blackrose

Yeah... but on the other hand McDonald's sell a fair few burgers... 🍔

No not necessarily. I know people who've done it relatively cheaply using the same system I've been trying to install. Lots of people have done it using just a LA buffer battery and a B2B charger. I've lived on 2 boats for about 23 years and I've always believed the more systems you have for heating, hot water and electricity generation the better. So while it's certainly useful to be able to run the engine to charge the batteries, especially when moving, in this case the cost and effort of doing that has begun to outweigh the potential benefits.

Is that especially cheap? I'm not sure what the API specs on this are? Varol Lubricants - Varfleet Advanced SDX 15w40-20L (1PC) - ACEA E7 - Fleet Engine Oil https://amzn.eu/d/hBo6VWq

Well as it turned out you were right. Although other people have done what I've been trying to do without any agg.

I think if I was doing this lithium installation again, knowing what I now know I wouldn't even bother with alternator charging. In my case it's cost far too much money and been too much effort for too little potential return. Apart from perhaps in the depths of winter, my lithium domestic batteries will be charged up at around 75-85%+ just from the solar. In winter I can use my generator/battery charger once every couple of weeks, so I don't actually need to run the engine to charge the batteries, whether I'm moving the boat or not. In fact, if I ever do get this setup sorted out it's switching off alternator charging manually (using the B2B charger/Victron app) while running the engine that I need to be more concerned about in order not to overcharge the lithiums. The lithium batteries were effectively a drop in replacement when it came to configuring the MPPT and the battery charger, and to be clear these batteries are fantastic as is the new Victron BMV712 battery monitor which thanks to Nick's generous help automatically limits solar charge to the batteries. However, despite following all the advice the alternator charging setup has been a royal PITA. I appreciate that using anything other than a £800 Wakespeed alternator regulator for this purpose is a kind of bodge so I wouldn't advise anyone to take the route I've taken. If this new alternator doesn't solve the issue I will cut my losses, put it down to experience and be selling a Victron XS Orion 50A B2B charger in the For Sale & Wanted section.

I might get it repaired if it's not too expensive and then keep it as a spare. I wouldn't feel right selling it when I think there may be something wrong with it.

...the rudder sticks out at the back beyond the stern about 17”

Yes the last few years I've been buying from a dealer called Housefuel. They're cheaper but the best quality stuff I bought from them is very ashy Yes I've been using them for the last few years. Just not sure about the quality of their fuel.

I've ordered one of these https://amzn.eu/d/b9G7AWT Mainly because if it's not right I can just return it FOC to Amazon. Apart from mountings and pulleys I assume it will be electrically compatible with my existing alternator and I can just swap the connections over.

I'm between Wellingborough and Peterborough and I often go into Northampton so I can get to Braunston ok. Thanks

Thanks 👍 This one looks like mine. https://ebay.us/m/ZSzpYa And there is this one on Amazon. https://amzn.eu/d/b9G7AWT Which one looks better?

This is the alternator.

Ok thanks I'll just buy a new alternator. Any tips on finding one with the correct pulleys & mounting configuration?

Is it worth me taking the alternator apart or just buy a new alternator? Is it going to be easy to find the correct field diodes and how much will I spend on 3? Presumably they're cheap and readily available? I think I can buy a 75A A127 for about 60 quid

Just changed the regulator. I thought that had worked as it wasn't going above about 14v but as soon as I disabled charging on the Orion XS (as I'll need to do when my lithium batteries are getting full) the voltage on the buffer battery jumped up to 14.7v. It's that high at idling and slightly lower (14.6v) at 1000rpm. Why on earth is a Lucas A127 with no boost system in place putting out 14.7v? I guess I'm taking the alternator apart next. I can't help thinking that's what blew my battery up last time. The transit bung didn't help. Will I have damaged that sealed battery taking it up to 14.v for half a minute?

Yes I hate having to lift 25kg bags these days... ECoal ? Ok. I'd mistakenly assumed that must be an eco-friendly type where they'd replaced the dirty part with something they didn't burn.

It'll break your arm with it's wing! 😋

I'm thinking about ordering a tonne of coal to get a summer discount. Homefire is offering the following brands with "Homefire Smokeless" being their top of the range followed by "Homefire Ovals" They have quite a wide range of smokeless fuels, most of which I've never tried. So which would you go for?

Yes, I'll try a new regulator first and if it still produces a high voltage I'll follow the steps above and take the alternator apart. Thanks I've just found a brand new regulator in my box of electrical bits. Must have been in there for nearly 20 years! I'll fit it now...

Narrowboat removal? You mean narrowboat haulage or boat movers on the water? The other thing you were looking for as others have said was hard standing, not storage. It's important to try to get your terminology right, not just for clarity but also because in my experience when some of these tradespeople hear you use incorrect terms they'll be quietly laughing and some might even see it as an opportunity to overcharge a newbie.

Thanks Tony. From experience with similar sealed LA Hancook batteries and communication with a supplier several years ago, they can safely go to 14.6v. I'm just being extremely cautious because if it was 14.6v shortly after start-up I was worried that it might climb higher. It could be as you say, that because they're well-charged they're going straight into "absorption". I wasn't able to measure current going into the battery but next time I will put a clamp meter over the cable from the alternator. Also as it's the buffer battery for my lithium bank I'm not able to discharge it. I've taken a regulator out of an alternator before so I'm confident in replacing that, but I've never taken an alternator apart. I imagine springs and carbon brushes flying everywhere? Thanks, I'll have a look online. Ok thanks, so I was right to get rid of it. 👍 Would this one be ok? It doesn't specify max voltage. https://ebay.us/m/OMkqAC

I've completely removed my old Sterling alternator regulator but the 70A Lucas A127 alternator is still putting out 14.62v, as measured at the new sealed lead acid battery terminals. That seems a bit high to me. My understanding is that the internal regulator on an A127 should limit voltage to 14.2v or a very maximum of 14.4v. The new battery was already at 12.7v when it was delivered, so pretty well charged and once I saw the high voltage from the alternator I switched off the engine so it was only charged for 10 or 15 mins. After blowing a battery up previously and spending days clearing up the mess I'm really conscious that I don't want to do that again. If the A127 regulator has failed I can replace it, but it's made me wonder if I should have left the Sterling regulator in place on the basis that if the internal regulator failed it would prevent a high voltage getting to the battery? So I'm wondering what to do now? Buy/fit a new A127 regulator. Re-fit the old Sterling battery boiler?

Agreed, but you can get pretty close and you don't need a recessed area in the shaft between the thread and the flat face.

I think the temp sensor is being picked up by the VE. Smart network as it says it's receiving voltage and temperature data. I'm not sure what else could be transmitting temp? If that's the case that's all I need to know and I don't need to get into it with the passcode.

They do, but for some reason that specification isn't disseminated to their customers with the product information. You have to go looking for it yourself on their website. I think it would be weaker than threaded part because it's wider than any part of the thread of the same diameter. Which is precisely why it sheared at that point. If a thread extends the full length of a bolt or doesn't prevent one from tightening it.