canute

Thanks gentleman, Good point about size of exchanger, I was also assuming that the common 24kw would be more than sufficient, if lagged. My inspiration for considering the reduction of wasted engine heat came from an article some years ago, published in one of the waterways magazines, whilst I can’t remember the article verbatim I’m sure that the exchanger was an Alde model installed in the calorifier return, thus ensuring that no heat was dissipate through the skin tank, because until the closed calorifier loop had done it’s work heating up the DHW and the newly installed exchanger, the thermostat would remain closed. My assumption was, that transferring heat from this loop would just prolong the opening of the engines thermostat, thus avoiding any heat losses through the skin tank until such time that the calorifier and heating were running at a temperature higher than the thermostat opening temperature. I take your point about engine running temperature, so thank you for that. The information so far is very informative “you can never have to much information”. If there’s anyone who can help me with the switching of an Eberspacher, water circulation pump, without the unit calling for heat, I will be most grateful. regards,

Nicknorman, Many thanks for replying to my post, perhaps I should have elaborated, we rarely use the diesel heating (Eberspacher) on our boat, even in winter, the boats main source of heating is via a solid fuel stove. My plan was to try and limit burning solid fuel on days that we were cruising and/or running our engine (Beta 43) to charge batteries by using wasted heat from the engine to space-heat the cabin. I may stand corrected, but I was of the understanding that, until the engines thermostat opens (ie engine at running temperature) water does not circulate through the skin-tank, and that at the point the thermostat does open, l am metaphorical speaking, dumping my hard earned £££‘s into the canal via the skin-tank and onto towpath via the exhaust, although I didn’t think about any heat-losses into the Eberspacher this will be negligible given that currently, all residual heat is dissipate overboard anyway. I understand that the opening of the engines thermostat will be delayed initially if the flat-plate heat exchanger is transferring heat into the C/H loop, however I should have made it clear, that my intention is to switch on the C/H pump at the point the temperature gauge reached its nominal engine running temperature. Is running an engine cooler detrimental? Also to clarify the Eberspacher Does Not have an engine heating loop as in a ‘truck’ installation, it is stand-alone C/H only (space heating radiators and a second calorifier loop). Further comments most welcome. Regards,

Hi boating folks, I would like to install a Flat-plate heat exchanger, heated via my calorifiers (Surecal) engine coil return pipe (primary heat), to transfer heat (secondary heat) into the vessels central heating (C/H) system. My query is “can I utilise the pump (ie run the pump only) of my Eberspacher Hydronic 10 (2009 model) to circulate the C/H system?” There have been various discussion in past issues of boating magazines, questioning why boat builders don’t install this sort of system, which could heat a boats (Narrowboats) accommodation in winter using residual heat from the engine that would otherwise be wasted through the exhaust system, obviously it goes without saying that the pump would only be switched on when cruising in colder weather, heat the calorifier as normal and essential heating the radiators for free! Well almost for free! Any help will be appreciated, incidentally on pages 17 & 18 of the installation manual there is an additional relay “(2.5.18) Switch-over relay for water circulation system, to be fitted by customer if required” could this be what is required, unfortunately no other information is provided? regards,

Can I swop-out my existing battery bank? I am proposing to replace my existing 24vdc 390Ah battery bank (6No: Trojan C20 130Ah) with Leoch Pure Lead Carbon (PLH+C) batteries; 4No: Leoch PLH+C 150FT (12V C10 150Ah) These will be series into pairs and connected in parallel to give a revised battery bank of 2S 2P 24v C20 360Ah. My current system is charged mainly when cruising, by a 24v 80Amp engine (Beta 43) mounted dedicated alternator and 4 x 100w Solar panels via a Victron MPPT 70/15 solar charger, also via a "Victron 24v/2000w/50A MultiPlus" while docked and aboard. The Victron MultiPlus requires setting-up, with the correct voltages for the different SoC's being programmed into the unit. The dip-switch setting options that are programmable for a 24v battery bank are as follows; Option 1 Absorption voltage 28.8v Float voltage 27.6v Storage voltage 26.4v Absorption time 8hrs Option 2 Absorption voltage 28.2v Float voltage 27.6v Storage voltage 26.4v Absorption time 8hrs Option 3 Absorption voltage 29.4v Float voltage 27.6v Storage voltage 26.4v Absorption time 5hrs Option 4 Absorption voltage 30.0v Float voltage 27.6v Storage voltage 26.4v Absorption time 6hrs I understand from reading the Victron manuals that other parameters could possibly be selected, via software downloads, the inverter/charger being configured via a laptop? After, over six months of correspondence with the battery supplier I have been given the following; "For your reference and only in general the recommended charge settings for PLH+C Series for float applications are floating stage 13.62V, absorb stage 14.1V and equalize stage 14.4V". I'm assuming that Option 2 is my setting, however, quite frankly with over the six months of toing and froing I've lost all confidence in the multitude of answers. I just need to know if my alternator is suitable (B43 KC K22178 200-05383 28V 80A ALTERNATOR IA1150 11.203.275 AAN5171 28V 80A) and what setting to select on the Victron MultiPlus and MPPT controller if this needs to be specific. Alternator enquiries with manufacturer "Iskra", say check with battery manufacturer and vice versa with other enquiries. Unfortunately Victron Lead Carbon batteries do not fit the space and I also want to avoid the topping-up regime of the flooded WLA, I'm also assuming that the 30Ah drop in capacity will be compensated for by the greater DoD and the increased charge acceptance. Although the stated number of cycles is far greater for PLC's I will be more than happy if they last as long as the existing Trojan WLA, given the savings on engine running and battery maintenance. Incidentally the boat is gas-free and a 7KvA Onan generator is used for the heavier loads, cooking, washing machine, etc. Apologise that the enquiry is a bit long winded, but wanted to include all the information, and convey, almost a like for like capacity swop-out. Hoping for some shorter concise responses; Charge settings need to be: XX XX XX. Alternator: FINE or New alternator XX required.