Nemysys

November 20, 2021

As always, big thanks to all who have commented and helped.

This forum never seems to fail to deliver. Very helpful.

November 20, 2021

Thank you all, I think based on comments, it is probably a gummed up pilot light mechanism. The amount of hammering and vibration during the ‘ongoing’ refit could quite easily have disturbed something.

unfortunately, I’m not flexible, I’m a double leg amputee and yes the viewing window is on the floor. In the new year when the rads are reconnected again, I’m going to get the Alde / whole CH system serviced. Don’t want to mess around with gas and CO, even with alarms fitted.

November 20, 2021

Thanks for the replies. Only have the Alde and a gas hob on board, both near each other and the gas bottles. Hob lights, have to purge the air first of course, both are running from the same gas pipe, Alde first then the hob. So have purged all the air apart from where the Alde tee’s off the main pipe. That’s not going to be a long tee pipe, probably <50cm. Always had to purge air for a short while, but this is extra long.

Sounds like it could then be fluffed up or damp. It’s in such an inaccessible place. Is it something I can safely look at, or is it a ‘professional’ job?

I have gas detector alarm and CO alarm of course, but wouldn’t want to do anything dangerous.

November 19, 2021

Thanks all, finally got back to the boat and inspected the Alde, it appeared that there was something missing between the control knob cam and the micro switch. I guess some sort of lever. The control knob cam never gets anywhere close to the micro switch, have worked around that, have now installed a momentary push switch on the outside, so press the control knob for gas and the new switch to ignite.

Next issue, and I might be answering my own question…..

I cannot get the Alde pilot light to ignite. The boiler hasn’t been lit for about 2 years due to boat refit. But…….

There is currently no water in the system, radiators need reconnecting. I was only trying to light the pilot briefly as a test.
is there a pressure switch or something in the boiler, as in ‘no water in system therefore no gas is coming through’ or could there be another issue?

I would like to prove the system works, but will when all connected and ready be arranging a boiler service any way.

Thanks again.

October 9, 2021

Of course, this is what I love about this forum, so much help from everyone. ❤️

https://manualzz.com/doc/1527378/alde-comfort-2923-2928-technical-data

in my case it looks like section 5.4 is the answer, which points you to section 6.10

October 9, 2021

Thank you, very much appreciated.

Since asking, I have found online a technical manual and one of the troubleshooting articles says exactly the same.

Hope that is all it is.

October 9, 2021

Hi

Been refitting our NB, and in the process of putting things back.

Reconnected the electric to the Alde 2928, which hasn’t been used for probably 2 years, it is sparking every second or so like it would when I want to light it. Turning the dial to off, I can hear the mechanical switch click, however it still continues to keep sparking. There is no gas switched on at this time, so don’t know if it would stop when lit.

Only way to stop it sparking is to cut the 12v feed.

Anyone have any ideas what the problem could be?

Thanks

April 21, 2021

Example of batoning the wall.
had to refit a lot of this, add more batons!

April 21, 2021

Currently going through a complete refit.

with regard to itchy fibreglass, we used

https://www.diy.com/departments/diall-insulation-roll-l-6m-w-0-37m-t-100mm/3663602481812_BQ.prd

more expensive but no itch!

we have also gone for a baton / t&g approach, big learning curve, but the first room (which we have learnt and improved on for the next room) has lasted well.

here is a before and after photo, the whole thing is still work in progress.

March 12, 2021

3 hours ago, Tony Brooks said:

As I can't see the covers so don't really know what you have I assume they are similar to the flying saucer vents many hire boats have. If the screws you talk of are self tappers I would drill and tap the roof and cover to accept machine screws and use a sealer on the threads. I would do the same if the vents are mushroom vents using a flange onto the roof.

Remember Photos allow everyone to understand what you are talking about.

Sorry, no decent photos of the vents, maybe you get a clue from this zoomed in image.

yes, they have a flange around them with self tappers.

March 12, 2021

21 minutes ago, Tracy D'arth said:

Are you sure that they leak? It could be condensation on the underside dripping in. Always very possible in the present wet cold conditions.

We are currently refitting the boat, and have witnessed leaks through screw holes etc.

Understand what you say about condensation, but this is noticeable when it rains.

There has been minimal maintenance done to the vent covers over the last number of years, so to protect the new interior was looking to do some external maintenance, looking for suggestions on how best to create a waterproof seal.

March 12, 2021

Hi all

Any suggestions on the best way / product to seal the external roof mounted ventilation covers. They are about 10” diameter with 8-10 screws holding them down.

Before anybody mentions it, I’m not looking to block the vents, just to seal around the edges as I believe rain is seeping underneath and getting inside.

I had seen a ‘squeezy’ instant silicon gasket sealant, comes in a tube a bit like the sealant you would use around your shower.

Thought was to remove the vent cover, run a ring of this around the outside, just outside the screw hole ring and then screw them back down.

Thoughts?

Darren

September 20, 2020

Thank you. Yes it was marinised by Calcutt.

the engine was run on idle for about 2 hours.

I have emailed the marina anyway asking to be booked in for an engine service. It is well over due. I mentioned the temperature, they will know better than I.

as I’m sure it is obvious, I’m not clued up on engines.

September 19, 2020

I haven’t read all replies, just giving my opinion, but of course the choice is yours.

I am a double leg amputee and have an ‘assistance dog’ who wants to be with or near me. We have a cruiser stern, works well as I pilot the boat. A Trad stern wouldn’t work for us as my dog wouldn’t have space.

September 19, 2020

You may have seen my previous posts about ‘no hot water’, this has been answered and resolved (thanks Tony Brooks). insufficient engine coolant for the engine and calorifier.

All temperatures quoted below are based on the analogue gauge.

I have a BMC 1.8, following topping up the coolant, the engine seems to be running at about 65 degrees.I’m sure before i topped up the coolant, it was about 80 degrees.

what is the correct running temperature for an engine?

I know this will vary per engine, just looking for a guide.

can an engine be damaged by running too cool?

I have booked in for a full engine service, so all should be sorted then, but I like to know and learn for future.

thanks

September 19, 2020

Thank you to everyone for their help.

@Tony Brooks - you were correct.

I looked at the coolant level in the engine, added 3 litres to top it up! Ran the engine, bled the air out using the gate valve a few times, and voila, we have hot water. I haven’t had a chance to check since the engine cooled, but suspect it will need a bit more top up.

I have found the bottom pipe connection on the gate valve is leaking, tried tightening but suspect it needs replacing.

September 13, 2020

Thank you all.

I won’t be able to get back to the boat until Saturday, will follow advice and keep fingers crossed!

September 13, 2020

Thanks Tony.

Not planning on re plumbing this, this is as it was and we were previously getting hot water. Take your point about the ‘spigot’ though

Although you can’t see on the photo, I checked and the pipework definitely connects to the cylinder about 1/3 and 2/3 of the way up.

Strangely the gate valve was closed. The gate valve is only between the header tank and the pipe work. Just below the valve the pipe tee’s one way to the engine bay, the other way to the calorifier. The second pipe from the calorifier also goes to the engine bay.

The boat has a skin tank, is this likely to be connected in series or parallel to this pipe work? I.e. if I top this up, it will top up the skin tank as well? (If needed)

Little Tank

I

Valve

I

Towards engine <——> cylinder 2/3 up

I

Towards engine <——> cylinder 1/3 up

September 13, 2020

Thanks all for comments. See attached images.

The small tank labelled ‘coolant’ is the white one at the top left of the photo. The pipes go into the side of the cylinder. One about a 1/3 up, the other about 2/3 up the cylinder. These flexible pipes then head towards the engine bay under the cruiser stern. The gate valve is just between the little tank and the pipe work circuit.

There are similar pipes coming out of the cylinder on the opposite side, this is near the Alde, so assume they go there.

I dip tested the small tank, and there was a little bit of fluid at the bottom, but the level would be below the bottom outlet pipe level.

my presumption is that the hoses are also empty as they can be squeezed quite easily.

Should I put an antifreeze mix in here, and how far up the tank do I fill it?

Thanks

September 12, 2020

Thank you for replies, I ran the engine for 1 to 1 1/2 hours, would’ve expected some hot water by then, based on previous usage. There was a very minor difference in water temperature between hot and cold taps.

We don’t use the Alde for hot water, it has always been done by the engine. I know of the Alde tank you mention.

We have a reverse layout, the hot water cylinder and coolant/expansion tank safe right at the back of the cabin, direct line, one meter or so from the top of the engine (most of that 1m is vertical.). BMC 1.8, which also has a skin tank.

I cannot visually see the content of the ‘coolant’ tank because it is white, not transparent, but it feels empty when rattled. BTW, the expansion tank looks like it would only hold a pint or so.

The pipes you mention were not getting hot, I did check the engine temperature gauge and that was running fine. I think you have confirmed my suspicion that I am low on coolant.

So if I fill up with between 25% and 50% antifreeze and water, and fill the expansion tank to half way, I should be good?

I’ll get a photo next time I go to the boat, may help clarify things.

September 12, 2020

Apologies if this is an obvious question or I am talking rubbish.

We are currently going through a major rip out and refit of our boat, due to pandemic conditions, everything has been delayed. But we continue now.

The boat hasn’t been run for a while, finally we have got the kitchen back in, using existing pipe work, but not getting hot water. All used to be OK.

We have a hot water cylinder, believe it is called a calorifier where the water is heated from the engine. We also have an Alde boiler hardly used. The Alde is currently empty of water as heating pipes have been removed.

Ran the engine today after filling up the water tanks, but the water never heated up. This used to work fine, nothing has been changed with the pipe work here.

Next to the cylinder located high up is a difficult to access small tank with a ‘car radiator’ type pressure cap on it, the tank is labelled coolant. Looking at pipe work, this is connected into pipes on the hot water cylinder, but although I cannot see in it, the coolant tank feels empty. Could this be why the water is not heating?

What should I put in the ‘coolant tank’? and how much should I put in, for example, keep it half full etc, once the lower pipe work has filled up.

Would this be connected with the Alde boat radiator pipe work or would it be a separate circuit?

Thanks in advance.

February 7, 2020

On 28/01/2020 at 11:44, RonnieF1967 said:

Hi

We are in the process of fitting additional 12v sockets and came across this seller on eBay

https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/empral_uk/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_ipg=&_from=

Good luck

thank you, I contacted seller through eBay, and ended up chatting over text message, very quick response, purchased what I need at the moment direct saved about 15% over eBay prices.

very helpful, they also have a facebook page ‘Empral Leisure’ and they have said I can pass on their phone number if anyone is interested. Please send me a message if you want their number.

January 29, 2020

Thanks everyone for your comments, I now see and understand what is needed for flush mounted CBE / C-Line sockets, already working out my shopping list, thanks to an earlier reply and eBay link.

January 28, 2020

3 hours ago, Slim said:

On the matter of socket you've had any number of replies so I won't add. Regarding the fitout in general I see you have a couple of houdini hatches. When you line them out make sure that whatever you make can be dropped out without having to disturb the ceiling lining itself. I did this more by accident than design and it was one of my better moves.

Frank

houdini hatches? Are you referring to the windows? Sorry I couldn’t rotate the photo. If my boat was that way, I’d have serious concerns. ?

January 28, 2020

4 hours ago, WotEver said:

Answered in post 7

Apologies, missed the last line. Was preoccupied with the links.

thanks

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