft. If we Know these facts we could determine roughly which prop you should have.
Then you can contact your prop supplier and tell them these facts also and so get the correct propeller.
You've been watching that Aston Martin in "Goldfinger"
Baseplate protrusion
in Boat Building & Maintenance
Posted
I agree but never used one so can't really comment on them.
I like my old oxy acetylene gear for all that kind of thing,more dramatic and scatters away nosey parkers.