jessie

It's an EPEver Tracer MPPT, but I was mistaken. ? After reading the comments on here I checked and the inverter is wired straight to the batteries, the panels into the MPPT and the MPPT into the batteries. However it does look like it is the sensitivity of the Sterling inverter, apparently they have a fairly low high voltage cut off threshold. So the options seem to be: run appliances to use some of the power and bring it down, that seems to work sometimes; or lower the settings on the charge controller, but this requires a lead to attach to the computer so it's a job for another day when said lead has been sourced. I think i prefer the first option as this seems to allow for maximum use of the available sunlight as I only need the big inverter occasionally.

That's a really good point, I'll check that, thanks

No, one is for the 240 ring in the boat and the other just has its own socket The main inverter is connected straight to the battery, the other is connected to the battery and the charge controller, and works fine

Thanks for replying It is an MPPTcharge controller, and its reading for battery voltage is 13.9v. The small inverter that's attached to it works fine. I'll get hold of a voltmeter and measure directly from the batteries. I followed the instructions when I set up the charge controller. I'm wondering if the Sterling inverter also needs to go via the charge controller, but that was fitted by an electrician and I wouldn't know where to start or if the charge controller is suitable for such a large inverter.

❓ Good morning all, I'd be really grateful if the hive mind can help at all. My inverter is saying the batteries are over voltage, but only in daylight. I have a Sterling inverter charger, a 12v battery bank and all was good until I fitted solar panels. I fitted 3 x 275w panels via a smart charge controller. I also fitted a smaller inverter with just one socket via the same charge controller. The Sterling inverter now just beeps if there is any charge coming in from the solar. It works fine if I disconnect the panels, but that defeats the object. I'm assuming that the Sterling inverter is reading the input from the panels, rather than the output from the batteries, but no idea how to fix this...does anyone have any ideas? Any experience? I have spent a while on Google but not found anything useful.

Thanks BEngo, that's really helpful, I'll look into local stainless steel fabricators. J

Hi Everyone, Does anyone make back boilers to fit small stoves? Width would need to be less than 280mm. If not could I just use a zigzag of 28mm copper pipe inside the stove. I have access to a mag drill so cutting the holes should be relatively simple. I'm replacing my broken morso squirrel with back boiler with a slightly smaller 2nd hand cast iron stove and would like to fit a back boiler to it as I already have the pipe work and radiators. The squirrel boiler is just a little too large.

Thanks Gareth, that is useful to know. I fited the pump ages ago and can't remember the spec so i'll probably go for one that claims to be suitable for either. Interesting point Tony, i'll stick to 15mm, thanks.

I know this is an old topic but Mick, what did you fit in the end and was it satisfactory? I'm just about to fit a shower and have had advice both ways, high and low pressure, so would be interested to hear your results if you are still on the forum :-)

can anyone recommend a web site or book that explains quite specifically how to fit a solid fuel stove with a back boiler and a couple of radiators, preferably with diagrams. just got a morso squirrel with boiler and need to get it sorted before the weather gets any colder!