Richard10002
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Posts posted by Richard10002
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Dominic (M),
If someone asked if they could survey a boat before signing the contract and paying a deposit, would you refuse point blank, or allow them to do it, having made them aware that the owner may subsequently choose not to sell to them.... Or would you refuse them the opportunity, albeit in the politest of terms?
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Is this a Boatmans cooking type stove or a steel bodied Boatman stove.
I'd say it's a steel bodied one. I've boiled a kettle and a coffee pot on the hot pate bit, but it can't possibly be designed for cooking.
It's the flue I'm talking about, not the chimney
The collar was cemented top and bottom, and there's definitely lots of shredded fire rope coming out of the gap between collar and flue. I don't think I've removed an integral part of the fire
Looks like I'll be releasing the flue at the roof... Not a bad idea as th surveyor suggested it needs looking at around the big lump of steel bolted to the roof - which the chimney seems to sit on.
I'll be needing some fire rope and sealant. I think I've got a tub of cement, and a tube of Plumba if it hasn't gone off.
Happy Days
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Hi,
My Boatman Stove is a bit rusty, so I want to remove it, clean it up, paint/black it, etc..
There is a collar between the chimney and the stove, which was well secured with some kind if fibre and cement. I've manage to free the collar so it spins around the chimney, but it won't lift up the chimney to release the stove underneath. I think it's a reducing collar, narrower at th stove end, so it won't rise up the chimney.
Do I have to dismantle the chimney at the roof, so the chimney can be raised out of the way.... Or is there a secret method at the Stove end.... Like taking the legs off fom under?
This is another 5 minute job that could take all Winter!
Many Thanks, as ever
Richard
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As the title suggests, we're on the verge of buying our first boat and are being pushed VERY hard by the broker to pay a 10% deposit and sign a badly written agreement of sale before we can do a survey. Is this the norm? We're very keen to get the survey done asap, suspect it will be fine as the boat's relatively new, and just want to get on with the whole thing.... it just seems very odd to take this approach as we don't do it with houses or cars do we??
Any thoughts?
Dom.
Who is the broker. Whilst it might be the norm, there is no actual reason why you have to pay a deposit and sign a contract before being allowed to have a survey. However, if you pay a deposit and sign the contract, it should mean that the broker/seller cannot consider alternative offers. No deposit and contract, and you might find they sell to someone else, even if you've paid for a lift and a survey.
Have they said you cannot have a survey without paying and signing?
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Thanks for all your comments - I think we're going to give Scarisbrick a go.
I've heard no references to HMP Scarisbrick so hopefully it'll be ok
Might put our names down at St. Mary's Marina just in case........
I think Scarisbrick is under the same ownership/management, so the regime will be similar, although the impression I got was that the owner/manager spends most time at Fettlers.
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Hi there, I'm new to this forum and could do with some advice please.
My friend is selling her 20ft springer, its has been replated on its hull and has an outboard motor. The brokers say that it should go for another 20 years with the new hull. I'm concerned about the outboard tho. I cant see myself looking for garages to get petrol every other day when I'm cruising...that's not fun! Ive done extensive cruising on hire boats over the years and really love it and this seems like a dream come true. But I'm used to pulling along side the diesel pump with the boat and not having to trek over fields and stuff to find a garage..Am I being unreasonably worried about this? I really liked the boat but dont just want to be stuck in one place with it, or continuously cruising the same stretch of canal..Any feedback will be great. Gx
Before doing something rash, don't forget that you can always turn your money into a boat, but it is much harder to turn a boat into money.
There are plenty of other boats for sale, so you don't need to feel any pressure to buy your friends boat - a broker might tell you anything to get a sale, ( although overplating ought to last for many years). If you are concerned about petrol, then so will your buyer when the time comes. In addition to being hard to find, it's much more dangerous than diesel.
How much have you got to spend? Have you researched the market to see if there is a small diesel engined boat that might suit you?
If you've already considered all of this, and your friends is the best buy, (rather than the easiest), carry on
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Strikes me that you would be in safer hands woth an experienced boater rather han someone with a bit of RYA paper. Some of the things they teach are plain stupid, like you cannot "work" the helm to assist turning and staying a set distance from the towpath even on bends. I would like to see one of their tutors on a full length working boat (but not mine)!
I did the course in 2006, and one of the things I learned was that pumping the tiller helped to turn the boat. I presume that's what you mean by "work" the helm. Don't recall having to stay a set distance from towpath either. Perhaps different instructors have different interpretations.
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I think you are over complicating this.
At some point you feel that you are no longer getting "value for money" out of your generator. If this is 10A, then set the tail current value so the generator stops at 10A.
At some point, you believe your batteries are emptied enough to want to start the generator. This will be around 50% to 60% SOC, do set the generator to start when the monitor shows this figure.
The Victron SOC will never be absolutely accurate, as it is working on vary comPlicated equation. But it will be good enough for what you need.
If you find the generator is starting too early, change the setting, if too late, change the setting.
If you are cycling between 50-75% SOC and "full", you will be doing OK. When I say "full", I mean the point at which the tail current setting stops the generator.
Most of us do this manually
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Hi Heidi,
I've sent you a PM with a number.
Thanks
Is it a secret? So far I've been able to DIY any electrical stuff, but there will come a day
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When I remove a cable from a battery, I tape the end up with insulating tape... Black for negative and red for positive. This way, they don't get the chance to short to the hull or other cables, or a battery - I think, and hope
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If you read the original post again, you will see that he is connected to a mains hookup
Roger
You are, of course, correct
But in a later post says she hasn't used the battery charger since March..... which confused me into thinking it wasn't permanent access to shore power. Seems she is choosing to rely on solar, and to not use the battery charger, whilst using shore power to run her 240V stuff.
It looks like the 135W of solar has managed to just about keep her going since March, butthe batteries have gradually drained, to the point where it is noticeable by the red light on the controller, with only a bit of 12V usage.
Unless I've missed something else, the immediate solution to the problem is to plug the battery charger in, get them up to 100% then either trickle charge from the charger, or use solar until they are about 50% depleted, then charge them up to 100% with the charger on shore power. Which is what you have already suggested.
I think she was also querying whether there is something wrong with the batteries.... The answer is maybe, maybe not. But if she allows them to continue depleting, there will be.
Chris: I agree that 135W of solar could provide about an average of 50Ah per day in late Spring, Summer, but the OPs usage could be up to double that. Which both you and Roger have suggested.
With a 440Ah bank, a deficit of say, 4 Ah per day would empty them in 110 days.... e.g. April May June July or so.
Like Mr. Micawber said. 50Ah in, 49Ah out = happiness, 50 Ah in, 51Ah out...........
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Thanks Chris, this is excellent information. I have no TV but use my laptop for a few hours every weekday evening. When I say red, amber and green lights I'm referring to those on the Morningstar controller. Yes I have 4 110Ah batteries and use normal stuff like LED lights and computer, pumps. No microwave, TV, toaster or hairdryer. I'll get a voltmeter as a first step.
Many thanks.
To be blunt, if you don't have access to regular shore power, you need to run your engine, or get a generator, to charge your batteries. Wind and solar are OK for topping up the last 10 or 15% but, unless you have an enormous bank of solar and/or wind, they will rarely keep up with normal daily use.
It's not good practice to use the engine regularly when moored, so a generator. IMHO Honda Eu are best, but you can buy a Kippor for not much money. A 1Kw would probably be enough for you.
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Deleted - repeated post ???
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"Full" is about 12.7/12.8V, so you would expect them to drop gradually from the charging voltage. They should settle around 12.7V and, if they do, they're pretty much full.
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Hello all I was just wondering if anyone is using interactive maps using gps, your views would be grate
Ly appreciated.
Which app do you men?
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Where is the boat? +1 for Steve Hands at Hands on Marine.
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Why would that be? (not being argumentative, just a genuine query)
If you are on board and need to let go in a hurry, it's easier if you have control of the lines from on board.
e.g. If said youths are attacking you, you may not want to get closer to them than you need to.
In a marina in bad weather where the pontoons are bouncing up and down, it may not be possible to get off the boat, (more appropriate in a tidal marina).
If you want to use a line as a slip line, it's easier to set it up from the boat.
On my boat, it's hard to get to the bow from the boat because of the cratch arrangement, so I actually secure the bow line ashore if I think I may want to leave in a hurry.
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I'm sure I read a thread here a month or so ago where the consensus was that using a centre line for mooring was dangerous. The consensus centred around the fact that the centre line would tip the boat in a variety of circumstances - one was if the water level rises significantly. I recall it making great sense at the time, and I stopped using a tight centreline for mooring, and mostly avoiding its use.
This current thread doesn't seem to consider the practice dangerous. I am now confused
Spooky - jelunga must have been typing as I was!
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If you leave your boat for, say, 4 days, and you average a couple of amps for 8 hours a day, you get 64Ah. Which is about 12% of your bank. If you can use a generator and/engine to get up to 90%, your bank will be full when you get back on board.
I have a 70A inverter charger - if I let the batteries fall to about 12.1V, I can get about 140Ah during about a 3 hour run of the generator. This probably leaves about 60Ah bring needed to bring my 330Ah bank up to 100%, which I'm hoping my 100W panel will achieve in 3 or 4 days, after I've fitted it next week. In fact, I probably won't let the batteries fall so low once the solar is fitted.
Winter might require a bit more thinking, but solar is almost certainly an improvement for trickle charging whilst not on board.
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AFAICT you can buy a lot of nice narrow boat for £45k to £50k. In fact, I think you can buy a new, albeit basic, boat for about £1,000 per foot.
For almost £50k in a second hand boat a bit over 50ft, I would be expecting almost new, 4 or 5 years old, and pretty much perfection in terms of condition and fit out.
You can always turn your money into boat..... Much harder to tun your boat back into money.
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The advice given was "Check fuel tank for crud that will block filters and if bad pay to have the fuel polished" which is good advice.
Cheers
Howard
You are, of course, correct. That'll teach me to read the question fully! Apologies!
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Ah, but Alan and Mel have just bought the boat, unless it's brand spanking new, they'll have no idea whatsoever about the state of the fuel in the tank
Finding out it's dirty in the middle of a river is no place to find out!
And unless they get a good heavy anchor, chain and rode in the next few days - they shouldn't be going on the river at all!
I agreed about the anchor and chain for rivers.
Given that they have mentioned Shipley as an alternative for their 1st trip, it seems that getting to Ripon quickly may not be crucial, even if it is their home point, and they will want to get there eventually.
If my assumption is correct, and the trip to Shipley is on "normal" canals, where the worst that can happen if you breakdown is you tie up and fix things, then Shipley might be the sensible option.
Does everyone who buys a 2nd hand boat need to get the fuel polished? I've heard it mentioned if a bug problem or similar is suspected, but never as a precaution, without evidence of an actual related problem.
I agree about setting out your stall, but where do you stop?
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Just a guess, as I do not know the instrument, do the terminals have numbers?
If they do.............................. it is just a matter of reading numbers, looking at the colour of the cable in the terminal and tracing where the cable should go.
What do Mastervolt say? Given the time that's gone by, it must be worth a call to their technical help line... Whatever they might call it.
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Two rather frightening posts - cant recall ever considering having fuel "polished" in about 25,000 miles offshore over the years. Agree about the anchor and chain on rivers.
Is there an alternative route that is less demanding and less frightening?
Boatman Stove - removing collar?
in Boat Building & Maintenance
Posted
The collar I'm talking about is right on top of the stove, at the bottom of the flue.
Bizzard - it was definitely not welded to the stove..... It was fire cemented top and bottom, as well as quite a bit of rope/ fibre between collar and flue. I think it is sitting over something that comes out of the top of the stove... Which is probably the welded bit you're talking about.