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Showing results for tags '2 pack'.
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Hello. I'm in the process of buying a 57' trad through a reputable marina in Cheshire. I had my survey done this week and am waiting to get the report within the next week or so. I called by at the end to meet the surveyor and get a run down of the main issues, so I already know that the hull will need shot blasting back to the steel to get rid of corrosion that's taken hold under the blacking paint shoddily applied in the past. The marina are quoting £3,173.76 to shot blast and repaint with a 2-pack epoxy. This seems excessive. They break it down as: £1,767 shot blasting (£31/ft) £1,406.76 painting (£24.68/ft) Do people think this is a fair price? I'd really appreciate it if anyone has experience of these sorts of costings. I've already lost a fair amount of faith in the marina after my experience of arranging a survey. They offered to arrange a full survey for me at £856.60, but I chose to arrange something myself. It turns out I commissioned the same surveyor they were going to use, but the survey cost me £595. So they were going to add £261.60 on top, which is a 44% mark up! So I'm wondering if they're applying the same mark up to the shot blast and repaint. This would make the original prices something like: £1,227.37 shot blasting £977.15 painting £2204.52 (total) Does that seem more like what people would expect? Many thanks.
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Thinking ahead a little to the 30 year survey of my hull. At present it has a 2 pack epoxy zinc coating, 2 coats, onto bare steel and 6 to 8 coats of 2 pack epoxy black. This is all Sherwin Williams epoxy, originally from Leigh's paints of Bolton. The base plate is uncoated. This was done 20 years ago and apart from touching up scrapes it has had little attention over the years, just another coat of the black every 6 or 7 years. The coatings are in excellent condition with no flaking or bubbling. The zinc seems to be well bonded to the steel and has done a great job in preventing rusting. So when it comes to the insurance inspection I am loath to have to grind of loads of patches from the sides for the ultrasonic thickness test. The question is, can this testing be done without destroying the coatings? Has the equipment developed to the extent that it can test through the coatings?
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So I have just *TODAY* bought my first narrowboat. Super excited to get on the water! The surveyor was impressed with the steel, saying it was impeccable condition... largely because the hull was shot blasted and had a very good layer of 2-pack epoxy put on when it was only 2 years old (it's now 17). The surveyor thought that after the first epoxy layer it then then been blacked with bitumen. Meanwhile the previous owner said that this was not the case it's always been re-epoxy'd.. clearly without the shot blasting each time. I've no reason to doubt the previous owner, and a plausible explanation seems to be that the boat has never had any bitumen, but the subsequent coats of epoxy (after the first one) were not adhering very well (perhaps the old surface wasn't being prepared properly?) I'm not sure whether to just get it jet-washed and then put normal bitumen blacking on (this was the surveyors suggestion, an approach he was keen on and thought was sensible) or whether to try and get the epoxy re-done properly... thoughts?! Any input appreciated!
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End of this month I'm going to DIY paint my hull; I decided to go for epoxy. I've found already some valuable info here and elsewhere (I know I have to strip off the blacking to bare metal). As I've a few (related) questions, I've organised it a bit, so you can refer to the numbering if you want!: 1. So, first of all, I was wondering what is known about the quality (&price) between different types and brands of epoxy. Some brands I found so far are Sigmacover 300, Jotamastic 87, Hempadur (45143/45141), Interzone 954. (Are there any other important ones to take into account?) 2. I'm further curious if anyone has advice about these particular treatments I found in the forum: a) coal tar epoxies ("for off shore splashzone use") b) epoxy over zinga (http://www.zinga-uk.com) c) vinyl blacking (Leighs Resistex M535) 3. I also have a few other related questions: a) Are all epoxy-paints self-priming? b) How many coats should (better) be applied? There seems to be consensus on 4..? c) What about the base plate, I suppose it should be simply included in the job, right? It seems some people don't... d) What's the best way to deal with rust? Scaling down to bare steel and painting over, or applying rust converter fist? e) Are metal putties advised or to be avoided? Thanks! ~ K
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