The Commodore
-
Posts
211 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Blogs
Store
Posts posted by The Commodore
-
-
I find it hard to believe that you can lose 2 gallons of hydraulic fluid from the motor and not see any evidence of where it is leaking. I would be inclined to run the engine a fairly high revs in gear (forward and reverse) and look closely all around the motor and hoses, and expect to see a least some dripping.
Not a drop in 18mts. I have done as you suggest the last time this happened and not a sign of a leak. It is very frustrating knowing that there is an issue and having to always carry the hydraulic fluid in wait for the next time.
-
Thanks for that Tony, not at boat so can't do pictures, it is a broads bounty carribean with the 3.8 BMC,there are 3 hoses, 2 large 1 small.
Are these pump a servicable item, is the shaft seal a diy job ?
-
Thanks for that murflynn but nothing like that visible, could this PRV be built into the motor and there be just an outlet.
-
1
-
-
I would know what a PRV looks like on a heating system but that type of device is definetly not on my system, could someone link me to what a prv on a hydraulic system would look like ?
-
Hi Martin, I can see nothing like a valve anywhere on the system.
-
Hi All,
I have a BMC engine that drives a hydraulic pump that goes onto power an hydraulic motor that drives the prop.
The issue i have is that on 3 occasions over the past few years i have lost drive and on inspection found that i had lost all (2 gallons) the hydraulic fluid into the bilge, its obviously happening at the motor as its in a seperate bulkhead and thats where the fluid collects, hoses and connections fine and no sign of leakage on motor, i refill system and everything is fine until it happens again, 18months since last dump.
Any thoughts please.
-
Well in frustration and with nothing to loose i went at this myself, i firstly noticed that a touch on the fan blades of the blower fan would see the heater roar into action, brushes!, after a murderouse time in getting the blower motor apart (combustion fan removal) sure enough, brushes were knackered, made up a set from a set of washing machine brushes sanded down with a sheet of 400grit paper, decide to replace bearings whilst there, 626zz bearings, all back together and awaiting refit.
I think the error code E33 that indicates an issue with fan speed pointed me in the write direction, great job in the diognostics on these controlers.
-
i believe initially it was from an ambulance.
-
801 should give 5 historic fault codes. Manual sent.
Ok, so I fitted the 801 and cleared the faults ( 12 / 33 )and away it went, for around 20 minutes, then again it cuts out with a e52- safety time exceeded ?
heater seems to be running normally but starts to slow down too soon, but I notice that the pump is still running full belt, then it stops.
-
Many thank.
-
Will PM you, and I will take that advice i have sorced a 801 on ebay. If i fitted the 801 now would it give me the dianosis of this fault.
-
A stab may help, please.
-
Hi NMEA, Thanks for replying.
Im honestly not sure at all as the unit is used by other members of my family when im not around so im not sure how many times it has failed. It seemed to me that it last failed when the rheostat had been turned up on a couple of occasions, the stat started blinking and it all shut down, now as soon as it is switched on it just blinks, i have checked power and fuse and all good. i am prity sure this happened to me some years ago and this linked connection cured the problem, i can't be 100% sure as my brain cells are not what they used to be.
Any help on this would be greatly appreciated.
-
Hi All ,
Eberspacher problem, after overheat a few times the unit has now gone to lockout, my problem is the control is a Rheostat, i have had issues in the past with lockout but had managed to find info on the net explaining how by linking across 2 conections on the Rheostats connector block it would reset the ECU, i unfortunetly did not take note of which connection it was and cannot now find the information, anyone assist me please ?
-
Just to add, a 3.9kg propain bottle has a recomended offtake of 7.5kw so one would need to sum up total gas consumption requirments before buying a bottle.
-
Bollox. C'mon, get a grip.
Same as any other appliance. Incomplete combustion.
MtB
Which will cause spilage and the spilage sensor to operate.
I've finished with this pissing up the wall contest, take it away Boilerman.
-
Do they?
The spillage detection device mentioned by The Commodore is a heat sensitive switch that detects hot flue gas spilling out into the cabin and disconnects the thermocouple circuit, shutting off the gas supply.
I've not seen a vitiation sensing device (posh name for it) (VSD) on a Morco yet...
MtB
What is the effect of Oxigen depletion on a water heater ?
-
Can you explain that further.
I know they have oxygen depletion sensors, but is that the same thing as detecting any fumes getting where they should not be?
On the Morco the Oxygen depletion device is the Spilage sensor, on other appliances it could be a type of pilot.
Sorry typo, it was D61b
-
Getting picky again, there is no such thing as a 'conventional flued' appliance. Appliances are classed as 'flueless', 'open flued', or 'room sealed'.
Best to get the terminology right when offering gas advice...
MtB
Picky indeed! i'm old school and most Gas installers would know i was talking "opened flue"
-
D61e Electronic ignition (battery), 61d piezo ignition.
-
if it is not properly set up, fumes can get into the cabin - which is why the BSS testers do something called a "spill test" to satisfy themselves that the exhaust gasses are going outside.
All Morco Conventional flued water heaters now have Spilage Safety Devices as standard, as do all manufacturers these days
-
It might be room sealed but the vertical flue can't be shortened, so may protrude to far in many installations and it is fan-flued so you are dependent on the inverter for a safety function. A horizontal flue might work if you can hack the continuous requirement for 240 V and modify the cabin side where the flue passes through. Thread here on fitting www.canalworld.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=24807.
Seems to me that an OE fit could be OK but retro fit ain't going to be easy.
N
It is a fanned flue appliance and requires a minimum 10cm of flue or can be extended to 4m, that measurment is from the top of the heat exchanger so in actual fact dependent on the height you fit it at you could have a flue as low as 10cm, fitting horizontal flue also allows for the same sideways movement. Power consumption is a mear 35w when running, zilch when not in use. It is the water heater that is recommended for boats and the safety factor should overcome price and possible installation dificulties.
-
The Morco F11E has Auto ignition, it is more money but it has a higher flow rate of 11ltrs/min and is also room sealed and therefore safer, it really is the water heater we should all be using these days.
-
Hi All,
I have the above outboard that i use in a tender, end of last year it was not reving at full speed when on load, i have replaced the oil, plugs and have stripped the carb and cleaned it, all now reassembled but the idle screws are out of adjustment, i have no idea which screw is which and can't locate any help from Mr Google, anyone here any idea whats what on this carb ?
Thanks.
Hydraulic problem
in Boat Equipment
Posted
Got back to the boat today and got pictures, unfortunately have no clue how to get them on here, I did find a data badge on the motor and identified it as a Denison M6 1" with a smaller badge indicating its "Dual rotation", does that help ? is it serviceable by myself ?