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Nemysys

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Everything posted by Nemysys

  1. Thank you. Yes it was marinised by Calcutt. the engine was run on idle for about 2 hours. I have emailed the marina anyway asking to be booked in for an engine service. It is well over due. I mentioned the temperature, they will know better than I. as I’m sure it is obvious, I’m not clued up on engines.
  2. I haven’t read all replies, just giving my opinion, but of course the choice is yours. I am a double leg amputee and have an ‘assistance dog’ who wants to be with or near me. We have a cruiser stern, works well as I pilot the boat. A Trad stern wouldn’t work for us as my dog wouldn’t have space.
  3. You may have seen my previous posts about ‘no hot water’, this has been answered and resolved (thanks Tony Brooks). insufficient engine coolant for the engine and calorifier. All temperatures quoted below are based on the analogue gauge. I have a BMC 1.8, following topping up the coolant, the engine seems to be running at about 65 degrees.I’m sure before i topped up the coolant, it was about 80 degrees. what is the correct running temperature for an engine? I know this will vary per engine, just looking for a guide. can an engine be damaged by running too cool? I have booked in for a full engine service, so all should be sorted then, but I like to know and learn for future. thanks
  4. Thank you to everyone for their help. @Tony Brooks - you were correct. I looked at the coolant level in the engine, added 3 litres to top it up! Ran the engine, bled the air out using the gate valve a few times, and voila, we have hot water. I haven’t had a chance to check since the engine cooled, but suspect it will need a bit more top up. I have found the bottom pipe connection on the gate valve is leaking, tried tightening but suspect it needs replacing.
  5. Thank you all. I won’t be able to get back to the boat until Saturday, will follow advice and keep fingers crossed!
  6. Thanks Tony. Not planning on re plumbing this, this is as it was and we were previously getting hot water. Take your point about the ‘spigot’ though Although you can’t see on the photo, I checked and the pipework definitely connects to the cylinder about 1/3 and 2/3 of the way up. Strangely the gate valve was closed. The gate valve is only between the header tank and the pipe work. Just below the valve the pipe tee’s one way to the engine bay, the other way to the calorifier. The second pipe from the calorifier also goes to the engine bay. The boat has a skin tank, is this likely to be connected in series or parallel to this pipe work? I.e. if I top this up, it will top up the skin tank as well? (If needed) Little Tank I Valve I Towards engine <——> cylinder 2/3 up I I Towards engine <——> cylinder 1/3 up
  7. Thanks all for comments. See attached images. The small tank labelled ‘coolant’ is the white one at the top left of the photo. The pipes go into the side of the cylinder. One about a 1/3 up, the other about 2/3 up the cylinder. These flexible pipes then head towards the engine bay under the cruiser stern. The gate valve is just between the little tank and the pipe work circuit. There are similar pipes coming out of the cylinder on the opposite side, this is near the Alde, so assume they go there. I dip tested the small tank, and there was a little bit of fluid at the bottom, but the level would be below the bottom outlet pipe level. my presumption is that the hoses are also empty as they can be squeezed quite easily. Should I put an antifreeze mix in here, and how far up the tank do I fill it? Thanks
  8. Thank you for replies, I ran the engine for 1 to 1 1/2 hours, would’ve expected some hot water by then, based on previous usage. There was a very minor difference in water temperature between hot and cold taps. We don’t use the Alde for hot water, it has always been done by the engine. I know of the Alde tank you mention. We have a reverse layout, the hot water cylinder and coolant/expansion tank safe right at the back of the cabin, direct line, one meter or so from the top of the engine (most of that 1m is vertical.). BMC 1.8, which also has a skin tank. I cannot visually see the content of the ‘coolant’ tank because it is white, not transparent, but it feels empty when rattled. BTW, the expansion tank looks like it would only hold a pint or so. The pipes you mention were not getting hot, I did check the engine temperature gauge and that was running fine. I think you have confirmed my suspicion that I am low on coolant. So if I fill up with between 25% and 50% antifreeze and water, and fill the expansion tank to half way, I should be good? I’ll get a photo next time I go to the boat, may help clarify things.
  9. Apologies if this is an obvious question or I am talking rubbish. We are currently going through a major rip out and refit of our boat, due to pandemic conditions, everything has been delayed. But we continue now. The boat hasn’t been run for a while, finally we have got the kitchen back in, using existing pipe work, but not getting hot water. All used to be OK. We have a hot water cylinder, believe it is called a calorifier where the water is heated from the engine. We also have an Alde boiler hardly used. The Alde is currently empty of water as heating pipes have been removed. Ran the engine today after filling up the water tanks, but the water never heated up. This used to work fine, nothing has been changed with the pipe work here. Next to the cylinder located high up is a difficult to access small tank with a ‘car radiator’ type pressure cap on it, the tank is labelled coolant. Looking at pipe work, this is connected into pipes on the hot water cylinder, but although I cannot see in it, the coolant tank feels empty. Could this be why the water is not heating? What should I put in the ‘coolant tank’? and how much should I put in, for example, keep it half full etc, once the lower pipe work has filled up. Would this be connected with the Alde boat radiator pipe work or would it be a separate circuit? Thanks in advance.
  10. thank you, I contacted seller through eBay, and ended up chatting over text message, very quick response, purchased what I need at the moment direct saved about 15% over eBay prices. very helpful, they also have a facebook page ‘Empral Leisure’ and they have said I can pass on their phone number if anyone is interested. Please send me a message if you want their number.
  11. Thanks everyone for your comments, I now see and understand what is needed for flush mounted CBE / C-Line sockets, already working out my shopping list, thanks to an earlier reply and eBay link.
  12. houdini hatches? Are you referring to the windows? Sorry I couldn’t rotate the photo. If my boat was that way, I’d have serious concerns. 🙂
  13. Apologies, missed the last line. Was preoccupied with the links. thanks
  14. Thank you, ideal. Have found everything I need and understand the safety boxes now for the 240v will be placing an order soon
  15. That was part of my initial question. What parts were needed, if no back box is required then happy days. I just assumed for both 12v and 240v some rear protection was required
  16. Thanks to all. the C-line / CBE dockets... I understand the parts you see and the wiring, but what about the back boxes? I’m using a household domestic idea as a scenario. is the back box square or round?
  17. Not been to all the links, but thank you I will do
  18. To get them all to match, was looking at CBE / C-Line sockets for both 240v and 12v. Went to a caravan / motor home shop and was a little confused what was needed to make a complete unit.
  19. Thanks for the note about cable type, had already been told this, so using combination of existing cable infrastructure and new arctic blue flex.just looking for the socket types and what to get.
  20. So far, all going well. Learned a lot going along. Question about Electric sockets. Looking at CBE / C-Line sockets for both 240v and 12v although separated. My dad is an electric; engineer and knows how to wire things up, this is not the issue. as an example, what do I need to buy for a double 13a 240v socket, as in backboxs, faceplates, surrounds etc. and again the same for a 12v outlet, maybe triple, usb, 5a socket and cigarette lighter socket. thanks
  21. Thanks all, lots of good info here. yes I was looking to use thick twin and earth domestic cable. (Cooker point etc) Glad I asked now!
  22. Currently going through a boat refit. Complete strip out and refit. looking at a Dometic 12v Compressor fridge and a standard home domestic 240v combi microwave. At this stage we can easily provide a 2.5mm2 (or more) ring main style cable for both, about 3-4m in length, we can on board produce 240v 4KVA from shore or engine. Is this cable enough? Also looking at the possibility of installing a macerator toilet but they need 14-25a plus for short periods, cable length here would be 10m or so at 12v, would a 6mm2 cable suffice, or should I go for 10mm2?
  23. Thank you to everyone who has replied and commented, I really appreciate it. Please continue, I am learning more and more as I go along. Bearing in mind the boat is 41 years old, we have had her for the last 8 years with minimal updates to the interior. Only panels we have had to change is where a window has leaked over winter. She has had 15mm (ish) expanded polystyrene insulation panels for as long as we have had her, and I would think by looking at fixtures and fittings, another 10+ yeas at least. So I would guess 20+ years of sub-optimal insulation, if not longer! To put it into context, I think we are very lucky. The boat has just had a survey (2019), and comments like “base plate was built with 5.0mm steel, still by ultrasonic measurement is 5.0mm thick”, and “sides were built with 4.8mm and 9.6mm steel, by ultrasonic measurement still are 4.8mm and 9.6mm). I have been told in the past that it is believed the steel used was ‘marine grade’ steel. Am I worrying over nothing? Am I over thinking what insulation is needed? We are not living aboard, and if the weather was that cold, we would go home! We do leave a ‘frost stat heater’ on over winter. Thanks.
  24. Hi, just revisiting a thread I started. the refit of our boat has started, she is a 50 footer, built in 1978. Due to new insurers and the fact we are refitting it, the current expanded polystyrene insulation has to be replaced. It has been deemed not fire retardant. The refit is being done in stages, so I cant get someone in to spray foam it all in one, so looking to DIY spray foam it as we go along. My friend who is doing the refit has suggested spray foam insulation as the best option. He is happy to do it. Due to the age and shape of the boat etc, we would have varying thicknesses of foam as we go up and down and along. We don’t live on the boat and don’t use it in the cold weather. I know there will be people saying don’t do it yourself, but we don’t have a choice. Looking to see if there are any recommendations on product and regulations etc. attached image of the first part of the rip out / refurb. Thanks
  25. Thanks Tony. are you suggesting something like this? https://www.amazon.co.uk/Dripex-Double-Aluminium-Insulation-Caravan/dp/B07FRBMXY9/ref=asc_df_B07FRBMXY9/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309872438144&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=12169923978220820558&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=t&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1006959&hvtargid=pla-698683054921&psc=1 so from outside in as an example.... 1) steel boat side 2) spray foam adhesive, holding 3) celotex, then tape the joints with aluminium tape 4) this style of bubble wrap, again tape the joints with aluminium tape 5) interior cabin boarding. Or am I going for overkill here? bearing in mind, she is 41 years old, currently has 12-15mm expanded polystyrene sheets, and no noticeable signs of damage. we don’t use her during the winter, but she has had some interior But localised wood damage due to winter moisture. the insulation is more for the boat, rather than for us. If it was that cold, we would be at home. ?
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