Timx
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Posts posted by Timx
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I do take your point, thank you.
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The lights are working fine again now, but will get it looked at, worried about it shorting somewhere, maybe it’s moisture after cooking.
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Thanks, I will get it looked at.
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Hi, half of the lights in my boat cabin are only coming on as dim, the other half , to second switch come on fine. They are all LED, but why all of a sudden would one set be dim. Batteries are fine, and all other lights and power are fine, just one set of lights. Could there be a short somewhere, and do I need to get it sorted asap.? I have been getting a static type shock when touching the switch over last couple of days, but that may just be a coincidental. Any ideas what problem may be.? Thanks.
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I prefer to do the four counties clockwise, mainly because it’s easier going down the shroppie, because of the bywashes. You have to depend on luck regards which way boats are travelling in holiday boat time, it can work for you at busy times.
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8 hours ago, Paul Evans said:
Have a look here:
Solid Fuel Technology Institute
and here:
Without an effective protection panel at least 800mm gaps.
With an effective protection panel at least 80mm plus the tiles (that is 10mm air gap, 25mm calcium silicate board and 45mm air gap)
Thanks,
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10 hours ago, Richard10002 said:
I used this kind of stuff around my gas water heater:
In fact, this is what I thought yours might be in the first place, rather than the plastic based insulation stuff.
Thank you, is that better than the flu wrap I featured, the wood and even the tiles were scarily hot last night, I am still not sure what to do.
I put some supermarket foil up for tonight, £2.49 has solved problem pro tem
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So , thinking of getting this as a replacement, not happy with wood getting hot.
Stick that on wall where took other stuff off ?
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31 minutes ago, waterworks said:
Another reminder about foil bubble wrap being mis-sold as insulation.
https://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/article/stay-away-from-foil-faced-bubble-wrap
Since the main benefit from foil-faced bubble wrap is due to its radiant-barrier facing, the product is basically worthless unless it faces an air space.
So if it is facing an air space, as mine was, it’s radiant barrier effect works, the wood ,now exposed is getting hot, as before the foil,it was cool to touch, hot wood is worse than cool reflective foil. -
14 minutes ago, waterworks said:
Another reminder about foil bubble wrap being mis-sold as insulation.
https://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/article/stay-away-from-foil-faced-bubble-wrap
Hi, got the fire going hot, but only one third full, and the wall where I took that stuff down is hot to touch, mainly the edge nearest the fire, do you find this on your wood nearest the fire, it is quite hot, think this was my original thoughts before I put the aluminium up.It is measured bss compliant, but seems too hot to me again. Or is this normal ?
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Looks so much better off. Thanks again.
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So should of used this stuff, thanks for the education guys, how they say fire retardant at E is amazing to me, thanks for all replies.
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But having looked at a similar product, fire resistant , then gives an E rating, amazing.
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10 minutes ago, TheBiscuits said:
It's only Class E (Combustible, High contribution to fire) when it's half an inch of plasterboard away from fire!
Take it out, preferably tonight or at least tomorrow!
My stove surround is built to the current recommendations - 25mm thick Calcium Silicate board (kiln lining, rated at 1100 degrees celsius) with a 10mm air space behind that ...
The fire board, is fine, I just used this to reflect heat, I will take it down, and probably don’t need it anymore, however, I can’t find the rating on the link to product provided, so it may be A1, as it says non flammable , and not e that goes behind fire board.
will find another product anyway, thanks for your answers.
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Thanks, I will take it down, how can they say non flammable…? Disgraceful.
will look for something else, although the fire doesn’t get as hot now as that first year.
Thanks for looking.
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9 hours ago, Alan de Enfield said:
Is that REALLY foilised bubble wrap and gaffer tape ?
If so how an earth has it passed the BSS - its a death trap.
Has been fine over last two winters, do you think it is not appropriate.?
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9 hours ago, waterworks said:
Because it's flammable.
Says flame resistant on the spec, are you saying it is flammable?
4 hours ago, TheBiscuits said:It does to me. What do you think it is?
Says non flammable. Do you disagree ?
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Hi, thanks for your concerns, I have looked up the orders and they are shown below, they have been up two years, but I would take them down if more experienced think they’re a risk. I did point them out on last bss as I explained walls were getting too warm for my liking.But he never really looked at them, just said fire would of got hotter as I had given it a bit of revamp.
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3 hours ago, Alan de Enfield said:
I guess we will never know if he doesn't answer my question.
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I put it up two years ago after the walls seemed to be getting too warm, why do you think I should take it down now, behind and around the fire it is on top of tiled fire board, to reflect heat. Above the boards, has the same effect, why is it dangerous?
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It’s cold to touch and reflects heat
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Re visiting this topic, couldn’t find anyone to replace flu, three places looked at it, said they would sort it, but then refused after keeping me wait around, Nantwich I was waiting three weeks, and eventually just said he wasn’t going to do job. Overwater, work shop ,wouldn’t commit and messed me around for two weeks, made promises but let me down. So I got a steel band, wrapped it around rusted outer skin( inner skin was intact) then attached two jubilee clips above and below, put heat resistant silicon, over the hole first, and over the out side top and bottom. Painted it black heat resistant paint, and now got it burning away, just keeping an eye on it now. Will try and put b4 and after pic up. Cost me £100. The Morso flu kit I was going to get was about £650, and if I had used those marinas would of been a few ton on top of that, so fingers crossed it works.
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When I bought the boat, the pump was knackered he had been using a paella pump to extract the oil, so I bought a new pump off ASAP, so I will have a look for hose tail , and or spigot.
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No that’s not my engine, I just saw it on another place, and it reminded me I need that bit, at the moment a little plug screws in there, but I know that bent bit should be there, or available, as I have seen it fitted on the same engine, and makes sense.
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Lights going dim.
in Boat Building & Maintenance
Posted
So it’s likely to be the switch, I will try there first before paying someone.