-
Posts
92 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Blogs
Store
Posts posted by DandGNWales
-
-
We are just cruising our newly purchased project 55 foot Narrow Boat Home. I will be stripping out the cabin side and roof wood, so I assume I would glue some wooden battens to the hull metal then screw or nail the ash or oak faced ply to the battens, so if I have it correct what is the best glue to use, as I want this to be a one time upgrade
-
I tried to drain the engine oil on our 1.5 BMC but after many minutes and lots of pumping action I only managed to suck out approx 1/2 litre of old engine oil.
I suspect the pump seal may be at fault, so are these still available or will I have to source a new pump ?
-
Well glad my simple question has generated so mush response !. I will paint ours to match what will be our new colour (black.cream) but after 2 breakdowns in 2 days trying to get our baby from loughborough to Chirk, we may get the best value for money pushing our boat home punt style with our pole lol. If you see a rough looking green boat with 2 border collies on the stern give us a cheery wave and wish us luck, at Rugeley visitor moorings near Tesco at the mo fingers crossed will be back on our way in the morning.
It's also weird that never before buying our Davison Brothers boat had we ever seen another, there is a 1973 version about 2 boat lengths away with a broken gearbox plus we have seen another 2 others on our journey
-
I never thought of ali scaffold poles, but to late now I have bought my nice Ash one lol, came in very handy today when I could not get Willoughby reversed back in her berth, I also like Neils idea of painting 1 foot sections different colours, be good practise with the brushes ready for her re-paint in the spring, or if enough coffers left after the re-fit, may book a dry dock to do it this winter if the dry dock has some form of heating.
-
Unless you want to confuse in the future you really need to sort this out. IF you have a car type water pump as you said earlier then it is not direct raw water cooled but has two circuits. Again IF you have a car water pump you should also have a brass raw water pump because it is indirect raw water or heat exchanger cooled. I not that you did not supply the photos as asked so we can still not see which you have.
Unless you resolve this you will be in the hands of the engineer because you will get confusing advice from here - people will advise for the wrong type of system.
As far as the mud box is concerned the answer is "when it needs it" and that depends upon the water you are boating on/through. On some shallow and very weedy waters it could be several times a day on deep clean rivers it could be days or weeks between cleaning. Basically keep an eye on the raw water discharge and if it reduces clean the mud box. If it is easy to do then look every day. However reduced raw water flow can also be problems with the raw water pump, blocked heat exchangers/oil coolers and hoses. This is why you need to really understand your system.
Hi Tony,
Thanks for your reply, the marine Engineer was very busy so just told me it is canal water cooled and also has a tank with antifreeze for the heat exchanger. I only have my camera phone and as it is very murky here and does not have a flash I don't think the pictures would be of any value, but once I find my proper camera, I will take some pictures to finally know 100% what we have.
It was my confusion, the water pump is a big brass type run from a separate belt to the alternator, and from looking the engine also has a normal car type water pump that flows the water/antifreeze mix around the system.
I am taking her up the river later, so when I have the engine covers up will give the camera phone a go and see how they turn out, thanks again for your help, I do really want to bottom this out.
Cheers
Geoff
-
Hi
I've painted both my long shaft and cabin shaft, this was 12 years or so ago and never had a problem. The long shaft is in raddle red while the shorter one is in coach paint. Go for it, they should last for years.I'll 're do them over winter.
Cheers
Dave
Thanks for your reply Dave, I will break out the paint then and give it the once over
-
Well just to update the post, had the marine engineer in today and as thought our baby is raw water cooled, so my next question is how often do you clean the mud box out ?
-
Hi All,
Just bought a new Ash boat pole, I have read that you should not paint them as they can rot under the paint, but mine looks very vunerable and I suspect needs some kind of treatment, so do I oil, varnish or just paint it to make it last the next few years?
-
Hi Arthur,
Thanks for your reply, I will fit them and see how we get on then. Had the marine Engineer here today so he has sorted my fuel pipes and changed them to the ones to pass the BSC so all going well,
-
Hi All,
Just taken some roof lining down from our cabin and the shell could do with a good coat of Paint, I also need to blast and re-paint the exterior roof, so would an etch primer or the old red lead paint if still available be any good ?, or are there some specialist other products on the market ?
-
I've used a fuel filter conversion from ASAP supplies on a 1.8 rather than a 1.5. I can't imagine they are wildly different.
The only issue I recall was that when I tried to use all the pipes connecting to it as they already were, with olives on them, the actual recesses that the pipes go into were shorter than on the original filter, so the olives would not come up against the surface they were supposed to mate with.
I simply shortened the amount of each pipe projecting beyond each olive, and it all then went together just fine.
I can't see why the installed filter should not work exactly the same as what it replaced - it's still in exactly the same place.
Not tried an oil filter conversion - my 1.8 is spin on already, although it is in a pig awful place to get to it, and changing it is always guaranteed to create a God-dam mess!
Thanks for your reply Alan, seen as I have bought them I may as well try and fit them, then if they do cause me problems at least I will still have the original bits to put back on, but on a cold day as today and seeing the news is saying arctic blasts are on the way, I think I will leave it till the summer
-
I have just bought 2 spin on conversion kits 1 oil & 1 Fuel, looking at the supplied conversion housing, it seems very good quality to me, but when I asked our marine engineer to fit them, he flatly refused, saying he has had loads of trouble after fitting them with leaks and the fuel filter draining back etc.
So are these kits a cone and I have bought a lame duck, or is he just to busy and is trying to put me off?
-
I like Alastairs suggestion of boards but this will prove to expensive so will go with 18mm ply and floor tiles in the galley and the thick laminate floor in the rest, and will go with 12mm hull side overlaid with 3mm Ash or Oak Faced Ply and possibly 6mm cabin sides and roof.
-
I much much prefer boards for the floor. Easier to fit (when you are going round awkward shapes) and you can lift them individually to inspect below.
Do you mean normal house floor boards ?
-
Thanks for your response. Will go with 18mm for the floor seeing as my beer to work rate is returning poor mpg and my waist is expanding yet again lol
-
We have posted lots of questions as newbie boat owners and the response has been great and has even saved us some hard earned, so don,t give up
-
Hi all, we are laying a new floor with marine ply my question is what size should I go for 12 or 18mm, also we are going with Oak or ash faced ply for the sides and roof so what would be the best size for that and as I have never done one before do you just fix with brass screws or glue as well.
-
Thanks again for your replies, I will get busy with the camera, there is a pump driven by the crank pully then another pully driving the alternator, will update with pix when back on board
-
Hi Richard,
Thanks for your reply, I have done a bit of web searching and I think I have a skin tank system, as the diagram I found for a skin tank system also cooled the gearbox, just like it does in ours, so if ours is skin tanked how often to you clean out the mud box ?
I will take some pictures, we have been just using our phones but need a flash to get a good pic then will let you guys fill me in, as I'm starting to panic for the winter lay up
-
I had a quick look at our boats water cooling system, it seems to have a form of large upright approx 6 inch square tank that you can take the top off and it is mounted verticaly in the engine bay, it also has what looks like a header tank with the usual radiator cap and when the engine is running it pumps water out of the exhaust, so is our engine canal water cooled ?
If so how do I winterize it and do you need an antifreeze mix in the header tank?
I will try and get some good pix when down with her again next week but any help would be great
-
Thanks very much for the info, did a few jobs and took her for a quick cruise to make sure she is running ok, but still loads to do, also worked out the beer has taken it's toll and I'm far to big to play in Narrow Boat Engine Bays, so need a good marine fitter to change the water pump and Alternator belts plus fit some new glow plugs so any suggestions ?
-
Hi,
We are off to do some more work on our boat later on, I think I have bought most things but just in case can anyone suggest a Chandlers Near to Meadow Farm Marina, Barrow Upon Soar Leicester
-
We have, one for ring main, one for charger, one for mains lights, single RCD up front.
- We only have one mains light, its never used, and only then because (because its there) the low voltage engine room lights are a bit naff for the job.
- Mains lighting is a very valid option if you plan to have an inverter running 24/7, although i would always retain a skeleton low voltage circuit, and/or twin inverters.
Cant see you needing any more, charger could be taken off the ring main, no real point it going for individual RCBOs as it basically is anyway!
Your limited to 16amp incoming, which should be protected at the bollard and/or before, and you cant really get any discrimination if you tried, certainly not on the ring main. Which is why new installations all have to have the 16amp 'bolloard mcb/rcd/rcbo' accessible and one per berth.
Are you having an inverter, if so, how does that integrate?
Daniel
I think we have bought the right unit then, so as it only has one leisure battery I will need to fit an Invertor so as we won't be running a washing machine but do have a 240 vac fridge so what size would I need ?, also what would I need to fit to get hot water from the engine?
-
We have all 240v lighting, triphosphor tubes run from a Victron, they are ecomical and give off loads of light.
I will look into them thanks for the info
Engine Oil Drain Pump
in BMC
Posted
Thanks for your reply Ditch crawler, I do have valve in the pipe, I have tried that and it's still the same